AxtellZ

as far as access to the guage- i believe in the 71 you can pull out the glove box, then reach in and remove the screw holding each guage in place. Once out, take a look-see, just a couple screws to pull her apart to get to the bezel. As far as the pressure dropping at idle, its normal in the L6 anyway. Both of my carz (73 & 74) run about 60 to 75psi when revving, but drop to 10 or 20 at idle. From what i've been told, that is by design, and normal.

I am guessing its a battery/alternator/VR problem. I would take the batt & alt into your local parts store to have them tested. ( My 2cents is on the alternator) The dim light, weak spark/ignition, sounds like it's just short on juice. By having the parts tested, you can avoid just guessing & tossing $$ at the problem. Good luck, let us know what you find Jeremiah

Hi Ed, You might try Barry Brown at Riter Restorations in East Rochester (585)385-4151. Not sure if they do their own, or farm it out, but they may be able to help.. Jeremiah

Dunno about the charge light, but guess it would be the alternator/VR going or gone bad. As far as the starter, i'd guess it to be going out too. My 74 260 got like that, some days she'd spin the first time, others i'd hit the igniton a dozen times to get a start. Like yours, when it cranked, it worked fine. I got a rebuilt starter from www.rockauto.com for about $18US, she hits first time every time since then! Good luck, Jeremiah

There is a company here in western NY called NY Strip. They use a high-volume, low pressure plastic bead blast, so no metal warping or stretching. It won't take out rust or body filler i guess, but does a nice job on paint removal. They quoted about $700US for a Z sized body, and will epoxy prime for another 5 or 600. Eventually that's where my 73 will go, i'll let everyone know how it works out.

and what he means is: When she's 15, you wish she was 36, but when she's thirty-six, you wish she was 24. 15 36 24 Sorry about that Bonnie:classic:

headlight buckets, yes. valance pieces, no. the valance changed size & shape as the bumpers grew larger and the turn signals moved.

Both! this is my homepage, both at home and at work... I am sure the other pharmacists just love to see it when they log on, and to see me, my wife and my Z as my wallpaper.... Maybe i AM an addict- now where's that Methadone??

Ditto. 'nuff said. Good luck- that's some quandry to be in, isn't it? As my father would call "rich man's troubles"..

My name is Jeremiah, and I too, am a Z addict:love: I bought my 73 in 1993, after lusting for a 240 since i was about 7 years old. She was in decent shape, but had usual New York rust:cry: I spent 8 years driving, playing, fixing...got the mechanicals finished, new floors, carbs, springs & struts, poly bushings. I finally got her in line to have the bodywork done and painted- had to schedule 10 months ahead! After 9 months, one of the guyz in the local club ( www.zccr.net ) had to sell his 260. So, being the addict type, i jumped at the chance to buy ANOTHER z, using my saved body/paint money. After all, he had just painted, etc! So my 73 still waits, but she is not forgotten.. Just have to wait till 4 kids spare me enough $ again :sleepy: And when i'm not working or toying with the carZ, i spend my computer time here (and searching for ebay z bargains)- This site is my homepage- anyone else?

Yes, its the BR wiring that causes the car to run only in the "start" position. The bad newz: i can't tell you the correct wiring procedure. I do know that on my 73 a few years back, 1 wire from the BR would wiggle loose occasionaly, when that happened it would only run when at "start". Try a search of this site about balast resistor, start, etc.. i think there's a few threads that will help you. Sorry i can't help more, good luck!

I agree with Carl, that "sounds" like a rocker/valve area rattle- Have you pulled the cover yet? In my experience, i always expect the worse, only to find these cars are tough little buggers, and have thusfar had only minor troubles... I wish the same for you. Good luck! Jeremiah

I'm with Keith on this one! If you have any means at all to stash parts, keep all you can- if for no reason other than Ebay- it's amazing what will sell. And i can't tell the amount of times i have needed some obscure part, or had a friend that did. A gauge, a knob, some interior panel, light, the list goes on and on... Hell, i've been known to send distant friends climbing through the mountains to an old parts car to fend off snakes and bees, just to find a certain gauge, or maybe turn signal switch.....Hey Keith, have you heard this story beforeLOL ? You, my friend, are a great man. Thanks again for your help!! Anyway, if you can part it into storable boxes- keep all you can! my $0.02US, Jeremiah

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2414548893 for 260, but i *think* it would fir 70-78 Z cars..

Well, yes, they do look better on the Z- but we hoped they were some rare, valuable (sellable) piece. Of course on Ebay, you can always find someone glad to overpay! Thanks for the help! Jeremiah

OK, i guess i am impaired, but the pic appeared this morning for me:stupid: So i have put it in my gallery, since i can't seem to make this happen here at work. George- those rims are known as "Turbine" style here, i have a set exactly like that on my silver 73:love: I believe that there were a few manufacturers that made similar wheels; Appliance, Western Wheels, etc. I got mine on Ebay a few years back- Thanks, Jeremiah

Damn!! Glad to see you're back:classic: Hadn't chimed in yet, as i have the same thoughts and prayers as everyone else here.....but know that there are loads of friends here pulling for you! Take care, be well, and good luck in getting back behind the wheel. Zya, Jeremiah

Hi all, we just picked up an early 74 260Z, rust bucket- but some useful parts at least. Has rims i've not seen before, can anyone identify them? (14 inch) I'll try to attach the pic... again..

You guys remember back in grammar school- you have a piece of paper, on it written: "how do you keep an idiot busy for hours?" "(see other side)" It was written, Duh, on both sides..........................flip, flip, flip, flip Today, it's clicky, clicky, clicky, clicky................ You've been hadROFL

I did this a year or two back, involved plenty of cussing, i remember. I jacked the front of the car up, then used a variety of wooden dowels, board strips, etc,to pry and poke at the latch and eventually got the sombitch to pop open. Good luck!

As a follow-up, to keep everyone tuned to the outcome... Read your directions, don't *assume* your helper did:stupid: Once i got the optical trigger aligned well with the rotor and dist/cap post- all runs well, for now.. The bad newz: My helper installed his weeks before me, on his recently refreshed & installed L28 turbo block. His didn't run well at all, so he *ASSUMED* he installed the distributor/oil pump shaft off a tooth- he pulled it & moved it, got the car to run (still poorly)- Then came down and found i had read the instructions, and his problem is the same- but now he has to move that shaft back, then align his ignition eye!:stupid: :stupid: OUCH! Moral of the story: Maybe some days it pays to read the instructions:classic:

Ok you Aussies- before you bail out from this thread, you must explain the "raw prawns" and "stone the crows"......I am sure it must be Z related, in some way.... Oh, and on the Pilot/John Denver/Mr Rogers/blahblahblah, it's time to agree that some of us disagree, shake hands and sit down to a beer together. I'll be home at 8:45pm Eastern Standard Time- everyone join me tonight, I'll be thinking of you all:classic: Jeremiah

I posted this to the mail-list too, here is Cary White's response: I have the same optical unit (though I use the Hi-6 box) and the placement of the little eye is crucial. I would suggest that you put your distributor back to center position and fiddle with the placement of the eye until you get it running good. If I'm not mistaken, the distributor cam turns clockwise, so moving the little eye along it's mount in a counter clockwise direction should advance your timing. Hope that helps. p.s. once you get it right, you will love this setup. you'll never have to mess with it again. Cary Methinks i am going to try to get it right, but carry the old parts from the dizzy in the car with me, as "insurance":stupid:

Damn Carl! Isn't that just a kick in the nutZ!? See, my late 260 already had Datsun electronic ignition, and i had planned to keep it stock (since it worked fine), but my wife bought me the XR700 unit as a birthday gift:tapemouth Not to "look a gift-horse in the mouth", i happily installed the unit. Happily, that is, until you came and rained on my parade. Not what i was looking to hear, you're right! But, as long as you've been here- does my assessment sound correct? Think if i move that optical mount i can get the timing closer, at least to get the car back home? Anyone else been happy with the XR700??