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That's interesting...I have a 71 (11/70) 240Z with sway bars mounted F&R. The rear bar is mounted in front of the differential, not behind it. I have a photo of the car when it was supposedly modified by BRE. That might explain the anti-sway bars, R180 LSD w/4.11 R&P, 5 speed gearbox (non-dogleg), etc. I'm still trying to learn what is original and what is modified.

I want to upgrade to CV halfshafts on my 71 240Z. The rearend is a R180 LSD with 4.11 r&p. From searching, I've concluded that diff must be from a later vehicle (possibly truck?) because such a carrier was unavailable in the early years(?). Can I determine whether the flanges (that go into the diff housing) are snap-in or bolt-in without any disassembly or is that the only method?

I'm doing the full disc conversion on my 71 Z and want to get to the right parts first time out. The front will be the 280ZX/300ZX combo and the rear will be MM kit with 240SX calipers. I live near East Coast Z Center and will pick up the 280ZX pieces there. Never been there before but going in the next day or two to check it out. Another question, is $100 for these front calipers and hangers a reasonable price?

I'm soooo tired of searching all of the Z sites without hard fast results. It seems that most questions get sidetracked with opinions or preferences and ultimately the original question never gets a viable answer. Okay, enuff of my ranting... I have a 71 240Z with a 4.10 limited slip R180. I've climbed under the car and looked as well as rotating tires and counting driveshaft rotations. It is in excellent condition and I have no interest in swapping it out for a R200. One of my outer U-joints is failing and I would like to convert to a CV setup, if possible. I cannot find a viable step-by-step procedure to do this if one even exist. If not, the other option will hopefully be to use HD U-joints like those produced by CTM should the size required be produced. They are very expensive and used almost exclusively by the competition rock crawlers. These U-joints do not have bearings but are sleeved instead. Bottom line, is there a doable CV swap that will allow me to keep my R180? Is so, could someone provide the vital information? Many thanks..

Was it worth it? Did the comfort quota go up dramatically? I will go this route to keep the stock seats or look for alternatives (Miata, Prelude, etc.) if the cost and trouble of the new foam isn't worth it.

Is this factory or aftermarket A/C? I might be interested in it.

My 71 Z has the original springs and struts. It rides like it too. Add the severe lack of cushion in the seats and it makes for a rough ride. I plan on replacing the foam insets with those found on Ebay (Datsun Restore or Intense). Before we go any further, has anyone used these inserts? Was the difference worth the money? Okay, back to the suspension. I don't race on the track or the street. I don't need OR want a bone jarring ride and slot car handling. I do want to lower the car though. I'm leaning towards the Eibach Pro-kit for the progessive springs. I'd thought about coil-overs but Don at Ground Control said he would recommend the lowering springs they offer(?). No other info has been provided as to rates, spring type, etc. I'll also be replacing struts. The Tokico HP's sound good but the Illumina's set to 1 might be better(?). Eibach is marketing a pro-damper strut for their springs but I've heard nothing of them. Bottom line is to lower the car, give as comfortable a ride as possible and do it only once. I need suggestions to acheive this or a close compromise based on real world experience?

Was there particular reason for using the 280ZX rear calipers up front vice the 280ZX front calipers?

On the note of two struts vice one, can this be done to the eazly Z? Has anyone upgraded using later Z struts and brackets?

After hours spent searching for brake upgrade info for my '71 240Z (on many websites) I've come to the following list of parts to suit my purpose. FRONT- 79-82 280ZX front calipers and hangers 84-up 300ZX front vented rotors (non-turbo 4 lug) REAR- 88-90 240SX rear brake calipers and hangers 81-84 Maxima caliper brackets (bolt-on & assuming these are from rear) 84-up 300ZX rear non-vented rotors (non-turbo 4 lug) Brake hoses ???????? 79-82 2180ZX master cylinder (15/16" bore) The only thing no one mentions is what flexible brake hoses are needed. Can I use the original (or new replacement) hoses or is another required due to fitting differences? Obviously, braided lines are better but I'm trying to discern the basic information. Anyone who has actually done this conversion please speak up. I also know I can order the rear brackets from Ross and may very well do so. The problem seems to be that no one gives very specific data as to which parts (year/model of vehicle, front or rear location, etc.) are needed. Photos would be nice too (I'll be taking pictures of every part and installation to post). It would benefit many Z owners looking for better brakes. There is also the Toyota 4x4 caliper and stock disc but I personally think a vented rotor is superior if you're going through the trouble so I've left that out in this post. Most of us would gladly bolt on a high dollar pre-fabbed kit if we had the extra money. I don't have unlimited funds (single dad with a young daughter, fiancee with kids) so daydreaming about such niceties is pointless. Can we somehow come to one post with all the pertinent info available? Thanks and sorry if it seems like I'm on a rant.

My 240Z was restored by it's PO. I'm plagued by the notorious exhaust fumes when driving which appears to worsen with the windows down. I know the hoses/grommets that come up through the body to the recovery tank are a big source of these vapors and must be addressed soon. One other thing I've noticed is the rear hatch is not flush with the body, on the drivers side, when closed. It can be assumed that the gas strut is forcing this edge upward(?). While driving, I'm guessing the hatch is pulled upward by negative pressure and possibly causing a leak as the gasket sealing in reduced or compromised helping to introduce exhaust gases. That said, is there any way to properly adjust the rear hatch such that it fully closes on both side of the car? Whew, that was a long winded diatribe...

I have a set of MM Z to Honda adapters I purchased months back. Well, I just got around to swapping the wheels off my 94 Honda Accord to my 71 Z. The problem is the bolt patterns are apparently the same. I was always under the impression that Honda wheels were 4x100. My Honda appears to be 4x114.3(?). Has anyone else run into this problem? I need a set of +40mm spacers but indentical wheel pattern as my Z. I've E-mailed Ross in hopes of some resolution but I fear I'm out that $200+ and will need to locate another set of spacers.

I'm looking to pad my THIN '71 240Z seats. I can only find foam seat inserts at MAS or Datsun Restore. The prices are $86 and $90 respectively. I assume these are the identical product both sell. Are these two sources my only option? Alternately, is there a later seat that fits properly and is cost effective? I don't race my Z and am only looking for comfort and style to match the period of this car.

Thanks for the feedback. The RX-7 pump sounds like the ticket. I don't care to drop big money on a fuel pump because of the label. When it's in I'll post my firsthand opinion.

I'm running a stock electric diaphrapm pump in the back of the car feeding regulators for the SU's up front. All of this on my '71 240Z 2.4 with mild work. It runs fine but I'm fed up with the drumming noise of the fuel pump! I do like the anti-theft properties of this arrangement however. I've read through post after post without finding a definative solution as to what pump I want to use. I'd like to use a rotary/gerotor type pump which will eventually feed tripple Dellortos. At $50 to $150 per pump, I don't want to experiment with my bank account. Can someone whom has actually used said product provide a make/model pump that is quiet and fits the bill? :stupid:

I have a 71 240Z dash that I'll let go. Complete it will be $375 plus shipping. Stripped down it will be $275 plus shipping. There are no cracks and only a couple of the smallest of indentations around the heater control area from storage. So small that in the dark confines of a Z it would only be desernable by feel not sight. I'm on the East Coast in SE Virginia. If you are interested just let me know. I can provide photos via E-mail.

I confess that I've not climbed under my '71 240Z to look at the rear of the transmission which might give an indication of what I have. The car is bone stock but there is a 5 speed transmission. Having only driven a '82 Nissan truck there is nothing I can compare it to. The cars pull smoothly through all gears with no noticable dispartity between any gear. I've driven a lot of 4 & 5 speeds and know about large jumps between gears such as in my NV4500 truck tranny.The console also has a small metal plate affixed with two screws showing the shift gate pattern. It appears to be quite old and original. The only noticable problem is engaging 1st gear. It requires being stopped and pulling the shifter into 2nd gear then slipping into 1st. The prior owner feels the tranny might have been a transplant from a late 60's/early seventies sedan? I know 5 speeds were available in the Euro market at the time so maybe one of these trannies made it to the states for the conversion?

I spoke with a few people locally that have show quality cars for a body shop worthy of repairing the Z. The overwhelming response was Knox Automotive near Suffolk, Virginia. I spoke with the service manager, Rob Moore, who estimated proper repairs at $752.00. The repairs will be done with hammer and dolly to save the original sheetmetal. There is some minor welding required where the front lip was actually torn. He was involved heavily in Z's in their hey day and knows them intimately. I can't turn the car over to the shop until Nov 8th because of scheduled work and his vacation. He doesn't want the car touched until he's available to personally supervise it's repair.

My '71 240Z (HLS30039939) still has the original struts and springs. The ride is not the best and the rear sags slightly. I intend to replace these pieces in the immediate future. I don't expect a ride the quality of my Accord but would like overall improvement. Seems that the cost differences between struts/springs and coilovers are not enough to sway me either way. I'm not looking for a kidney killer suspension. What combination would you recommend for a daily driver (sunshine only) that isn't rally raced? I was considering the european springs but don't know if they're available. Coilovers are very interesting because I can set ride height and rake easily. Please reply with specific part numbers if possible. Thanks everyone!

Thanks for the feedback... I'll be collecting bits and pieces as time allows. If anyone here has the Nissan caliper brackets available and for sale let me know. I'll be replacing the bearings anyhow and it would be prudent to do everything at once. Plus, I hate the idea of trashing the good backing plates.

I was reading with interest the front and rear disc brake upgrade written by Terry Oxandale at www.zhome.com/rnt/FordPower/BrakeUpdate.html. Has anyone else tried this? It sure sounds like a straight forward and cost effective approach to 4 wheel disc brakes. I have looked at the commerically available kits (Outlaw, Arizona, MM) and feel that the cost is reasonable for items provided but more than is needed or necessary for a street driven 240Z. I like the idea of using all Nissan parts too for maintanance purposes.

Thanks for the lead, JMARK. Yeah, it was VERY stupid of me to put the car (and my welfare plus those around me) to such a test. The entire body is rock solid...very rare to find it in such condition. There were also photos of the car taken by the prior and present owners showing the overall condition of the vehicle. I climbed under and over the car prior to taken delivery and undertaking a 500 mile road trip. I would have replaced the tires anyhow but they did look good and after a hundred miles I'd looked them over as well as checking under the car for leaks, etc. Outside of the blowout the car performed flawlessly (well, except for the high idle rpm's which appears to be a sticky SU). I have a set of Wanli 215\45R17's mounted on Racing Hart C3's to go on the car when I've purchased my wheel adapters. There's also the Dellorto tripples to compliment the Crane cam and 2.5" exhaust. I'll drive it like this for a while then maybe consider a LS1 conversion. I've already got one of these going into my 71 88"wb Land Rover. I'll finish that before I consider another major project.

I had looked over and under the car throughly. Everything critical was in excellent condition. The only obvious problem underneath was a very small puncture hole in the LH tierod boot (apparently from contact with a smal branch or other debri on the road). The tires had ample tread and no noticable checking from age. Tire pressure was checked as were lugnut torque prior to leaving. There was no reason to assume anything was iffy or questionable. Had it been so, I'd have put tires on the car before pulling out. Looking back on it I can only be grateful that it didn't occur at high speeds or cruizing through the mountain passes. It isn't likely that I'd be hear to tell the tale otherwise. :dead: I travel to Annapolis to meet my girlfriend (out of Philly) often. What shop(s) would you recommend?

As read in my post 'Of all the bad luck...damaged already', I am in need of sheetmetal to make a proper repair of the quarter panel. Does anyone have a source or a panel that is good metal in the lower sections for patchwork?

See my post "My new 71 240Z toy". I flew into Knoxville TN Friday to pick up my car. Other than a few minor imperfections I was well pleased with the purchase. Driving a Z for the first time was incredible to say the least. This car ready moves and pulls strong even in fifth gear. Saturday morning I head out onto I-40 for the trip home to Virginia. Winding through the Smokey Mountains, I took advantage of both lanes as I careened into one corner after another. East of the Smokies I came up on a Porsche 928 who decided to run me. We were up to 120 side by side as I slowly pulled away from him. We backed down and exchanged thumbs up for the stupidity of such an act. Two hours into the trip I am into Statesville NC when an sudden vibration is met with a violent separation of tread from carcass of the right rear tire. I made it to the roadside without an accident and step out of the car. The Pirelli P77 came apart and part of the tread wrapped around the spinner of the American sandstone wheel. Like a chain and mace the lower rear panel was beaten up clear back to the rear valance. The lower lip at the front of the wheelwell was literally torn. Son of a bitch!!! I call AAA for a rollback fearful of the other tires giving way. Two hours and $400 later I have a full set of BFGoodrich T/A tires on the car. I head back out onto the highway with a looming dread of what else might befall me on the rest of my journey. As I finally make my destination the engine refuses to idle down and holds at around 2500 rpm's at every stoplight...and I catch ever freaking stoplight!!! I pull into a parking lot and get the engine stopped. Checking under the hood I can find nothing obvious and my knowledge of SU's is in its earliest stages. Restarting the car finds it settling down to a managable idle again. The lifters are chattering quite a bit but don't sound horrid. I know horrid from my old Land Rover and Camaros (with mechanical lifters). I'm at work this morning and unable to go over the Z until later in the afternoon. I'll check the oil level in the carbs and give the linkage a once over in proper daylight. The biggest dilemma is not knowing who to take this car to for bodywork. There are so many shops and I've seen too many slapstick repairs to trust anyone. Does anybody here know of a very good shop in the SE area of Virginia? Where can I find a lower section of the right rear quarter panel as the original metal is literally folded under and up against itself. How about the front edge of the wheelwell opening? Would it behoove me to get a whole quarter panel and section the needed material from that? Thanks for any sympathy and support during these trying times.