Daniel

Unless you are knowledgeable in honing out and polishing the interior of the cylinder,I would suggest buy a unit that is reman or new.Perhaps your luck is better than mine.I tried the rebuild route on wheel cylinders,master and clutch cyl.I think I had about a 60 percent success rate.They all worked great for a short time then failed.Myself,I don't waste my time on that anymore.At least a reman has some warranty.If you install a kit and it fails you are back in your pocket.I'm sure you understand when I say you darn sure want every chance that master cylinder is as correct as it can be!!!

Sorry for getting long today.The meter will have an adjustment on it to vary the flow to the gauge.This will allow you to "tame"the meter to the middle range.When doing faster rpm test you do it again because you are pegging the meter with more airflow.Did you take the tops off "the carb bells"and clean the piston and housing?Nice to start fresh or you'll do it often.

You have to follow the steps exactly to set tune the carbs.I'm glad to read that you're not afraid of them and are more familiar.I followed the haynes book instructions for years and one day it was like the light bulb came on and I understood the need for each step.As for the center of the sync gauge.I would assume your meter would need to be in the center also,thats a guess.I would keep perfecting your skills on the tune.A colortune my help but if you are just turning screws and knobs hoping to get it correct I doubt it would provide much benefit.No shortcuts,Take the steps from the top and keep practicing.Thats how everyone else learned.You can't help but get better each time!AS for the knarl nut.Remember the needles that are attached to the piston are like a "v" they seat into the tube that the knarl nut raises or lowers.The lower you go the more fuel is give at idle.The more you raise it the deeper the needle goes in and therefore less fuel is given at idle.Thats why the choke causes the tubes to drop.That makes it richer..When the car is given the gas the pistons rise so high that at that point the knarl setting has little effect.Thats when the other adjustments come into play.

In 1988 my wife worked witha girl that had a new '88 maxima.She broke the antenna off in a carwash.I got the part from nissian and she paid my wife.She was to get together with me for the replacement.She then had a leak at the windshield and tried to fix it with black silicone.Ugly looking job.She then left the job and we didnt hear from her again.Now here it is 2003 and a friend comes over last night and wants to show me the maxima he bought to drive while redoing his 240.Its not bad he says except someone did an ugly job trying to repair a windshield leak.I bet the antenna is broken I said.How did you know he replied?'Cause I have the replacement mast in my toolbox!!!The repair that was started in 1988 was completed last night.Small world huh?What are the odds?

I fill mine up to just below the lip of the piston that you see when you look into the top.When you put the sticks back in it will push out any excess.I use marvel mystery oil or autotranny fluid every now and then because the excess that runs out cleans the gunk from the piston body.I also have replaced my sticks and carry the old ones in my car.I heard of a guy once that one of the plastic screw tops broke and left him stranded.AS we know you would never find a replacement in a hurry unless you had it with you.

I hate to add salt to the wound but,I think those faces are keyed to the unit.That way you can't interchange them.My thoughts are the factory will send you a complete refurbished/factory repaired complete unit in exchange for your less than --plus some cash.They roll off a line all day long.Its cheaper, easier and faster to swap than worry about your individual unit for repair.

Since we know the pcv attaches to the block and works as a on/ off valve..There is a smaller hose that connects to the monster block breather.That upon quick inspection I believe to be a connnection for the vent side of the fuel rail.My question is when the pcv toggles on/off,that would cause a change in vacuum on that return-------Right?perhaps it helps ?Maybe?

somewhere is a connection to the brake booster.

Thats the first 240 I have seen with a rear wiper!

I have a friend that vented his hood back when it was the fad.His thoughts are that it looks great!The down side is If you get into rain the water WILL run into the engine It will cause rust,running problems.Spray your engine with a hose and go for a ride.The other was dust entry into the engine compartment as well as cleaning the darn little slots!!Getting wax out is a big job.Garage queen-no problem.Daily driver= hours of enjoyment if you like cleaning your Zcar:love:

It is a positive crankcase vent.It goes from that piece you showed to the big vent tube that comes out of your block,under the dist.Its job is to suck out the gas/vapor that build up in the block when the car is cold.My understanding is that not using it will cause gunk to build in your engine and reduce the lube properties of the oil( as gas mixed with oil is).It sucks that vapor out and reburns it.

Thats almost like one of those questions from the IQ test you sent me Keith. The chokes are Closed when the handle is toward the rear. They are off/open/not in use when the handle is forward.

The first item of course is fuel filter or filters.I had to say it.The next item is the air filter.I had a friend that his foam air cleaner would restrict flow.A test without would verify that.Plug gap incorrect I have also seen cause this.Sorry for so little help.Has the car ever run correct or is this new?What changed?

When the cars were new and would break a cable the shop would put the car on a lift.Get a lot of socket extentions.Go from the bottom and remove the screws that hold the latch to the hood.

I once was in Denver Colorado looking at a car.I was shocked to find it was MORE expensive for me to rent a U-haul and drag it home myself than to pay a carrier.

What you suggest on the shifter seems workable.A thought I would offer is this.I can't tell how thick the wall of the shifter would be after you drill into it.What if you thread the outside and add a coupling to attach the shifter.That way if it ever has thread wear you can always retap to a smaller size and coupling.With the internal threads I don't think you could go larger and you stand a chance of tearing the metal around thehole.If the internal threads fail you're off to the bone yard for another shifter to cut down.External you can fix it in the car.Do my thoughts seem correct?

As a lifetime mechanic friend says--Do you want to open that can??Just installing the motor will open more unknown cans before that task is done .Then you can drive the car.You may still open that other can at any time.Buying those other items is just the start.Then you should be thinking the "while you're there"I want new bushings,u joints shocks etc.Myself I love it when I can drive my car.Even if it sits in the garage for months,I know I can go anytime.If it's down I bust my butt until all is well.That said -Do you want to open another" can' with the engine out "can "still open?

A couple of tips Mark the position of the driveshaft to the rearend flange before removing.I have read that they are balanced at the factory and I like to keep the same position as they were.Also I would suggest just dropping that end of the shaft as a removal will allow the tranny fluid to pour out and you may damage the old seal upon reinstall.

I would rather remove the console than the heater panel any day.I stack up wood at the rear of the console to hold the angle needed to then unscrew the choke.Hold the choke tight until both screws are removed.We don't want to stress the remaining screw support.Tape the screw to the screwdriver when reinstalling.After your sure it is threaded good pull down and the tape will release.Then finish the tightening--Gently!!Tip.With the console out go around the choke screw supports with JB weld as thats where they snap off.The extra strength can help extend the life of it.

There is no reverse syncro.Put the car in first (which has one)Then reverse.That stops the grind.I remembered pulling a friends tranny when I was young because of shifting problems.We took it to the shop and the guy said--Looks good what did the fluid look like?.We just looked dumb at each other.There was none in it.We reinstalled and put in fluid.He drove the car another 10 years or so with no trouble.

The quick answer is ALT.I've had that also.I would suggest cleaning the battery terminals on BOTH ends battery/car to ensure the battery had a clean path to charge also is the alt belt just loose?Did the fuse or fusable link just get old and weak and burn up?.Should the alt not be the answer next would be voltage reg.My first thought is that you are just throwing parts at the problem in hopes of a fix,I wish you the best luck, and if it hasn't been replaced it would be a suggested future project anyway.That doesn't mean I would continue my troubleshooting in that fashion unless you have VERY deep pockets.Replace the belt also.While you're there----

Alot of dash work has been posted lately.I wish to offer some food for thought. If you have ever taken the AMP/FUEL from a 240 thru the glovebox it is a pain and its the easy way!! The 280's had a pigtail(screwed to gauge to plugable wiring harness connector about 6 inches long).They learned the error of the hand through the gauge hole holding gauge/wrench from glove box(what the hell would a lefthander do?).I would suggest adding a pigtail to the AMP guage given the chance.You will pat yourself on the back at a later date.Years from now you will want to remove it and that wrench behind the dash will twist the gauge post or at a minimum crack your dash with your hand thru the holeUnplug it and go to the bench.HMMMMM

Alot of the little intermit issues that drive you crazy can be fixed.Switches must be exercized.Why does the little brake switch work for so many years yet that under hood light needs a couple of flips before it functions correctly(until the next time).The better switches make contact at a slight angle as to scrub the contacts clean when used.Your parents always said "don't twist the knob off that!!"You should!!.300z's are bad about radio static when you move the volume control.With the car off.Spin the knob from min to max until you get bored.If it slides--slide it. if it clicks--click it.I work the over head light door switch by pushing it in and letting it pop out --nice fresh ground path (battery disconnected,don't want to do a fuse test!).When was the last time you worked that dimmer switch for the dash?.This works on all devices TV's home stereo,Work them all.Let me know what you fix!

ERRR--- AHHH---O.K--5 choices. Welcome Zbabe.I like your line of thinking.

Two choices.1)the emer brake switch is bad or such.Disconnect one side of the switch to see if it turns the light off.2)The 280 I think has the master cyl.switches in the caps.Check the wires/connectors and Look inside the caps for A stuck float or however those switches work.See if they feel the same when you move them.Disconnect one at a time to see if the light goes off.Remember those/that master cylinder switch has not been used in a long time easy to believe it stuck.Work it by hand a few times