Daniel

Standard house power is single phase.Normal commercial/industrial is three phase.There is no two phase.

Hey Smokey!! Go fish!! There's one that should keep you awake at night!!

I can't speak of that system but,I have learned through the years exhaust is better left to the pro's with the correct tools.The old rust frozen bolts,rust in your eyes,and the fact I don't crawl on my belly like a reptile as well as I used too.The man with the correct tools will be half way done before you can get the jack stands in place.One more tip I have learned the hard way.Have the muffler clamps installed upsidedown from normal like this--U-.That way in the future when you do have to crawl under your car they don't hurt you. Daniel

They are a bitch!!In fighting with that and the dip stick tube I have found once the vise grips fail you must remove the oil pan and tap it out from the inside.I used a socket that fit the hole and hit the inside lip of the tube. Just a "what if"but,what if you put something that has very close to the same inside diameter into the tube.Drill a hole thru the tube and the insert,put a nail or such to act as a pin thru the hole.Fashion a slide hammer using dumbell weights or such on the pole you added.Just a thought. That tube is tapered.Once it moves, it will fall out.Its just that first movement. Daniel You could also add a radiator clamp behind the pin to reduce tearing.

Buy new bolts and have them plated.That way the chrome will match.About your concern about the new ones rusting ,remember they are 30+ years old.Add to that I doubt your redone Z will be exposed to anywhere near the weather that it has been in the last 30.

I think the stages has to do with pressure not voltage.I'm sure someone will enlighten us about that.As far as wiring requirement that will depend on the unit somewhat.Allow me to explain.People think that the reason for the circuit breaker is to protect the attached device(A/C,refrig,TV ,aircompressor etc.)The fact is it is to protect the wire that supplies the device.Most homegarage type compressors I have seen are usually 240v/15 or 20 amp. 20 amp =#12 wire =20a breaker.If the run to the panel is too long a voltage drop occurs.Then you may need to run #10 =30amp.This is not a complex as it appears,just read the info plate on the compressor to determine your needs.

I have posted the differences here before in detail.The short version is the lower amp is 240.The higher amp is 280.I would go 280.I don't think there is an external difference.No problem with the gauge.It's the perfect swap.One of the main reasons I like the 280 unit is more were made and they are newer.Therefore the the reman. units have have been through the reman cycle less times .They are usually more available and sometimes less expensive.Make sure yours doesn't just need brushes.Thats a simple fix and you don't have to take the unit apart.

The last paragraph of your post says it all.Learn to fix it yourself.Read a book,take a class,If you're young enough get a summer job at a garage.The education will save you a lifetime of grief.Not to mention if you can work with your hands you can always find work.Knowledge is freedom.

If the rubber brake lines have never been replaced or your not sure if they have--ITS TIME.If the rear wheel cylinders have not been replaced there is a good chance thats your problem.I would suggest replacement of them instead of the rebuild kits.If the brake shoe adjusters on the rear wheel cylinders is not working the first pump could be putting the shoe in proper position,the second puts it against the drum and makes you stop.When the brake is at rest the shoe pulls back to the "too far" position.Then you must double pump again.

Once again we need more specific info.Tried to bleed them?What does that mean?The better the question the better the answer.

The coolant thru the manifold is for areas of extreme cold.KInda like a preheater.It does not perform a cooling function in that area.In warmer areas it can create a problem because you don't need the heat it supplies on a hot summer day.Mine has been by- passed since the late 70's.No problem.You might be better off by- passing than allowing that crud access to the important areas that really need cooling.

Smokey,Your post read something like I wanted a 240 But,now I'm looking at a 260.Don't get caught up in the moment and buy something other than exactly what you want.It does appear nice,but give serious thought as to why you changed your mind or you could be the next guy witha Z for sale after only 6 months.What you want is out there.Just keep fishing.

When you turn the key it sends 12v to the coil for a hot spark to start the car.When the key is released (run position)The 12v travels thru a different wire that passes thru the ballast resistor.This resistor is a strip of stainless steel in most cars.It doesn't conduct as well as copper wire and therefore causes a voltage drop.This drop is to extend the coil life by not allowing it to run at maximum output all the time.For test purposes you can wire across it therefore taking it out of the circuit.Some post I have read say "car won't start,replaced ballast resistor"Now we all know that is an incorrect diagnosis. Have fun!! Daniel

Could the clock be bad and killing the battery? Sure.That's been beat to death.I wish to offer a new thought.I bet the guy went thru the glove box to install the clock.I put my money on the glove box light is shorted or not turning off.Take the bulb out if it works and see if that helps.Since you aren't going anywhere until the snow melts,Pull the fuse that runs the clock.Thats easier than pulling wires.From that point pull a couple of fuses and let the car sit until your known trouble point(2-3 day period).Reinstall the fuses and try to start it.This test will point you to the trouble area in an easy fashion. Have fun!! Daniel

Hit the key=starter is turning.NO elec.fuel pump.When I ask cold I mean the car not the outside temp.Does the problem occur after Each time?days?hours? months? of not starting it.If the fact a battery booster/charger solved your problem then,I did not understand the question.Can you perhaps be alot more clear on your question?

How cold is cold?Overnight?Afternoon?When my Z hasn't been cranked in a month or so I put on the choke hit the key for about 5 seconds.Next I put on my seat belt,usually roll down my window,release the emer brake.Then when I hit the key VROOOMMM.Are you certain your chokes are working fully and correctly?

Lets see your plastic fan gave 30+/- years of no trouble.So be cause you never checked it and it failed,you now want to add wire ,fuses,thermostat relays,and a motor that can fail in an instant.I don't see the benefit.

While cleaning under the hood on my300Z I noticed little spider web looking lines on the plastic fan.Close inspection showed that there were little hairline cracks all over it.A nissan tech said it was common from years of heat. I have a metal fan on my 240.They say the plastic,being lighter ,causes less wear on the water pump bearing.At least it drips before it fails.I like metal.

The soap does work.The gloves are good to a point.Sometimes you do need the feel.I have a trick I wish to share for those that cook.This also will remove gas smell from your hands.Run your hands under cool water.Next rub them on your stainless steel sink.Onion,fish,tobacco etc. smell is gone.Some cook shops sell metal squares for about $10.00 .They are Stainless steel.Don't buy a hunk of sink when you already have it!!

You won't regret it!! They stay shiny and wipe clean/look great. Eric I was told that by holding the heat in it weakens the header metal.After seeing my results and yours I can't help but agree.

Your photo looks too familiar!!Yes,I have had that happen.The ceramic is the way to go. Daniel

I'll get a photo tomorrow.It's that short linkage rod that connects the carbs to the throttle stuff that mounts on the carb balance tube.When you use the one I mentioned from the 280 and bend it kinda like a hockey stick it changes the action.The 240 kinda goes down then left.Thats the problem.The hockey stick fix(think we now have a name)Cause's the action to always go left.I think the part is 280zx.It's been years ago but,for awhile I was making them for alot of guys.I would raid the boneyards for that zx part.

I fought a similar demon once.The problem was the fork that rides on the release bearing was not on correctly in its groove.It was kinda half right.The top fork was in,the bottom was behind the groove.The bitch is you have to slide the tranny back to correct it.You can look into the slot where the clutch fork goes in to check this. Have fun!! Daniel

I wondered when this would come up.The problem is the linkage part that attaches the carbs to the assembley on the balance tubes.It's about 5" with the snap white balls on it.If you look close you see that the entire assembly is almost a straight line when at rest.When you apply the gas you have to "break" from straight.Thats your surge.The fix I made was to use the firewall linkage part from a 280z,it might have been zx.Anyway you'll know when yousee it.It has an adjustment on it .It's the piece that goes from the firewall mount to the gas pedal linkage.I put a small bend in the part,then adjusted it so the length is the same as the 240 part, it is just curved now.When in place the straight line is now gone and so is the surge.I hope I am clear if not let me know. Have fun!! Daniel

Victor,I have also had that trouble.Of course one would think just removing the knob would would answer the question,but the weight or lack of really messes up the test.I have even had the solid knobs become noisey.