ez73

I have a 73 240z put some additional gasket material arounr rear hatch..I have to put pressure on hatch to close it(did this to get rid of fumes) lock worked for a while,now can,t get hatch open. Can turn the lock to the two positions but in the unlock position (perpendicular to car) there is no resistance just like locked position. The hatch is sticking up quite a bit looks like I might be able to unscrew the lock mounting bolts or perhaps cut them off. Tried taking off license plate light cover thinking there might be a way into lock,now cant put back on ,floating mounting nuts. The lock sometimes works inthe normal manner . The lock shop says the lock appears to be alright that the problem appears to be latch mechanism. Any ideas on getting hatch open? d*** Funk

nahurry just recently put a Facet elec fuel pump on my 73. There are two relays on the passenger kick panel. I traced the hot wire and ground from the factory location to the relays ,also traced the 20amp pigtail fuse at the fuse location ,I hooked those two wires together to bypass the relays since I dont have mech. f/p anymore. all the connections in that area are in harness connectors,are you wanting to know which connectors go where? Arent they all different or polarized? d***

Thanks for the thought Stephen looking at the gaskets knew it would not work z car has 3 hole gasket d***

I went to the club archives after this post. Two types of pumps pulse and gear (rotary?) my Facet is pulse. Holley blue top is not pulse (14psi/presure reg.) The old archives said holley red top is noisy, one guy recommends Mallory. I just bought the Facet yesterday ,the company didnt think the mfg. would take back with nothing wrong only noisy. Going to detach mtng. bolts and let hang for a test to see if this reduces noise. If so come up with some kind of hose mount. d***

my mechanical fuel pump on my 73 quit working and because of diffulty removing with the ac bracket and could not find a pump in stock of good quality, I put on an electric fuel pump. Ilooked all over town for a low psi (4.5lbs) type. purched a Facet box style pump. Installed it back at the tank where the original assist electric pump went (long dead) used the same mounting plate and was able to trace the electical wires to the relays and jumper them. My question is ,this type of pump clicks all the time and is kind of annoying. On the newer cars with pump in tank you only hear it pressureing up and never hear it again. During my search I ran across a Holley hi psi pump (14psi) with a pressure regulator ,looks like a good pump I would have needed a pressure guage to set it,and did not come with any soft hose fitting. Wondering if this is the same type of operateing system Anybody have any answers on this? d***

I acquired the car this last spring. It sat in storage since the late 80,s. the car had 67,000 miles on it.The previous owner(wife of a friend of mine) took it out a couple of times to service it etc. She replaced the mech. fuel pump with another in the late 80,s.Carbs all varnished up,had them taken apart and put new gasket kit in them.btw they are round tops off 72 or earlier. The chokes are set,and work fine.The mech. that did all the original work at Nissan said the nozzles might be a little loose letting in air. The spark plugs are new ngk the wires are new red heavy duty from Motorsport. cap and rotor not changed. There is gas in the filter in the morning.Car had two broken studs on exaust, had head taken off decarboned piston tops had head hot tanked,pressure tested ,cleaned up new turbo studs put on then put back together. Been starting with throttle part way opened,told tokeep throttle closed with choke on . this seems to help. Am in process of having starter rebuilt,want to keep original,will probable adjust valves after putting starter back on. d***

thanks for the reply carl .I made a mistake I talked to him today he gave me the correct spec.s (the factory specs .008 and .010 ) the engine is basically converted to a 72 no hot water .72 balance tube ,linkage no smog equipment no air injectors no smog pump temp sunday am was around 48 degrees I live in san bernardino calif thanks d***

my 73 240 (round tops) is very hard to start when cold. My mechanic nissan factory trained and certified,says valve adjustment is critical. Since no accelerator pump relies on vacuum. He gave lash at .006 and .008 book says .010 and .012 cold ,which is right? He is their #1 mechanic at this very large agency. Read several engine thread entries today and a lot of guys are adjusting them hot. I always thought it should always be done cold. he also said the carb nozzles looked a little worn . he put the carbs back on after they were rebuilt (mainly gasket carb rebuild kits). any advice on doing the valve lash adj. d***

thanks for replying Marty but the guage reads 2/3 full when filled to top and still has at least 40 miles of gas when the guage reads empty i don,t think adjusting the screw will fix my problem. How does one get the heater cables loose from the nacelle? when I had my stereo put in they unhooked one vent cable from the firewall area but did not take the faceplate off only moved it thanks d***

I have the same problem as 28zero. replaced the sending unit with factory unit. still did same thing read empty when quite a bit of gas left in tank checked out gauge by disconnecting and then grounding guage checks out alright been told by several people problem is in harness somewhere. my 73 was in storage since late 80s corrosion in harness probale behind guage is the problem this causes added resistance. going to try to take the glove box out see if i could get to gauge that way d*** aka ez73