EScanlon

RIGHT HERE! Here's the URL for it, don't know if it will show up as a click through, but here goes: This is the URL for the page that describes and allows you to order the CD or get a Demo http://scarab.240z.org/cdrom.htm However, after getting a message from Mike, he lets me know that if you want to down load the Demo you need to use this link for the time being, he'll have it fixed in a couple days: http://www.240z.org/zcarcd/z-demo1.pdf I personally have the true blue Microfiche that requires the viewer. Although I used this for years while in the service, I will admit that it is a major PITA. I'm waiting for the accounting part of my marriage:rolleyes: to approve it but I'll be getting one on CD too. From what everyone says, much much easier and clearer.

There have been numerous reports on the little plastic bearing holder underneath the distributor base plate getting old, brittle and eventually cracking. This is true whether the distributor is point or electronic. The problem usually begins with a sticking advance as you are reporting. The new plates are available from Nissan. Sorry don't know the part number, I'll have to check the microfiche later, but the garage is currently in upheaval. Maybe someone else with access to their microfiche or if you have access to the cd microfiche available here then you can call Nissan and get the part new. If you let it go until it breaks, then you'll think that your car died and needs a complete engine overhaul.

In their Premiere issue Sport Z Magazine had an excellent article on replacing the fuel tank vent hoses. The author even went to the trouble of providing the part numbers from a McMaster Carr catalog. I found you can get all but one of the hoses from NAPA. The only hose you can't get is the 1.25" hose that goes from the top of the filler neck to the vapor recovery tank. The biggest problem you may encounter is in getting a couple of the hoses to effect the tight 180° turn. You can however, get metal springs in the right diameter to fit snugly inside the hose which will allow you to bend the hose without kinking it. It's most important to remember that the tank has three vent orifices that connect to the recovery tank. The recovery tank has 5 orifices. The extra two go to the filler neck and to the return line from the engine compartment. By plugging the lines at the recovery tank you've made it so that only so much gas can get into the tank before it starts compressing the air bubble above the gas. Additionally, you've also plugged one of the vent lines from the engine compartment. Don't know what that could / will do, you'll have to ask one of the engine guru's but you're taking a short cut that may lead to trouble down the road. Yes it is a pain to have to drop the tank to get to the hoses, but the end result should be a better smelling vehicle after filling your tank, and it will also allow you to clean under the rear deck and avoid any rust problems later. Hey, it's just my 2¢ worth.

Turbo Boxer: You didn't mention your abilities with regard to bodywork, mechanical, electrical etc. This, in my opinion, is a strong factor in deciding whether or not to get a less than perfect car. If you are totally ignorant on body working, I would pass on anything requiring pulling dents, replacing metal, repairing rust, broken doors, etc etc. The amount of money you would have to spend to get these items taken care of piece by piece in a body shop would put a nice down payment on a house, maybe even in the SF area. If you were to pick up one of these, I would recommend you take it right to the best body shop you can find and give them lots of money and carte blanche to effect whatever needs repairs etc. Expensive, you bet, but not as much as doing it a little at a time. Granted, if your budget doesn't mind $1k every other month for the next couple years, as opposed to $8k right now, then go for it. Mechanical and Electrical ability, again the same advice applies. Although with mechanical, you can find a good mechanic that will fix your car to what you want. However, if you are planning on doing an engine transplant, turbo install, Nitrous, oil cooler, etc etc, then you might have the same problem as with the body work above. Electrical experience? Sounds simple, well, unfortunately the Z cars are notorious for their electrical problems. Look at some of the posts here and at zcar.com and you will see that even some of the so called "guru's" are also baffled about some of the problems reported. Granted some of the people could use a course in how to write, let alone how to describe their problem. (Descriptions such as: Yesterday I got in my car, put the key in, turned it real SLOW, and all of a sudden PSSSSST!! and smoke came out of the fuse box area and the ignition. Now the car won't start, any ideas as to what could be wrong?) LOL The kind of experience you have will determine if you need to look at a car that has already had someone spend the time and money to get it past the trouble spots, or if you want to tackle a frame that needs metal replacing along several rust lines, a wire harness swap due to a bad stereo install as well as fixing an aborted turbo swap into a 240 while still maintaining the original 240 tach but yet using the 79 distributor. If you're looking to get into a Z quickly, and be able to drive it all over the place in a relatively short frame of time, i.e. like buy it now and be done with it this summer, then I would suggest you look around and get a car that has had a lot of work already done to it. The amount of money and TIME you will save in the long run will definitely offset your investment now. If however, you don't mind having it be a Garage Queen for weeks / months at a time, then go for restoring one.