ZCurves

Coolant is a very interesting thought. For the last 25 years I have used ATF. Heat dissipation is one of ATF's most important qualities. I may have to rethink the coolant trick though.

The clearance inside the car is not that generous, any kind of U-Channel that you might devise could have you bumping your head! I would suggest concentrating on performing the roof transplant -which is heavily documented in this forum.

Thanks man!

I have had this reproduction JDM license plate for a while and was wondering what its says in English. Can anyone assist with a translation or meaning of the various symbols?? Thanks.

Jim, You should upload your spreadsheet to the 'Downloads' area for others to use. It sounds like a great tool!! Look for where it says 'Add File' at the top.

First, re-read what Z train wrote earlier. It is going to take lot's of time and $$$$. You have to survey what you've got. Look over the body, look over the interior. Use a Laptop, get a beer and then start making notes in a Journal for every detail and the condition of all of the components (that you notice). This Journal will be a 'Living Document' so you will be adding notes about what you find and correcting and deleting other areas as you go. Does the motor run? How does it run? Does the AC work? Write all of this information down in the Journal -because you will not remember it later.:stupid: Get a digital camera and take loads of pictures of EVERY FRIGGIN THING BEFORE you touch it. Take lots of close up pictures and take into consideration the position or 'Clocking' of components -especially under the hood. Get a Sharpie and some ID labels\tags and when the time comes to remove ANY wires make sure that you label what it goes to. Abbreviations suck, write the name if you can. If you are going to be removing/rebuilding the engine, Now is NOT the time to be wasting money and effort in trying to get it started. Plan on breaking the restoration into FOUR manageable areas. These are Suspension and Brakes, Body and Paint, Engine, Fuel (and Drive-line), Interior and everything else. Your restoration should also follow in that same order -assuming that the Engine and Transmission are removed so you can paint the engine bay. Prioritization is the key to success. When you begin to take things apart, put the screws back into the component they came from. This way, they will be there when you are putting everything back together. When you encounter a stuck bolt or some difficulty, STOP and take your time. Ask questions to the forum. You may need to let it go for a while and come back to it later when you have a cooler head. The Journal, The Hundreds of Pictures that should have taken - along with a Factory Service Manual (FSM) will be your key to re-assembly. Download the Fuel Injection Bible. Do not be afraid of asking lots of questions. Knowledge is power, which is why we are all here.

If you are getting plenty of fuel, the I would check the TPS and the AFM. Look in the downloads section (top toolbar) and get the Fuel Injection Bible and check your settings. Backfire on acceleration, etc. has me thinking the AFM needs testing.

From reading your post, I do not think that running a block or two will kill ya. It does not take much at all to peg the temp out. You would have immediately noticed hard starts, rod knock, and/or steam at the exhaust from a warped head or blown gasket. I would suggest that you change your oil at the very least and look (listen) for any of the previously mentioned symptoms of damage. Your oil certainly was 'Stretched' by running at that temp - besides a change is cheap (considering).

Aside from the other advice, sometimes Starters can get a short on the stator. Occasionally, the short lines up just right and then you get nothing. The Solenoid is more likely to be the culprit anyway - you could cleanup the starter and replace the Solenoid and see if things improve.

Acetone will simply evaporate. You need something with some hang-time, that is why I suggested the paint stripper. Make sure to keep it off of the paint on the car!!

You may have seen my posts on the Proportioning Valve. It is an important component that a lot of folks just overlook. If you are going to all of this trouble, it is advisable to take the time and clean this dude out.

You could try to put some paint stripper on the glue with a small paint brush, then using a small regular screw driver, start chipping away. Be VERY PATIENT and careful with the rubber and the chrome strip. You should expect to place some silicone sealant under the rubber on the glass side after you remove the mounting hardware.

I just tacked the Heat Shield in places and then installed the carpet kit over it. I applied the QuietCar inside the Quarter Panels and inside the Doors. After the QuietCar had cured (5 days), I also mushed several dollops of silicone gel between the door skin and the Impact Bar inside each door which makes the doors shut like a bank vault. Finally, I used some Heat-Shield scraps on the rods that actuate the door mechanism and door handles - Little inch wide strips down each rod. No rattles, No tinny sound.

I used the same thing! I painted EVERYTHING before I laid this down - and I only tacked it in a few places with 3M Super 77. Tacking allows moisture to escape if needed. The Transmission Tunnel is what gets the hottest so I used it there and the floorboards, etc. For the Firewall I used this sheet insulation similar to the tube pipe insulation you can find at a home improvement store. I also used QuietCar for sound deadening which turned out perfectly, the doors are tight and snug. Big Difference. I have to mention that this material is Conductive! (not QuiteCar) - So watch loose wiring!

FYI - I just went to the Precision website and it looks like some slim pickens (and I am not talking about the actor). I suggest that folks call.

Precision Replacement Parts - www.prp.com 1-800-367-8241 You have to create a user account to see the different kits (which I think is stupid). Here's a thought. You might look at all the vendors and then see what the $$$ would be to "Make your own kit"... buy a little here, a little there...

Today!

I cannot speak for the contents of the current Precision Kit, mine came with a Hatch Seal. It seams that the current Precision Kits have a lot more in terms of Inner Door, Cowl, etc. As for my Hatch Seal problem, I am not sure whether it was not correct or if I installed it wrong or what. The material they use has always been top notch. The point was that I was uncomfortable with it and I did not feel that I should have to slam my hatch shut, thats not what Nissan intended. A quality replacement part should, well, work -right? What I can say is that I had several long discussions with Precision, they replaced the seal and helped me better understand how to install it - seems that some folks install them upside down (I had not) . Precision is very interested in making good products and keeping you happy. That was pretty good customer service by my book.

Be nice everyone, this is not the Jaguar Forum !! hrvat - I strongly suggest you purchase a Color Wiring Diagram from Prospero's Garage. http://www.colorwiringdiagrams.com/index.html, find the Datsun-Nissan link on the left. You will need Datsun Z2 -- Datsun 240Z (S330) Series I. It will be the best $20 you will spend on your Z (at least for now). These things are Big (11x17), Laminated and have a Money Back Guarantee. I don't push a vendors products unless I have personally benefited from their use/service. With the Rats Nest of wiring that you have, this will be a much needed resource. (Maybe I should be getting a commission?)

You can certainly come by. I need to post pics of what I did so others can see. I did install an Expansion Valve but would prefer the Orifice Tube if I were going to do it again. There are AC specialty shops that could make up a line to use a Ford or GM Orifice Tube. You could be the Orifice Tube guinea pig :classic:. As for the clocking of the fittings on the Drier, mine are off a little -but that is no problem. You will have to remove the mounting flange though, but it is just tacked on -then you use the OEM Datsun bracket.

Related to what Cozye was saying - When I was rebuilding my engine, I took the Fuel Rail and brazed in a Ford fuel pressure fitting so that I could easily run the 3M cleaner through this port as well as check the fuel pressure. It comes in handy to check pressure without having to pull any lines, etc. I use an Actron Fuel Pressure Test Kit - CP7818 to monitor. http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16174 Attached is a stock drawing of the setup. I'll see if I can take a pic of my install.

I agree that Vintage may have a better fit on some of the rubbers, but I do not think that it is worth $1,350.00. I went with Precision, but that was a while ago (and I do not think VR was even around). I have been satisfied overall - except with the Rear Hatch, but they made good on that for me. Get lots of opinions - that way you'll be comfortable whichever you choose.

Dave, I am like you, I have a half dozen cores. I know that you can get a nice rebuilt one from Advanced Auto for ~$110.

I believe that you have become a mad scientist . I have read many of your problem solving techniques (my favorite being the Yogurt cup) and I am convinced that you are a mad scientist or a distant relation to Rube Goldberg. What is fun is that they all work! Great Ingenuity!! Please post pics.

Do What SteveJ said, Then GO SLOW, take your time and only work on ONE problem area at a time.