ncz

Ed I appreciate you bringing this one back. I'm filling in time with bunch of cleaning and polishing and didn't want to buy new lenses!!! I thnk the new ones are made of gold. Your lights look great and thanks Enrique for the original info

Advice will taken, those areas will get a lot of wear underneath the mats, so that answers that!!! Looks like some sort of BC/CC it is!

Thanks BD, thats why I love reading this site instead of doing my paperwork!!! I like the idea of an activated base coat, that would be perfect. I wanted the interior "right" but didn't want to do a lot of paint prep in there(after priming). My mechanicals were done a while back so paint is now or never. Normal rust areas except rockers and driver floor pan(great shape, can't believe!) Nobody believes it will ever live again, except for my two year old who will be the only person allowed in it when done. I like to fire it up and drive it around the neighborhood with no fenders or hatch, well, until I took the gas tank and differential out this past weekend!! Just good to see others going through the same stuff and get great tips. I know I'll have some more questions as this gets closer to paint day

Way to go Ken, I'm not as far as you but right behind. Just got all stripped except for dash. I am going to pull engine this weekend. Couple of questions. Whats the trick to getting out the front and rear windows. I have a glass friend that says it will probably break!! Don't want to do that. Also are you painting the floor pans and rear deck with color or leaving it primer. I have thought about both, no reason for color but....... Also are you painting the engine compartment and under hood? How do feel about painting. I can spray primer but am a little worried. Of course if I F#$% it up then I just take it to the man anyway(after sanding the paint off!!)Great threads at good time to keep me psyched up!!! Wish I was driving instead of wrenching, buddy down the street with a 72 240 keeps driving by my house at full tilt when he knows I am under the car! Thanks again

Hey Yukon, thanks for the "real life advice". Its always a struggle between getting it back to the street or going too deep into resto. I want it to be right but I also want to get back in it before I pass into the great Z car boneyard!! One day I will get my pics posted!! Thanks again

Thanks for the tip. I wondered about how to get the POR into tight spots. The only thing that concerns me is that POR wants a surface that is "prepared". I have stripped the interior of the car and can look into the area above the liner and can see some surface rust that is starting, kind of runs with the seams. Believe it or not, my rocker panels are in good shape, but same deal, I can see surface rust on the interior of the rocker looking through the holes on the inside. Any ideas here? Will a media blasting guy have a flexible hose or something that will get down in those areas without cutting holes?

Hey guys, back at it. Haven't touched the Z in awhile, but couldn't do anymore paperwork for the man and jacked the Z up again. Quick one, how do I remove the inner rear fender liners. They are in good shape but I would like to remove them, hit the area with some media and POR it. Looks like the seam around the shock tower is spot welds but what is the best way to separate the fender lip area. Thanks, feels good to get dirty again!!

I agree with Carl, one picture of the passenger front wheel well almost shows a patch panel behind the tire(under battery area), but man oh man those floors pans look great!

Hey guys sounds like we are all in the same boat. I get too many good tips from all of the replies. Making my life simpler! One question, Zues how did you get that f#$% tar paper off the floor without tearing everything up worse? You got it very clean. I was thinking about putting some stripper on it to "soften" it up and then try to scrape it off. My passenger pan( and probably rail from Mikes reply) is shot, but the driver is like yours just surface rust. I wouldn't touch the driver pan on mine but I worry about rust being underneath the paper. Nothing is coming through the bottom. I'm also getting a rust spot between the jack compartments. Where is that coming from? Its been dry for a long time.

I'm glad I read these posts, I'm in the market for a new left fender also. And I had the VB catalog in hand! DKD gave your numbers to the local dealer and viola 187.00 no shipping, 3 days. How cool. The VB's were 169.00 plus shipping plus install pain. Thanks again

Thanks for the inputs, I guess its time to make decision so I can get on with all the messy stuff. See what you guys get me into. Glad the 220 is already installed! Now if the wife doesn't find out about the bead cabinet...

Thanks to all for the info, at least the steering wheel will look good!

Ok all, what is the best way to resto the steering wheel. Mine has that normal grainy dull, dirty look to it. Is it real wood, seems like some form of composite? Thanks in advance

I hear you man, thats kind of the way I'm leaning. Traded in all my Holiday Inn points for Home Depot cards, so that is where I will buy. Probably all made by Campbell Hausfield anyway. Thanks for the input

Hey guys, can anyone give some advice on air compressors? The old Craftsman 5hp 25 gal ain't cutting it. Looking at new compressor and wondered if I could get some real world experiences. I know bigger is better and I have narrowed it to two. Number one is 2 phase 80gal tank with 15 scfm. I know this one should blow the house down, but it just seems too big. The second choice is single stage 60 gal tank and 10.5 scfm(at 90 psi). My needs will be mainly da sander, sandblaster, grinders and want to get an hvlp spraygun. I am adding a bead cabinet(small one) shortly also. I can get the 2 stage, but if the single stage will do the job I can buy some more tools(it is half the price). So help! Will the single stage keep up or do I buy the monster!

Este, I feel your pain. I am at the same point with my 73. It seems the choices are go for broke, build a rotisserie, strip everything off and start with the sand blaster and welder. The flip side is to leave it on rolling bits and kind of work fromt the top down. One way gets you back to driving quicker but the other is more complete. I'm new to the web site also and when I read some of the advice from these guys it makes me want to do the whole resto. I'll be reading more replies to your thread. I want to use this as a good learning experience and but I also want to get the car back on the road. I have some rust on one rocker panel(probably both!), passenger floor and under the battery tray. I missed the other bad spots. Welder is here and new compressor and glass beader are on way(if wife doesn't get wise). These guys on the site have a lot of experience and have helped me already, keep posting and let us know where you go!