plutovitch

How is it we can see through glass?

Hi guys, something thats starting to bug me, I have a reconditioned 5 speed close ratio gearbox, as soon as I get to about 2500rpm a high pitch whine starts up. If I back off and the revs drop below 2500 no more whine , rev back up and the whine returns. If I hold the gearstick the whine changes pitch so Im thinking vibration? But why and how to get rid of it? cheers

Ahhhhhhhhhhh! when you are trying the central locks for fit, youre looking at the outside door handle arent you! Try the inside door handle (bottom of door away from window and other moving parts) all the locking rods are there to attach to and its an easy fit! cheers

Hi, I put in central locking in my '75 260z late last year, took a bit of fiddling but they work fine now. I bolted the actuators to the door handle plate (take the door handle plate assembly out of the door, and put the actuator against it.) You want the actuator stroke? rod parallel to the factory door handle rod (looking at it, there is a metal rod that runs from the door handle to the lock mechanism) and then use the linkages supplied to attact them together I would post photos ...but dont have a camera. didnt have to use a bracket, just bolted the central door locking mechanism straight to the rear of the door handle plate best of luck

Hi Guys, bit of a problem with my carbies , both have been professionally rebuilt, the front is fine, the rear developes a leak after about 60 seconds at idle??. No leak at startup (cranking) its just as you think everything is ok.....petrol starts coming out of the balance / equalizer port on the rear carby? Maybe (cars been off the road for 4 years) the needle is being blocked (stuck open) by sediment / crap? Have tried clearing the needle , worked fine for about 40-60 secs and then the leak reappeared! Any ideas?? Cheers

Hi guys, when I push the brake pedal in, its slow to release? Doesnt snap back to its starting position, but slowly returns? Any ideas??

Hi Simmo if youre looking for someone for bodywork , give Mike at John Lynn smash repairs a call (9481-8226 / Thornleigh). Mike and Scottie do excellent work, cut all the rust out of my 260 (big job) and resprayed it. Highly recommended....though do ask how long its likely to take! cheers Chris

"snap, snap" this wont hurt, did it! thanks Carl :classic:

Hi guys, its taken me almost four years to get my z to the stage where its drivable again....and now the only thing stopping me is the passenger side front brake! I've bled and bled and bled the brakes, I have almost no pressure in the brake pedal until I clamp off the flexible hose to that front passenger caliper and voila! Pressure!....Yep, so there's air in the line somewhere. Both front calipers are rebuilt replacements from my local Z dealer, when I was pulling my hair out today I noticed that on the drivers side, the bleed nipple was on the top of the caliper, but the passenger side nipple was on the bottom???? Now does this mean that I've ended up with two drivers side calipers and no matter what I do, I wont be able to bleed that last bit of air out (of the passenger side?) Or is there a way to bleed a caliper upside down, or do I just go back to the dealer and tell him how after 4 years of blood, sweat, tears, frustration and a whole lot of fun , that this close to being able to drive my baby again, I no longer have a sense of humour and if he doesnt swap the caliper Im going to stuff it so far up his arse, that every time he farts he crushes his nuts! Any ideas? (about the caliper that is!) cheers