Ricklandia

Awesome, many thanks. Love the look of that spoiler, subtle. I'll have to put some thought into this.

thx Jason. I figured before I called them, ya'll would straighten me out and I could find out if my description was making sense.

Okay, guys, I wonder if I can get a little help with this. My PO swapped out the '73 flat top carbs for a set of '72 round top SU's. But instead of reinstalling the original linkage, he left it completely unassembled (in a box) and cobbled together a cable linkage assembly. It's pretty crude, but seems to work okay. I've been rummaging through the spares box and made an assessment of the parts, not all the parts are there. So I've been looking through the gallery photos as best I can to try to recreate what/how it's all supposed to work. But I do have a coule of questions I just cant figure out on my own: (see photo - sorry to who's ever photo I used as it's obviously not my car) Circle #1 - I have this lever part, and I believe what is the plastic bushing. It looks as though the only missing part is an E-Clip. Is this correct? Does it need two bushings (top and bottom)? Circle #2 - This entire rod appears to be missing. This is the rod that attaches to the same lever piece in the engine bay, and to some part of the gas pedal assembly on the inside... strike that. Just got up under the dash and it looks like he kept the ball end on the pedal assembly but cut the rod and attached the cable there. Pretty slick. Ztherapy for this rod? Circle #3 - I have both of these pieces, as well as the bushing type piece that goes between the two nodes on the intake manifold. What I do not have, or cannot determine is what additional pieces are needed at this junction. The J-shaped rod slides down into the two prongs of the other piece. This J rod has a small hole drilled in it, which looks suitable for a very small cotter pin(?) but that leaves a ton of slop in the linkage. Is it possible this needs a washer with spring assembly (then the cotter pin)? Last but not least, I'm missing the throttle stop screw and spring, as well as the final rod connecting this linkage to the actual carb linkage. ZTherapy has these maybe? I guess lastly what I'm wondering is why he would have gone through all the trouble to make a cable linkage when most of the parts look like they're all there? Am I missing more parts that I'm not aware of? Which brings up another question: Circle #4 - the fork looking piece threads thru the two holes of the intake manifold. Between these two nodes of the intake, the fork piece is also threaded thru a center "collar" type piece (where the final rod is attached. The fork piece is drilled in alignment with this collar piece - what goes thru the hole? It's not threaded yet looks way too large for another cotter pin.

Ask, and Ye Shall Recieve! You guys are amazing! Thanks for all the input, I almost feel guilty now for asking, I didn't intend for anyone to put in so much effort! :knockedou As I sit in my garage, contemplating the potential future of my car (gotta christen her with a name soon) I can't help but draw on a "60's Euro" theme. Perhaps it's the wire wheels, but I can't get the Ferrari Daytona comparison out of my head. I've been strongly leaning toward Black as my color of choice, with all that chrome, that swept back look... **BTW, how hard is it to get an old authentic Aussie or UK license plate? I saw the ones on the VicZCar site, white on black, and thought that might look rather sweet. I've got a stack of old Florida plates if anyone want's to trade.

I was out Saturday with my better half running errands, which found me standing in a Borders at the newsstand. On the shelf was a Classic Car magazine which had an article on 240Z's (collector status/resto/whatnot). It's a British magazine I believe. One of the things it mentioned was the fact that ALL Euro/Asian 240/260's shipped with a front valance spoiler that was not offered in the USA. Unfortunately, the photospread in the magazine was somewhat lacking, and I was wondering if anyone here could point me to some detailed pictures of this spoiler? They did give a British resto house that offered reproductions for sale (http://www.fourways-engineering.co.uk) but the site does not have a photo of them. If I'm not mistaken, the Euro model 240/260's had from turn indicator lights bolted to the bumper as opposed to the USA style lights, correct? I am curious to know if this Euro spec spoiler would work on a US 240. I wouldn't want to butcher either piece to make it work, but I'm thinking it might be nice to have something a little different than the average "look" here in America. Can some of our Euro/Aussie members help me out on this?

1993 was my one (and probably only) chance to see the 500 in person. As a kid, May could never come soon enough and I dreampt of the day I could actually go to the 500. I was not dissappointed. I had the priveledge to get tickets ~20 rows in, dead center of T1. I took my wife, who has absolutely ZERO interest in auto racing, but to this day she will still agree that the event was truely awe inspiring. The sadness of it all is that today the event has fallen to "ho-hum" status, a true shame. I figure I may have only a few more years to get the next "must-see-before-I-die" events in - LeMans - before that too becomes just another "ho-hum" event.

Uhhh... dumb question here, but... Can someone tell me the size of the steering wheel nut offhand?

How can you guys watch that??? Make's my a** pucker BIGTIME! Spent 3 hours in an emergengy room getting gravel and dirt scubbed outta my arms from road rash after a bike spill. I feel for that poor girl.

No mystery. Just read my signature, it will tell you all there is to know that is important. The way I look at it, one door was shut, but another one has opened, sorta like when you crack that last cold one in the fridge, and then your wife pulls in the driveway with more! Ahhhhh, life is good...

Need to find me a place to do that here in S. FL. My Miata has the same damned problem, driving me insane. I know it's a balance problem, but the morons at the tire shop rebalanced mine a few weeks ago, and all it did was shift the speed range the vibration happens at (used to be at 70-80mph, now it's 65-75 mph). The major portion of my daily commute is highway, so it's very aggravating.

Live, learn, and relax... everything is all better now... Ohhhhmmmmmm...Ohhhhmmmmmm...

Sorry to jump in here... I'm at the same stage with mine. Are these lines available at local parts stores or are they "special" items? Cruising through the VB catalog, they were unavailable. Gonna hit the local auto parts store tomorrow, but my success with them in the past has been limited.

FI or Carbs? If it's carbed, sounds like the idle mixture may be off. I'm an SU newbie, but I've had carbed cars do that before. As for FI, dunno about the Datsun system, but my Miata has an adjustment for that. Sorry I couldn't be more helpful.

It was up more than $10. I have no idea what a set of lenses are worth generally, but my attitude is that if he had a minimum price in mind, he should have stuck a reserve on them. All I can say is that if I don't get a response to my PM, what he WILL get is a negative feedback report! Found this on Ebay: Note: Sellers are not permitted to cancel bids and end listings early in order to avoid selling an item that did not meet the desired sale price. This is considered to be reserve fee circumvention. Although there are legitimate reasons for ending a listing early, abuse of this option will be investigated. For sure I'm making a mountain out of a mole hill, I just need to vent! The lenses look real nice, at a decent price, and would have looked REAL nice on my new baby.

"B" looks strikingly like the old Cheetah racer of the 60's, like it. Unfortunately, because of that it loses it's identity as a Z

WTF??? The seller yanked the lenses off EBay with just 24hrs to go! I had top bid too, damnit! Didn't have a "buy now" price either. :mad: :mad:

I am going to need to replace the tie rod ends on my '73, so I've been shopping around (I have quite a number of other things to order as well). When I looked at the Victoria British catalog, the ends are listed at $19.95ea, however when I look at the Courtesy Nissan online catalog they're listed at $54.55! Does anyone know who VB's supplier is for these parts? Quality? that's quite a difference in price (IMO).

Sorry to dredge this thread back up but I just came acrossed it. I will be needing to strip off my matting soon, so this thread has been very informative. I do have one question though: In some of the photos posted here, it looks as though the dry ice has not only seperated the matting, but the paint as well, is this correct? If this is true on my floorpan, no problem as they're shot anyway. But I'm going to need to do the rear deck area and don't necessarily want to remove the paint if it's not needed. Can one of the successful experimenters please clarify on this?

Not stupid at all. I would like to know the exact same thing. Mine has what looks to be a dealer installed rear louver, the channeling of which appears to be sandwiched in the hatch glass molding. I'd like to remove the louver system which will mean pulling the rear glass out, something I've never done before. Can you say "paranoid"?

My bad. Could have sworn thay weren't available til '94. I have a '91 as well, gives me something to think about now.

Rule of thumb: with carbs (or any fuel delivery system for that matter), better to err on the rich side than the lean side.

If you used an engine degreaser (like GUNK), it's possible that it may be more than just moisture. Degreaser products like GUNK can leave a residue that will easily conduct electicity. Like Carl says, wipe down the dist. cap, plug wires, and any other wiring of the ignition circuit with some WD-40 to eliminate any possibilities that an electrical charge charge is not "jumping" at the higher RPMs. I've seen bad plug wires act perfectly normal at idle, only to short circuit at higher RPMs.

Sound advice from one and all, thank you for the input. I'm still making out my NEEDS and WANTS lists, the later always being much more seductive.

HEHEHE It's nice to be luuuuved!

Make sure your carbs are not running rich too. At idle, they'll be much more prone to misfire, leaving extra air/fuel hangin around. If your valves are even mildly off (worn) it could be causing it to backfire up into the intake manifold. Q: does it pop (out the exhaust) at all during deceleration?