240ZX

There is a saying my good friends use....."Friends don't let friends buy junk"!!! Looks like a ton-O-work to me. I suppose if one were to get this Z for under $1K and planned to do a complete overhaul (of everything).

Easy there big boy....lifes too short to get your panties in a bunch! Nate, I think Mr. Mortensen was agreeing with your statement.

Mike, mine's at 40 :classic:

I'd love to have the Rebello motor (no tranny needed). Whats your selling price. I live in SoCal, so we'd have to figure out shipping....but that another issue. Tom

Thanks for the address Dan. I didn't see any flyer in your post....at least it didn' show up when I opened your post. Thanks again!

What an impressive performance......and seven years in a row! Of course we all know it was a team effort. I'm a diehard mountain biker and have been pretty serious about riding for over 20 years now. What really puts things into perspective is that the slowest and weakest guy in the pellaton is light years ahead in abilities compared to even the fittest local riders I know. I've always said that I wish I was just half as strong as the weakest guy in the Tour De France..........Oh, I'm a dreamer. I tend to believe that the average american has absolutely no clue as to how fit these tour guys are and what is involved to become that good. The Tour De France is one of the greatest sporting events in the world....how come its given so little attention in the USA? I'm sorry but the vast majority of americans are a bunch of lazy fatass couch potatoes worrying about...well, what ever it is they worry about! Lance and his team are the greatest Tour De France riders to ever come around and will likely not be matched anytime in the near future. Congratulation Team Discovery Channel. We will miss you Lance!

Damn! That was a great story......wished to hell I could have seen that one!!!

Might be able to attend if I knew where it was being held??? P.S. Bill, you better leave right now if you plan on being there...where ever there is!

Hey KATS, I just noticed the s/n on your 240 (2156)....interesting, mine is s/n (2126) mfg date of 3/70! Just thought I'd mention it.

Have you thought about contacting ENKEI?

Interesting comments all! I believe the only reason for the OHC vs OHV is to reduce valve train reciprocating mass to obtain efficiency and higher RPM. If you through enough $$$ at either design you will get the horsepower. Comparing one engine to another vs OHV vs OHC is just two separate issues.

Another nice feature of an adjustable proportioning valve is being able to change the front to rear bias. For example...when its rainy out you my want a little more front bias for safety reasons and in the summer you may wish to improve overall braking by adding a little more rear bias when traction is better. Or if you may choose to spend a day at the track or auto-x where you will likely adjust for more rear bias than you would typically use for the street. Anyway, its all about getting the best braking for the conditions you are driving in.

Good advise! The splines do become worn and do tend to get stuck in place due to the worn area on the splines. The mallet trick is a good one. Additionally, you can also (with the wheel on) rotate the wheel left and right in an abrupt fasion....this will sometimes get the worn splines to line up with the un-worn section of splines that must be passed over for disassembly.

Generally speaking a proportioning valve is used to reduce the pressure to the rear brakes to prevent premature rear wheel lockup. Regarding your question about removing the proportioning valve, you would be increasing the pressure to the rear wheels. Actually the pressure (without the valve) would be the same for the front and the rear.

From the condition of #00002, maybe it was stacked on a flatbed with our like cars.....destine for the CRUSHER, but was luckly saved!

I believe the original pointers are white....against black gauge faces, at least on the USA Zs.

I think all you need is some type of weather seal to keep moisture from getting into the interior of the car.

I don't think there are any magnets in a starter motor. Once the coils are energized they become electro-magnets....but no real magnets exist in the starter!

Regarding flags.....based on the view we were given in the video, you cannot really tell if a yellow flag was issued! It may have been, but up the track a little ways and out of sight of the camera. It seems likely a yellow flag was given, as the speed of the approaching riders was surely less than race speed. I wouldn't goes so far as to say the corner workers did a deplorable job, but in fact responded rather quickly to the incident. It's racing and racing is inherently dangerous. Just an unlucky situation if you ask me!

I quess it's good to see higher prices on really nice Zs....it means ours are increasing in value! The blue Z is certainly nice and I'm almost certain there is well over 20K invested in parts alone. I'd say it is actually a great deal! You buy it and you drive it! Although most of us would rather (and have) toiled over the beasts' ourselves. Anyway, the blue Z is very happening IMO.

I quess the best way to really know whats going on is to pull the rack out, clean, inspect, disassemble if necessary, inspect again, replace what is necessary if need be, reassemble, lube, adjust, and put it back in the Z.

I think your selection for the rear spoiler is great and time specific as well! Why not stay time specific and go with the BRE style (Spook) front air dam. But as they say....each to his own!

Play in the rack...is the play between the rack and the chassis or the internals of the rack? If the play is internal to the rack, it can be adjusted with that big slotted adjuster screw. Get a factory service manual if you don't already have one, for adjustment specs. If the play is between the rack and the chassis, for bushings are to be questioned! Of course there are other factors like ball joints and steering knuckles to address as well.

Didn't you already say they are different? My advise to you is to take it to a muffler shop, along with the new connector for the 79 manifold and let them install it.

I believe you've answered your own question! Get the correct exhaust connector, remove the old one, weld in the new one, and drive! Or use the old exhaust manifold to replace the 79 unit....but who wants to go smaller?