Daniel

Also check your major truck repair shops.Alot of them rebuild them.

I would go new master cyl.While its down all rubber hoses and rear wheel cylinders.With good (new)pressure one of those would probably fail next.As far as the rotors,Years ago I bought nissian comp cross drilled rotors.When you hit the brakes the air movement makes them loudly go WZZZZZZZZZ.I never even wore the paint off them before I went back to standard.Oh their on the shelf any buyers??

Tonight I'm on the soap box.I wish to offer a few tips.1st,when you buy one of those kits that have the elec.connectors they come with the "tool" to do the job.It offers a screw cutting tool and a color code so you do it right(yeah).Those are crap!Notice they have no tooth to crimp as factory. Compare yours to what was.Any electric supply will sell a proper crimp tool.Its worth it.The other is just short of a plier smash.The problem of my new molex(those white multi-wire plugs)doesn't fit the new.We never want to cut a factory harness unless we know it is ABSOLUTELY the problem.I have made crossovers by using the single crimps that mate to the molex individual connectors.When you are satisfied it works. Line the inside of the molex with tape. plug in your singles. Fill with silicone.When it dries you can remove it if that time comes because the tape has formed a barrier. Cool huh?The other soap box issue is this.It matters not if you are working on a car or toaster--remember this --Odds VERY much favor it will fail wherever humans can/have touched it.Think about it.Extention cord ends.Lamp cord ends.Turn signal switches-etc etc .ALWAYS go where it is/has been touched first.As for the loose fuse issue.Once someone has forced a wire or one of those "cheater"deals that allow an additional wire on a fuse the holder is streached.In big electrics they make a clamp to squeeze the post to the fuse.I have had success with the tiny wire wraps to hold the post tightly to the fuse.Also when testing a fuse with a meter don't hold the tips with your fingers against the fuse.The continuity (path) can pass through your body! OK enough soap box....I'm better now <<<<

Here we go again throwing money and time at a problem.Is it the switch? Maybe.Alligator clip jumpers from radio shack are cheap testers.Bypass the switch as a test.As far as cutting a harness---NEVER--Always be able to put humpty-dumpty back together again!! at worst cut the end from the KNOWN!!! bad switch and use that pigtail to fashion a crossover cable.Rusty1 I like your line of repair.I would add that I was once taught that the glue that holds the sand to the paper will adhere to the item being sanded due to heat friction. It will become an insulator when current makes it burn(carbon).Therfore a small file or the proper burnishing tool(super fine file from electronic store)I use a fine metal diamond file I took from the wife. Don't do it on points either.Oh the shadetree mechanics are protesting now huh?

Does not blink mean no indicator light or it stays on solid? Solid usually means bad bulb.No indicator and a puff of smoke?Well ,The best answer I can give is back when I was a computer mainframe fixer the inside joke was this.They put "magic" smoke in the chipsets and the switches.If you let the magic smoke out----they don't work anymore!!

O.K. major tune up done huh? Knowing now that it likes cold starts and hates hot makes me wonder. First I'm not the efi man.I do have a 280zx book and maybe the parts didn't change much.They show a "thermotime" switch that lives in the thermo housing.It senses water temp and if cold supplies a voltage(via grounding) to the cold start valve.The cold start injects fuel.It is located in the fuel rail.I would unplug the cold start valve and try when hot.The sluggish doesn't want fuel may be cause its flooded.If it cranks you then know its somewhere between the thermotime and the cold start valve.I love good new parts but don't just throw them at the trouble.It cost like hell and you may add new troubles along the way. I now vote the car always thinks its cold thats why it cranks so well when it is and doesn't when its not. Let me know!

How does the car crank in the morning when absolutely cold?The car is not vapor locking.Thats a carb thing.I vote fuel pump or pump relay.You can buy a pressure gauge that goes on the fuel line.I think the number is 28lbs. that it should hold at all times.If the pressure drops it doesnt have enough pressure to pop open the injector.Or worse the fuel drains back to the tank and must be pumped back up.

I agree with your worry.The crankcase to valve cover was for reburn of those gases(pollution control).My 1946 chevy truck has a tube that just vents it out.Therefore my simple answer(or question as it were)If they knew the importance of a vent in 1946 ?????

The great B.B. King said it best."It's a shame lifes best lessons have to hurt so bad." Try this,Recall the events in your life that seemed to be what you thought of as the worst.Odds what was then viewed as a big negative is now viewed as a positive.The author Napoleon Hill calls that the "seed of equilivent benefit".Your negative seed has been planted.In time a positive will grow.It's hard but be kind.Anger will only confirm her decision and if you're not happy with yourself how can you expect anyone to be happy with you.

I think Tomo means the 280 type that have the low level wiring in the cap.

Those caps were used on various datsun products.The 510 would fit also some truck models.If bone yard parts are acceptable for you perhaps this will expand your search.

Check my thread titled"How do you find the value".Mine has all you require and more except for the A.C.I think I have that in a box.The jury is still out on if I sell or not until I find a true value.Let me know if I have sparked your interest.That could hurry me along.

So are these appraisors in the phone book? Is there a special something that certifies them? How do you know you can trust their work?

Yesterday I learned of a fairly new product.Ceramic pads.They look like the standard pad except are suppose to be more rotor friendly and the best is they put off VERY little dust.The wheel had not been washed in a month of daily driving.You could not see any dust and rubbing your finger across it ,it was hardly there.Anyone else hear of these?

Yeah 2mz's is on target.The fuel overflows from the hose on the top of the carb bowls that attach to the air cleaner.Find the wet hose and you know your problem.If you have the drain on the side of the bowl that may get the trash out.I have had luck tapping the carb bowl with the rubber handle end of a screwdriver.DO iT EASY!! That pot metal will crack.Trash seems to be the problem.If the lines aren't clean a rebuild will buy you nothing.

Where do these people keep getting this"original factory LEATHER interior".Their assumed intelligence of the car sure drops alot of points fast when that is read doesn't it?

Man!! Thanks guys for clearing that up. Do you have any idea how long you must puree' elephant in a blender to be able to pour it in that small valve cover hole!!! :stupid:

What is the "option leather hatch cover"?

Great find is right!! One use for the throttle that was over looked is starting from a dead stop on a steep hill with a car on your bumper! The 240's not that bad.My '46 truck has a throttle also.Now that comes in handy.The clutch pedal travels about 10"before it grabs.The brakes are great--so you are about 10" above the gas pedal.Sometimes that hand throttle really helps when you need that third foot!

use small funnel or tear a beer can in half and make a lip in it.Put some gas in the can and pour it into the overflows(the hoses on the carb bowls tops that go to the air cleaner)

I agree it looks like they didn't give much install help.I can't read many words on the attachment.Perhaps a larger photo of the configuration you have would help.Why do you need four kill locations?Also what is the volt/amp rating on the 4pole switch?

Those are great 2mz'!! I like the free gift one also.One real life thing thats sorta along those same lines is the airline prices.Ever notice they advertise something like---N.Y. to Miami--$100.00 the small print reads price listed is one way based on round trip.WHAT!!! I don't know how that could be legal. Oh,For sale-240z $1.00 priced based on buying car jack for $8,000.00.Maybe closer would be front half of 240 $1.00 based on buying rear half for $8,000.00

Perhaps "squat "was misunderstood.A car under acceleration pushes the rear end down.If you replaced only the front......Nuf" said...Thats kinda like replacing the left brakes only and wonder why it pulls.

Sounds like normal wear.Think about the motion of the car.Each gear makes the rear end squat.The front only squats that much during hard braking.The springs may have compressed a little.Shocks?Sure they also share in the squat.The springs are what really do the work.One euro term that I like is what we call shock absorbers,they call shock dampeners.That does seem more correct doesn't it?

Marty,perhaps it will settle.I also have the same euro springs.Before install I had two z friends tell me the 3/4 lower was not true.None had measured any difference.I run 215/60r14.From ground to the edge of the jack slot I measure 7.25 inches front and rear.I seem to recall doing a before and after measurement years ago when the work was done and there was no change.The 7.25 was from today.I don't remember if that was any different than the before/after of years past.