240ZX

NOT!!!! :stupid:

First of all, welcome to Classic Zcar Club! Regarding the removal of your tranny output shaft seal....#1 - Remember that the tranny housing is aluminum and is easy to damage. #2 - What may help you out, based on your explaination of your progress, take a small bladed screw driver and file or carefully grind the bladed end to a realatively sharp chisel piont. #3 - Place the sharpened end of the screw driver between the edge of the seal assembly and the transmission housing, and drive it in with a hammer about 1/4" (thats about as far as you will need). This should create a small gap. Follow this procedure adjacent to the first place you created the gap. #4 - Now you should be able to get a slightly larger bladed screw driver in the gap to pry it out. If you do damage the housing a little, fear not, as a little sealant in that area during the installation of a new seal should resolve that. Just some food for thought!!!

Charlie, You've heard the old saying...."If it aint broken don't fix it!" If its running satisfactory, just maintain it until you do a rebuild. Sometimes issues can arrise from trying to flush out the old gunk.....leaking seals, semi-plugged passages, etc. Maybe someone else will jump in and share thier experiences with a similar issue.

Marc, The conversion you plan to do to a good one and is quite common! With the 5 spd/4:11 you will notice a significant improvement in acceleration....well worth the effort involved. As far as a typical price for an R200 differential.....somewhere around $75.00 to $200.00 depending on condition and if its an open or LSD unit. For sure you will want to do your homework on the details of the conversion. Consider replacing things like bushings, wheel bearings, U-joints, and such while you have it apart. Let us know how things transpire.

Interesting statement about Mobil 1 ! It almost seems funny, because many professional racers have sworn by it for many years. Maybe you just used the wrong wieght oil or your oil system had issues. Additionally, Mobil 1 filters are one of the best rated filters on the market...but they cost!

Good call Carl......most definitely a 1970!

Peter, I was definitely in attendance and my Z was parked on the corner at the south end of the exhibit....the car is red but no flames.

I'd have to say it was a pretty nice show...learned a thing or two about the roadsters from Victor, who by the way, always welcomes you to rest at Camp Vic. These roadster folks are just as sick as us Z car folks. I drove my 240 up to Solvang Saturday morning.....very pleasent drive at that....hung out for a couple of hours and headed back toward Ventura. Was a fun and educational day! Thanks for being such a host Victor.

Mobil 1....filter and oil. Good stuff!

Shoot......the tail-light lenses alone are worth more than $250.00! I suppose if someone were into dragging it home and dismanteling the rust bucket, they could likely make a few dollars from parts.

I also agree with Craig's suggestion. I would prefer the RA1's but TOYO only has my rear tire sizing...no fronts in my size! :disappoin

I'll second that recommendation. I'm also running a set of the Yokohama ES100's on my 240Z. However, mine are 215-40 x 17" (front) and 235-40 x 17" (rear). Damn good high performance street tires...and they are relatively cheap too!!

I'm sticking my neck out here but, do the webers even have a choke?

Steve, You are correct about the title of the book...amd it is a good book. However, IIRC it does not provide all the specific details for rebuilding the Z, but is geared more toward guidance for a successful rebuild. Now of course there are some assumptions that should be addressed, such as having some level of mechanical apptitude and sufficient tools to exicute the rebuild. So, basically one would need to be capable of disassembling and reassembling the car as well as being able to deal with the usual issues that come up that deviate from the norm...like, how do I remove and deal with rusted and frozen fasteners. The only really tough area, when replacing bushings is at the rear control arms were they attach to the strut assembly...as it can be tough to disassemble, due to frozen rusty parts. There are also some tricks to reassembly when using the urethane bushings, as they are not as compliant as the rubber units and at the time of reassembly your hands are most certainly covered with that super slippery lube that is provided for lubing up the bushings. You will speak to God now and them...believe me! The specific area I am talking about is the reassembly of the rear control arm to the strut. The reassembly is much easier when you grind a slight relief on one side of the strut housing, were the bushing bear against the casting, otherwise you will be trying to force this slippery bushing over a machined sharp edge to get it in place. Just about all the other areas, for bushing replacement, are pretty straight forward. Damn, one coul;d write a book about this subject. But don't panic, it's been sucessfully done by many.

I'm not certain which kit is the best, or if one is better than another...but for sure, do use the provided bushing lube and use it liberally.....no lube = squeeking. I believe the kit I purchased and installed was from ENERGY SUSPENSION.

Lacy, Have you had a chance to purchase a factory shop manual on your Z yet? They have really nice exploded views of the systems within the Z. Anyway, in regards to your question...I think you are asking, what type of bushings are used in the rear suspension, as the rear drive axles are nothing more than telescopic driveshafts and are bolted to the differential and stub axle assemblies...right and left side. Now the stock bushings are a rubber compound and generally are shot due to age and wear. I think its safe to say that most people replace the old rubber units with modern day urethane bushings. They will certainly tighten up your suspension (minimise play) and last almost indefinitely. A complete urethane bushing kit (for the entire car)runs about $250.00 and is worth every penny of the price. They can be purchased from a number of sources as well...do a little searching here in the archives and on the NET....seek and you shall find! There are old posts that discuss the entire process oss removing the old ones and installing the new ones. The most difficult ones to deal with are the lower outer rear bushings, where the strut assembly attaches to the transverse link. The tappered locking bolt and spindal shaft tend to become rusted in place and require some words to God. Hope this post gets you pointed in the right direction.

Dave, I believe the best way and possibly the easiest way is to remove the center console. You will likely find more metal clips (mine had 6 or 8 IIRC) under the console area. Basically, when the console is out and turned over, you roll the edges of the new boot over the the bottom edge lip of the shifter opening and install the clips over the boot material and shifter opening lip. Note: My clips were pretty stiff, so be carefull not to rip the boot when installing the clips. Location of the clips is up to you. Hope this helps you out.

Beyond the WET, I think all had a good time at this years show. I want to personally thank Victor for his hospitality, as Camp Vic was in a prime time location, albet a required move from one spot to another (only about four parking spots away)....the usual show disorder while parking! I almost drove my Z to the show, but as I was leaving home I looked toward LA and decided my Z didn't need a complete washing (you know...every friggin inch of exposed car from top to bottom) so travel to the show was via my pickup truck. I think I enjoyed the show alot more this year as I got to talk to a load of folks about their Z's as opposed to sitting around talking about my Z (as in years past). Some really awesome Z's where in attendance. One in particular was an early Z with the ZG flares, big wide wheels, a turboed SR20, and a 240SX dash. The car was really done well. Another older guy from San Diego brought his persimon colored 240 (autocross guy) that at first glance didn't appear too striking until you got up close and personal. By the way this guy was an autocross class winning champ. The 240 had all the correct chassis mods to handle the 400 + cu. in. sbc (a friggin Dart alum block for starters) with an output of 480 HP!!!! The guy said he was a tool and die maker and from the looks of his work he is an excellent one as well! Anyway, lots of super nice Z's and loads of great people to talk to. And I did get to meet quit a few of the members that post here...most had on the T-shirts (they look good too). I on the other hand was wearing a T-shirt from the other guys (HybridZ). Yes, I have friends from HybridZ! Do I have to do penance how? One last item...I finally got to meet Vicky and her husband Chris....great folks and we talked for some time...loved it. It was certainly a different experience for me this year, not showing my Z, but being a spetator. Like I said, beyond the WET, it was a great show!

Hey Eric, it may be possible that the 4 spd you have came out of my 1970 240Z. A few months ago Victor drove up to my place and I traded the 4 spd for a case of Pacifico beer. He was pretty happy with the deal. Also, if you visit most any of the big tire outfit online, they have the calculation formulasto figure out your speed...just type in the info and it will calculate it for you.

Kids......... :stupid: Carl, what's this world coming to anyway?

I quess that all depends on....well, just about everything else beyond what engine you have. Examples....transmission type and gearing, differential gearing, rear tire size/compound, weather conditions at where ever it is you plan to put down the 1/4 mile run, etc., etc.!

Craig, Thanks for all the encouragement and advice! It would definitely be a real hoot. I used to hold a racing licsence (motorcycles), did club racing for a number of years and have turned many laps at Willow, so at least I wouldn't have to spend a ton of focus on learning a new track, although I'm sure the lines will be different in a Z car. Man, now you got me all worked up....we'll see if I can swing it this time. And thanks for the offer to hang out. Talk at you later Craig.