madkaw

Both. Car has lived in a very hot climate -Nevada. The car just smells of abuse. i probably will be using Rotella with a shot of transmission fluid

Well the owner came by yesterday to see the progress. I got lucky and found an owner that is realistic about this type of endeavor . An initial parts list of over 1k didn't buckle his knees or anything . Showing him all the damage from abuse he could understand . I said the abuse warranted me to drop the oil pan to see if it needed to be cleaned and... we we will really see how tough these motors are. I feel a little bad for Bo, but this is what you can get with an old car. I am going to tank the valve cover and oil pan and probably consider the oil pump at this time. Now if we run a detergent of some kind in the oil it won't stir up this sh!t

I got to go see Z's race at IMS and worked in Z's today . Great Father's Day week end for me! happy Father's Day dads

Well spent the last few days cleaning and inspecting. It took HOURS to get the engine bay clean. It was the worse engine bay cleaning I've done. Black oil , gunked in every crevice to be scrapped and scrubbed , wire brushed and washed - twice. At least now I should be able to find where the leak is actually coming from. I suspect front main along with the valve cover that was leaking. I'm surprised the electrical still worked with the generator and voltage regulator covered in black soot. Anything that touched water is trashed but the radiator and heater core cleaned up. Oil is also baked on inside of valve cover - who knows what the oil pan looks like. The crankcase breather tube was partial obstructed with a build up of carbon dirt. I pulled it off and ran a wire brush thru it and was amazed of the amount of crap in there. Brakes were over done. Drums at max size and rotors under sized. It seemed only one side of the caliper was actually moving . One steel line was almost twisted closed. I think I can salvage the rear wheel cylinders , they must have been redone at some point. But still no rust to be found

Well spent the last few days cleaning and inspecting. It took HOURS to get the engine bay clean. It was the worse engine bay cleaning I've done. Black oil , gunked in every crevice to be scrapped and scrubbed , wire brushed and washed - twice. At least now I should be able to find where the leak is actually coming from. I suspect front main along with the valve cover that was leaking. I'm surprised the electrical still worked with the generator and voltage regulator covered in black soot. Anything that touched water is trashed but the radiator and heater core cleaned up. Oil is also baked on inside of valve cover - who knows what the oil pan looks like. The crankcase breather tube was partial obstructed with a build up of carbon dirt. I pulled it off and ran a wire brush thru it and was amazed of the amount of crap in there. Brakes were over done. Drums at max size and rotors under sized. It seemed only one side of the caliper was actually moving . One steel line was almost twisted closed. I think I can salvage the rear wheel cylinders , they must have been redone at some point. But still no rust to be found

I like them Mike!

Good timing Cliff. I just went thru these SU's on the 72 and was about to look for a good thread for tune. I need to rig some hoses for float level and I will be set to tune

Wel the car was described as a " survivor" in the ad- and it survived it's neglect. Rust in the coolant system from running straight water . Coolant lines thru carbs were plugged completely. Thermostat housing cracked and bolts seized in the head. Took the radiator to get flushed and he said it took a while to come out clean . Brake fluid very dirty and will need total flush. Exhaust manifold missing nut at downpipe and all the head nuts were finger tight. Alternator bracket bolt was just sitting in the hole. Good news is compression test was about 150 across. Valves weren't that far out of adjustment and the spray bar was intact and lobes looked good. Lots of gunk build up though. Other good news is that the carbs must have been done once and they actually have some sparkle left. The engine actually has some color on it too

Still have turn signals?

Contacted "Bo" on line thru craigslist an ad he had. . He seemed to be selling because the lack of experienced help with his car by his ad description. I volunteered my services since he was fairly close . Bo turned out to be a great family guy that was wanting a Z and found one. He got this rust free Automatic for him and his wife to enjoy, but like all these cars, it needs a Z medic to be right. By the end of day of checking out his car we agreed to get her going to a safe reliable status for him to enjoy and progress from there. With only 90K miles she is just broke in I told him this will be and up and down adventure with these "classics", so I hope you are ready. I don't have facility to do a "restoration", but I plan on doing anything I can. We got it up on the lift and while he was here and just love those west coast cars-so clean. Looked like the gas tank had already gone thru-painted. There was urethane in most of the bushings already. It needs front end work, rack boots, tie rod boots, ball joint boots are all cracked and or gone. Interior is a gut job, but not sure what color he is going back too. I like the white myself, but either way he is starting from ground zero. Dash is cracked, vinyl is shot , seats are shot. Door panels are some funky aftermarket as well as headliner. Weather stripping is gone to. Already have the SU's apart troubleshooting a rich issue. Carbs were badly misadjusted and one needle was bent. Next is a complete tune up, including valve adjustment, electronic ignition,etc...

Did they offer options to change the bolsters on the seat bottom if you wanted to make them bigger?

110 with originally white interior. Now just a ugly interior that has morphed black. Bad paint job that oozed onto finisher

Took on a client for some Z work- didn't have enough to do- 1972 Auto from out west- very rust free and original. Going to try and bring her back to glory

Congrats

You know what's funny is that I have never enjoyed that induction sound because my airbox muffles that. All I hear is engine and exhaust . And I have contacted several folks about larger chokes than 32 for 40's , and they don't exist for the most part. I would need to modify/enlarge mine. The good thing is that if I go to large , there are used 32's out there to pop back in

You know what's funny is that I have never enjoyed that induction sound because my airbox muffles that. All I hear is engine and exhaust . And I have contacted several folks about larger chokes than 32 for 40's , and they don't exist for the most part. I would need to modify/enlarge mine. The good thing is that if I go to large , there are used 32's out there to pop back in

You know what's funny is that I have never enjoyed that induction sound because my airbox muffles that. All I hear is engine and exhaust . And I have contacted several folks about larger chokes than 32 for 40's , and they don't exist for the most part. I would need to modify/enlarge mine. The good thing is that if I go to large , there are used 32's out there to pop back in

So you have a stock tach in there now and you haven't seen it run so you don't know if it works. Just saying that my current type tach worked fine with the zx dizzy. I wouldn't swap tachs until you get it running or you might really be chasing your tail

the thing that throws me is the tach internal swap. The 240z and 280z operate differently . One is current driven and the other voltage . Trying to follow wiring practices for an early tach wiring might now work for your set up. My early tach worked fine with no additional wires for the tach. I wish I could be more help , but the zx dizzy swap I did was a hot for the coil and then connecting the connector wires from the dizzy- done.

I believe- working off of memory here- the broken part in your pic is just a spacer. The stator usually cracks and won't hold the gap setting when you tighten the screws. I wish I had mine in front of me but I made it work by properly spacing the stator ring . I will try and dig it up. ive since given up on distributors

EFI is still in the works and getting closer . Intake, fuel rail, injectors , TB , all acquired . Just a few last efforts on the Mikunis before I sell them off. It's been a fun ride but it's about time to move on.

Been a while , but I guess that's a good thing. Car has really been running well . Went to the dyno and got lack luster results. Basically dyno numbers weren't much different than running SU's - about 150hp.The few Z owners I know can't believe that it's only 150 the way the car performs. Anyhow , I was considering larger chokes. I stated earlier in the thread that I had 34's, but they are just 32's. This Mikuni package was part of a complete street kit. This was meant to bolt on to a stock motor so 32's were plenty. I think those 32's are choking me up a bit and wanted to bigger. None available . So you guys that have machines out your 32 's to a bigger size - tell me about it.I was considering 35mm since my ports are only about that big anyway. Don't know how thin that makes the venturis? Is this something any machine shop could be trusted to do?Also installing a .6mm HG to pump things up a bit.

It's in the works- hope it doesn't fall thru

Did you say throttle response!!

Parking brake and proportioning valve . Another obstacle to overcome with these seats.