helopilot

nevermind did a search asked and answered.

Bought a 72 240z original ca car. The car has all the smog equipment installed. How much can I remove without messing things up? I live in Bend Oregon the elevation is about 3500' Are other needles a consideration? thanks

After reading a bunch of post I want to put a 280zx dist in my 72 240. I called the local junk yards and no joy. Anybody recomend a good place to pick one up. I am watching one on Ebay but looking for other options. Thanks

Rick, MSA shows ball joints part number 23-4301 34.95. Don't know if they are OEM or not. phil

Here is the story. After all was said and done I bought some guages off ebay. included was a ammeter. I can still operate the car by jumping power to the ignition circuit. I have never seen the ammeter wiggle. I tested the 2 posts on the new ammeter for continuity and it had it. I pulled the old one and tested it no continuity. Switched guages hooked up the batt turned the key car lept forward about a foot cause it was in gear but the key works. All high voltage problems solved with new regulator. Thanks for all the input Phil

here is the story. After all was said and done I bought some guages off ebay. included was a ammeter. I can still operate the car by jumping power to the ignition circuit. I have never seen the ammeter wiggle. I tested the 2 posts on the new ammeter for continuity and it had it. I pulled the old one and tested it no continuity. Switched guages hooked up the batt turned the key car lept forward about a foot cause it was in gear but the key works. All high voltage problems solved with new regulator. Thanks for all the input Phil

no progress with the switch problem yet. I bought a dash with wiring harness for it and the engine compartment from Ed. It should be here next week. Also picked up some rotors for the brakes. Now I just need to decide to put 240 calipers or toyota calipers on the front. Once the dash comes in I can swap stuff and compare wiring and hopefully figure it out. By that time we will probably be headed off somewhere to fight fire.. There is always the fall.

problem solved with a new regulator....

I have a new alternator and I think a bad voltage regulator. My book says to determine alternator output measure voltage from the A terminal on the alternator to the negative terminal on the batt. Mine measured 22-24 volts. I don't know how to measure the voltage from the voltage regulator to the batt. I can tell that there is way to much voltage going to the system. Any advice????? Thanks as always Phil

thanks Ed I sent you a message Phil

Anybody know off hand if a wiring harness out of a 73 will fit a 72? Thanks

Thanks, I'll try that tomorrow.

Where is the best place to check the voltage from the BR? Do i check that at the Batt terminals?

Put a new ballast resistor on the car today. It worked great for a bit then the car died like a switch had been thrown. Felt the BR and it felt fairly hot. The car sat for a while and then it started back up. Did the same thing over again. Any ideas? Car has new cap rotor points condenser. Additionally I have put a new alternator and voltage regulator.

Hey Rick, I put everything back how it was. The new alternator made the lights way bright. In fact the voltage blew 2 headlights and the little brake light in the spedo. Granted these lights have been sitting for 11-12 years. Cars tags say 93. I took the day off of the electrical stuff and hit the car with rubbing compound and wax. What a difference. All dull I thought about just flipping the car and waiting for a better one not needing a total restore. Now it is pulling at my strings... If I just put set of rewinds on it... I did read about the vinegar bath of the fuse block and I might give that a try. I'll call ya later.

Thanks, Saves the contortion of measuring and 15 trips to napa.

The points on the car seem to be pitting and "burning" quick. The other issue is the car was running pretty good. It would start warm up and rev freely. Now it starts and idles but that's about it. I have read the threads and it seems to be a condenser thing. I am ordering the pertronix today so that is the next step. Still wonder what causes the excessive voltage or what in the points. 72 240 stock. been sitting for 11 years. gas seems ok. po cleaned the fuel system i think but i am going that way today. Nice that this engine is exactly like the roadster just a little longer.

This should be a easy one. Tired of bumping the car to move the engine. Messing with the points and such. Would someone tell me the size of the bolt on the front pully. Thanks in advance.

try removing the fuel cap and cranking the engine. some times the breather or vent can be clogged. if there is no air able to get in the tank the gas can't leave. other than that it sounds like a blocked line.

Ok, I put the new alternator on all wires per the wiring diagram. I turn the key and the same thing. I jumped the fuse started it ap and all the light are way bright. They also dim and brighten with the rpm like a generator on a 6 volt VW. I just don't get it. I have pulled the connector off the back of the ignition switck. With my handy dandy 12 tester light grounded there is no power to any of the slots. I don't know what to do. I'll try and pawn the kids off and try again tomorrow. Flew external load training with 500 lbs on a 100' line from the hook on the helicopter today and my brain is fried...

Just back with a new regualtor. No change. I did buy a alternator for the car by the cars year and the one on it is not even close. I will swap this out when I get back from dinner.

Thanks Rick, If I jump the fuse which gives power to the system when the car starts I can remove the jump and it continues to run. I the rpm is 1500-2000 usually the lighs will stay on. The running lights for sure probably lights as well. The right headlight is very dim the left bright. I am soaking the screws to remove the right headlight so I can clean the contacts. Last night using the diagram I have i traced the white wire no (red stripe) which conect to that fusible link. On the connector going into the voltage regulator I saw similar wire. I tested for continuity it was the same wire. It had power going in the connector but none comming out. I looked at the connector and there was no wire opposite the white wire. I moved the white wire on the regulator so it lined up but it did not make any difference. I did see however some of the wires on the harness side did not corospond with wires on the VR. As in one blank space. Also the alternator I have has the 2 post connectors. one has white/red stripe the other black. The plastic connector has 4 slots on the alt side. The plastic connector that plugs into the alternator is a extension tht goes from 4 wires on the alt side to 2 wires on the harness side. If the car is sitting not running with the key in any position no lights or anything comes on except the flashers. On the diagram you sent me the white wire/fusible link goes to the Voltage Reg. it goes to the A spot. The A on the alt goes to the fuse block the the ammeter. Right now I have no power at the redwhite wire at the alternator. I am goint to run down to the parts place and get another VR and see if the white wire idea is valid. That may power the A terminal on the alternator which will power the ignition... I'll check back here in a bit Phil

Appreciate you help. Is this where we say hi my name is phil and i'm a ...... Also just cleaned the connections on the ballast resistor. It has continuity between the strips on top and well as the coil wire underneath. Still no joy. this is about as frustrating as flying the helicopter with a 100' line underneath maybe tomorrow..

trouble shooting the new z. 72 240 man 5/72. I have been cleaning all the grounds I can find. The problem is a little baffling. If I turn the key to start nothing happens. No brake light in spedo, no clicking, guages don't work nothing. On the fuse panel I have tested all the fuses and all are good with good continuity. At the starter I have tested the fusible link and it has continuity. On my car there is a large white whire that comes from the wiring harness. A black fusible link (it says it right on it) is connected to the end of the white wire and goes to the same terminal as the pos cable from the battery. I have seen mention of another wire going from the batt positive to the starter, and on mine there is not. On the fuse panel if I give the ignition circuit power from the flasher fuse by jumping across with a screwdrived the dash lights come on the ignition switch starts the car and all is well. All the lights work, guages work ect. I took the alternator down and it tested ok. I have cleaned the contacts for the voltage regulator. I swapped out the ignition switch itself (the electrical side) and that did the same thing. When the car is sitting if I turn on the lights or anything nothing works at all except the emergency flasher. I hate to keep doing the purchase diagnostic I have a factory manual comming and a haynes to work with now but I am lost. Thanks phil

Just brought the "new" home. 72 240 all original except for the wheels. Bought from the classifieds here. The car has no power to the fuse labeled ignition. If you bridge from the next fuse labeled flasher power will go to the ignition switch. With tester voltage always present to the flasher. Any ideas what to check next. Once the car is started everything guages ect work. The other thing which I am almost sure is tied in is when you turn the headlights on the car dies. All other ecectrical stuff works. I have cleaned the conections at the alternator and voltage reguator. When the car is running the ammeter shows no charge. A bit puzzling...