EScanlon

You can confirm that it is the antenna switch by the color of the wiring. 2¢

Check your own gas pedal first. In my experience, most of the early (read to 73) Z's ALL had the same gas pedal with the EXCEPTION of the Automatic ones. If you look at the picture on e-Bay, look in the upper right, and you'll notice like a hole with a slot in a piece of metal. That's where the cable hooks up. The larger nylon washer I mentioned clips onto the metal and the cable runs freely inside the washer. FWIW Enrique

If I recall, you CAN get the complete Choke & Throttle Cable and lever linkage from MSA. Not sure about VB. I got mine from a boneyard. As far as how it connects, this is tricky as it is important to remember that the throttle is connected directly to the accelerator pedal. It connects to the TOP of the linkage so that when you PULL on the lever it also pulls on the lever that your foot PUSHES on. The mechanism is such that if you should push on the pedal you will not bind nor have the cable disconnect. The cable has the regular sheathing and end ball of lead. The cable goes through a nylon cable holder that clips onto the top of the acc. pedal. The cable holder keeps the cable attached to the pedal while you use the pedal normally. Then when you pull on the lever for the throttle the lead ball is too big to go through the hole in the holder, hence you pull on the lever. Just like if you were holding your foot on the pedal. If you should wish to accelerate more than the hand throttle is set for, that's no problem as the cable will just slip through the holder. FWIW Enrique

Few American cars had this to begin with, and even fewer survived the Dealer "prep" on this item (they removed them). Sadly, American's were not easily accustomed to a hand throttle and more problems and liabilities arose from it than it was worth. Although several folks refer to it as a "Crude Early 240Z Cruise Control", I've heard that it actually was supposed to be used in warming the engine up in cold climates. I just checked my owner's manual (U.S.) and no mention, nor illustration of it could be found. Maybe someone like Alan can help elucidate on this. 2¢

The recess below your arrow and ON the lampholder, if I recall right, is where you can use a very fine screwdriver to push in the tang on the contact for the bulb. You do this when you need to disassemble the bulb holder to clean the contact. The other possible "recess" isn't one. That's the hole with the green plastic in it. That's the melt pin to hold the bulb lens / mask to the body of the clock. Bambi already said it, you basically push the bulb holder to the side, not pull on the wires. 2¢

I don't recall a badge on the left either. I agree with Ian, more than likely a dealer added his nameplate to the car, although usually these were installed with double stick emblem tape. It's plausible that there was an "Automatic" nameplate, but if so, and my car is an Automatic and it doesn't have the holes (Transition Car between Series I and II, 1971), and I've not run into another one even in the boneyards. 2¢

You didn't mention which hoses, engine or fuel tank. However, if you check with Motorsport Auto or Victoria British you should be able to find some of them. One note, many of the hoses in the engine compartment can be purchased at your local Auto Parts Store. 2¢

Sadly, the cost of maintenance on a vehicle here in the U.S. of A. is not only exorbitant, but there are so many times that you get news such as: The flim flam pusher release valve was octupating the misenheimer relay which led to a carburating saturation of the thelapidator. It will only be $500 to get it as good as new, or for $150 we can tweek the phlegmoginator and it will get you by for another 2-3 thousand miles. Guess what gets done.... Additionally the stories abound of people taking their car in for a simple procedure, (change the oil, filter, air filter, and basics) only to have to return the car a week later because the disproportionator went completely hooey. Then, when you get THAT taken care of, a week later and something ELSE goes wrong. At 3-400 per visit it gets real tiring real fast. So people start to wonder, did my car suddenly turn into a lemon or are the mechanics at the dealer f*cking with me? Then let's not forget that there are an increasing amount of PARTS-REPLACER mechanics. These are the guys, who by virtue of the computerized training they received at the dealer, know that when computer error code 23 comes up you need to replace the engine piece by piece until the computer clears it. The true blue MECHANIC, the guy who would listen to your engine, sit there and rub grease into his chin and then announce: Bad Plug in number 3, and then rid your car of all it's evils, is, sadly, going the way of the horse drawn carriage. So if you find a good mechanic, PATRONIZE HIM. 2¢

Choke & Throttle Pull Screws---really odd size and I STILL can't tell you what it is. The nuts holding the instrument gauge inner workings to the housing. 4 or 6mm The Heater Control Panel Mounting Screws. Not only are they of an odd size, but their pitch is different as well. 4mm 1.25 (it's odd at that size) more to come.....

The clear headlight covers all come with the black weatherstrip trim. If you get a kit without it, then you got shorted. 2¢

Personally, I think you'd be pleased with the clear ones with the black vinyl trim. The Chrome ones like I have on my car may be no longer available. You'll need to ascertain that you CAN get them, then whether you want to spend that kind of money. As far as the tinted ones, you may want to check that you won't get a ticket for that. 2¢

Did you recently do some work under the dash? Or maybe on the engine side of the firewall where the speedo cable goes in. What you're describing sounds exactly like a sticking cable, whether because of lack of grease in the jacket or because the gear that's driving it has lost a tooth. 2¢

That picture is of my car. Those were the Original OEM Option as offered by Nissan. I bought mine through Zedd Findings, Charlie Osbourne out of Canada. Now, from what he tells me these were one of the last group out of Japan. Since you're in Melbourne it might be possible to still buy through there. If you should by chance find them, give me a PM as I might be interested in a second pair. Note, they aren't cheap. The lowest I've seen them listed (2 years ago) was $120.00 US each. I paid closer to $150 plus shipping and telegram fees. As far as the mounting, I'll post that in a follow up message. Enrique Scanlon

I'll post my vote this way: http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=2603&size=big&password=&sort=7&thecat=500 Enrique

Ok, are you volunteering to find out the final price and where the winning buyer calls home? I'd pay a penny to see that.

From what I can see in the pictures, it looks accurate for a 71. The console matches mine, the ashtray is forward of the shifter. No vent hatches is consistent with the c-pillar venting. Holes in the steering wheel consistent with the 71 model. Early 71's in the states had the solid steering wheel spokes, as they were "technically" 70 model cars. Don't forget that while the U.S. for the ~most~ part uses a Sep to Aug "Model" year, whereas Japan was using a Jan-Dec. As a result, the vehicles manufactured after September 70 were STILL 70 model vehicles. Due to the transit time and time to sale many were still being sold well into 71. Then when the new production for 71 started being imported, the car shows the changes, BUT then you have TWO variations for a 71 year Z. At least as far as the U.S. is concerned. Please note (especially :devious: Alan): I SPECIFICALLY said in the U.S., as some of these Year / Model / Spec anomalies are strictly of American manufacture and not because Datsun changed their model half way through. Ever heard of a 75 or 76 (and possibly more ) 260 ? They got them in Australia, Japan, and Europe, but NOT in the U.S.. As far as the car on e-Bay, if it is HALF as good as he describes, it is definitely worth it.....for someone in the Northeast. I don't think the cost of transporting it back to the Midwest or back to the Left Coast would be worth it in this case. I would expect it to go for about $4k West Coast and about $12k East coast. 2¢

George: "If it ain't broke, don't fix it." That's an Americanism for you. That is, the car works, you get good power and you don't get any arcing. Why muck with it? Just to prove that the resistance of your new wiring is close / same / different (and why) than what the book says? Don't forget that the specs on the car ARE 30+ years old. Has technology changed in that time period? Bottom line, if you see arcing in your spark plug leads....CHANGE THE LEADS. But I wouldn't go removing, testing, and replacing the leads JUST to check their value. 2¢

Yes, but just barely. It mostly depends on what size compressor motor you have. I have a 3hp 30 gallon and although it works, I wish it were both a bigger tank and more horse, to get the pressure back quicker. 2¢

If you look at the visor itself, right where the length of steel rod enters the body of the visor, you should spot a screw that seems to go THROUGH the visor but it doesn't, it's just on one side. this screw is the one Alfa is referring to. It tightens down a "clamp" of steel around the steel rod that goes through the body. If you can't see it when the visors are in the UP position, then lower them and look on the back side. 2¢

When I had my car to that point, I thought they would make EXCELLENT speaker mounts for an OUTRAGEOUS sound system. Can you imaine? A pair of Bose 901 located just behind the seats, or a pair their Acoustimass with the woofer in the spare tire well. Luckily, I didn't have the budget for a major high fidelity purchase. 2¢

Browse the forums first. I think you'll find that just checking on the older posts will more than answer your question as far as what to look for and where to look for. As far as to whether it is worth it to restore or not; If you are looking for an investment opportunity....forget it. If you are looking to work on a car, spend some money (and sometimes big $) in order to get it running just right and be able to drive it around and know people are looking at it somewhat enviously....go for it. Sadly, the cost of repairing, replacing, and repainting a car that needs it, at this point in time, makes it NOT a good return on investment. Figure you can spend up to $5-6k and STILL find items you wish had been taken care of. There will be some who will argue that for $5 to 6K they would expect the car to be perfect before they would buy. Well don't confuse EXPECTATIONS with ACTUAL SALES. You are much better off buying as complete and pristine a vehicle as you can. Even if that means spending more money. I recently saw a 71 Z Garage Queen. She'd been driven very little (less than 50k original) still had original tires, engine bay was pristine, no rust, interior was as close to perfect as you can imagine. The vehicle is for sale. He wants about $12k-$15k. Will he get it? Probably. Like I said, this car had never spent a night outdoors. Is it worth it? I think so. All you would have to do to this car is give it a wax job, and maybe a slight touch up on some of the interior silver trim. Could you restore a vehicle to the same status as the garage queen? You bet, but not for $15K. 2¢

The numbered statements are actually taken from a comedian's routine. Don't remember who the comedian is but I do recall seeing the video of it. Where swearing and other uses of expletive language are commonly used in Stand Up Comedy, in written form they take on a different meaning and import. To most of us who would agree that there's altogether too much use of "foul" language these days, we need to remember that to these people, OUR idea of FOUL language is not at all what they are used to. In fact, to us, it seems as though they CANNOT SPEAK without using expletives. The main difference between this post and "Boobs" is that in "Boobs" you read the title, then read the post and warning THEN clicked to see a picture. This post on the other hand, has the warning and the language on the same page AND in the same post. Kind of like #6. "Would you like to see some Sh!t?" While holding up a double handful. In fact, you can read the whole text posted, and simply ELIMINATE the expletive and the content does not change. However, the assumption that we're all too stupid or naive to know what four asterisked word could be used in the edited / censored document, and then following it up by a phonics class on what the word was in an effort to see if it could be pushed past the sensors, is just simply childish.

Electricity can be deceptively simple and confoundingly complex in one statement. Ohm's Law while being one of the basic precepts of electronics is also one of the hardest to "get down pat". If you break it down into two statements, like Tanny mentioned, it becomes easier to grasp. The relationship he mentions is: Voltage (E) = Current (I) multiplied by Resistance ® E = I * R By manipulation: I = E / R and R = E / I This all gets combined into the little circle divided into one half piece and then two quarter pieces. With the letters arranged this way: E ===== I | R Now, with all the mathematic gibberish out of the way, we can discuss the basics of ohm's law. Basically it says that the amount of electrons going THROUGH a wire (current; I ) is inversely related to the opposition (resistance; R ) of the wire's composition AND directly related to the amount of strength (voltage; V or E ) So the MORE power (Voltage) you apply to a given circuit the more Current you will get limited by the Resistance inherent in the material. Hope this helps Enrique

The spindle pins were still available from the dealer not too long ago. 2¢

In order to try to maintain all postings regarding RUST PREVENTION inter-connected, I'm going to post a few URL's from prior discussions we've had. This way, when someone pops on and wants to add to an existing, or post a new, we can link them with each other. If others can think of other Rust Prevention links that should be added, please chime in. Enrique Scanlon Rocker Panel Rust Prevention and Retrieving Rivet Pins: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1631&highlight=RUST+PREVENTION Cowl Drain and Front Fender Rocker Area Rust: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=5213&highlight=COWL+DRAIN Avoiding Rust Traps: (THIS posting's prior incarnation.) http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=4243&highlight=COWL+DRAIN