John Coffey

There's so much BS in this thread... Yes, the hand brake in a S30 can be used to stop the car at speed - if its properly maintained and adjusted. I've tested it at 40 mph on all of my S30s and a hard, fast pull on the handle will lock the rear wheels at that speed IF ITS PROPERLY MAINTAINED AND ADJUSTED!

Why would you need "hub extenders" to install the ZX wheels?

40% gloss.

If they are properly made and installed correctly you shouldn't have any issues other then an increase in scrub.

If you're brake pedal mounting bolt was loose, I would stop driving the car and do a full nut and bolt check on it. You've most likely missed tightening other fasteners.

Why are you attaching to cast aluminum? Maybe I've missed something on the oil pickup with the M6 engine. OK, I looked back at one of your pics. Aluminum tubing would be better... :-) Regarding grinding the welds - I'm a function over form kinda guy. A good weld is beauty in and of itself. And who's going to be looking at the oil pan anyway? Spend the time and money somewhere else on the engine. Also, you can grind too much and cause problems.

Don't grind the welds and don't use copper or solder for the pickup tube. Bend one out of thin wall steel tube. Test the pan for porosity using boiling water.

Take it apart and fix it. Its not going to get better until you do that.

I've towed Zs on trailers with Datsun 620 pickups and Ford F350 pickups. By far, the most important towing component is the driver. Don't be in a hurry, look far ahead, keep the towing vehicle and trailer in top condition, and buy new trailer tires every 5 years.

Al, Call Darryl about the L20B engine he purchased from you. Another opportunity to make things right.

Depending on the volume of work, we can handle it. But our main focus is restoration and specialty builds like the Peking to Paris 240Z.

Personally I would not wire a kill switch to oil pressure. If you're hard in a turn and the oil pressure drops you do not want the engine to shut off. That will send you off track. The impact switch mentioned above is a good idea.

I don't know.

I'm not interested in a part that I have to disassemble and fix right out of the box. I personally would not waste my time and money on one.

That's for the R180. The OP above asked about a unit for the R200. And yes, you can buy new from Quiaffe in the UK, an OBX from China, or find a used Nismo, Nissan Competition, or Powerbrute unit somehwere.

Take 16% off the price (8% seller and 8% buyer) and you'll get a rough idea of the non-auction value.

Yes, the booster is deleted using the bracket and Tilton balance bar I used to make and sell. It allows mounting of two master cylinders, one for the front system and one for the rear system. That, in conjunction with the balance bar and an adjustable prop valve for the rear system let me dial in the brake balance. Brake pedal pressure was perfect (for me).

The clevis's are welded to the strut tower and a plate on the firewall. It was all custom and is not available as a bolt-in. In general, bolt-in chassis reinforcement doesn't work that well. Lots of other custom work in the pic: Radiator mount Radiator Cooling system routing Cooling system overflow Intake manifold Throttle body CAI Brake MC bracket

Ha! OS Giken Super Lock part number NS046HA.

Here's how to do it:

The roll cage has probably kept the car straight from the firewall back. I assume the car is very bent up front. At a minimum it needs to be put on a frame machine to see how bent it is and if it can be pulled back. Pull the hood and fenders off the car, pull the engine and transmission, and tow it to a frame shop.

$1,950 is a good price if you don't have any skills.

Unitrax in Anaheim, CA.

Glad you made it out OK. Next time, two kill switches, one within very easy reach of the driver.