ajmcforester

Does chrome plastic outside ever hold up as well as we like. The only reason plastic is easy to chrome when new is the molding posses gives it a charge as the plastic gets older it louses that charge. When it louses that charge it louse some of the bond.

I'm glad you found what your looking for, could you put some better pics of the spoke wheels, I might know someone that is interested if you want to get rid of them.

That was first class, please check out my add in the wanted list. If you can't find good sides in the next two months contact me I can sell you my extras. I want to hold on to them till I get the car painted in case the ones on the car are not as good as they look. As we see in the pics. above.

On the wire wheels you can contact Dayton they do spoke wheel restoration. When I had the blue z see pic to right I looked into wire spoke wheels, but they cost to much. So I went with the Colorado Custom wheels that reminded me of 70's/80's style Porsche wheels. On the mags, that design was very common and included many no name brands, but I think they are Shelby wheels. Check out this forum link it might help "Mike B" posted some of the Shelby Catalog. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=30854&highlight=shelby depending on the brand the company may still make the hubcaps. I found new ones from American Racing for mine and they where cheaper that I thought they would I'm actually getting them tomorrow in the mail. They snap in instead of a screw in the back, this would be nice I have marks on the originals from the last owner trying to unscrew them with a pipe wrench (he found out they are plastic ). By the way I don't think they are American Racing most of their rims have the name on the inside, but maybe you can use their hubs.

It might help if we knew what brand of wheels, cap diameter . . . basically we need more info. I like the spoked wheels it give it a nice European look. By the way thous are nice looking mags. The mags give it a more American look.

I agree at least you still have the car and your health after the accident. That was how I lost my first Z.

Good I hope they do well still get the picts let us see how well they do for you

You better ask for pictures in every stage and name it out. Picts of paint removed, after metal fixed, after bondo if they use it, and before paint. This will help keep them honest, the thing is it will look good for about one or two years then the bondo cracks, because they have it over 1/8" thick. That was my experience and good luck getting them to repair it right. I wish you can trust the world as much as you do, but I've been screwed too many times, especially when it comes to car repair. I now do all my maintenance, and body work that I can do without a major shop. I'll buy tools that cost the same as someone else doing the job just so I get it done right. Anything I can't do I take to the best restoration shop I can find, because they will take time to do it right and ask you if you think they are doing it right, no surprises at the end The age of the car I think you can justify no bondo and use lead free leading if they can do it; which I don't think they can since you went with the insurance company company. I hope it works for you I should have sent you pictures and documents, maybe then you would believed me about only using a restoration shop.

Good luck for original center section that don't need straitening even if you do you might need to tweak it little to get it to line up.I've never had a hard time finding the side panels you need, but the center sections are usually in bad shape. The piece is very simple and a body shop should be able to take a not so perfect one and make it better. I've never had a hard time finding the side panels you need. I wish I can help more right now but I don't know your area.

If that is the case I'll be well off then especially if a add some reinforcement around the holes. I've never hit anything with the front or any part of a Z except some very light scrape on a giant speed bump that an officer directed me to go over (they took the top off the bump shortly after that). I've heard from others on forums that they have had some mild problems and I know with silver on my truck it will show very easily.

Hey, when you get the valances for the front you might want to add some more suport to the factory parts so the spook won't bend the metal as much. The parts were not designed to have a large spook and all that downforce on it. I plan to do that to mine when I add the spook (not the Z to your right). The z I have the original owner had one on the car and you can tell.

I wanted to get more insight I have not been a big fan of gluing old parts it just seems to make them more brittle, and plastics get more brittle over time. It just exacerbate the problem of cracking. I've been good with TIG welding, my grandfather thought I was a natural. I think if I set up things and take my time it would come out OK my concern is it going to have the same problems as glue? If that is the case the investment would be a waist of money. I have some good panels with most only having 1-2 cracks about .25"-1" in length. The thing is if I'm going to get a dash restored, repair the vinyl, put new seat covers on, rechrome plastic parts (may use chrome paint became allergic to chrome), have new carpets, and have the body redone, I should put the same attention in the plastic parts and do them right. At one time I did restoration judging on Corvettes and I'm looking into what some of them have done. The problem is the aftermarket for Corvettes is much better and new parts usually just bolt on if the car is straight, and almost every plastic part is made. If I decide to get a plastic welder I'll post pictures, and tips for everyone. I hope others will do the same.

By the way this is exactly why while restoring my car I'm adding a GSP trackers. These SOB out their make it hard on all of us.

I can feel the pain the blue one I had she was my baby, and she was in a hit and run and ended up lousing her not getting to part her out to build a new car it takes away from the fun when someone irresponsibility destroys something you care for. I did after 1.5 years later after a year of looking get a new z and I love it but it was not the same as my first. I wish I could have parted out my first car, it been nice to use the parts to rebuild a Z. It would have been like my car wasn't taken from me.

In my experience with insurance company recommendations of repair facilities, is that say they will redo work but I found that to be a lie. Another point about restoration shops is they will document the repairs with photo and what steps were taken to make repairs. If the repairs are done well, and you have documentation your car will be far less devalued in a sale. Collector car people are more understanding that things happen then what is let on, but they want to see a boatload of documentation.

With how that looks at the mount, that is more than $1200, I'd recommend using a restoration shop not a collision specialist. Collision specialist fix it to look good not what will last over time take this up with insurance company also if the cost of repair goes over the estament the insurance will usually cover it (with some pushing). Also don't let the insurance company tell you where to take it they want it done cheap and with most things in life you get what you pay for.

That would explain the crackling I would get and how come the section got stiffer.

If I remember polypropylene when burned releases an oily like substance usually plastics with that characteristic will not glue well. That is a trick my grandfather gave me about gluing plastics.

I'm trying to find an alternative to using glue. On my prior 240z I used ABS glue and any time I put any pressure on the panel near the repaired crack I'd hear a crackle. The plastic near the repair seem to get stiffer, witch I don't know if that is a good thing. Just to let you know I had white interior so I used clear ABS glue, maybe the black would be better. I do like the idea of using backing like fiberglass or acrylic fabric with a resin or epoxy and you can find one that flexes more than others so the panel stays pliable without separating. I was wishing we would get some more examples of people that have tried a plastic welder, but hay their are a lot of good ways to make repairs. So lets get them out their so people can read them.

What year Z and do you know what the plastic is if it's Not ABS plastic ABS glue won't work. From what I can find out about welding and know about gluing parts you need to know what type of plastic. I've seen a chart if I can find it that tells you how to test to see what plastic you have.

I noticed one kit that a lot of high end tool companies (Snap-on, Matco . . .) sell, also Northern and Eastwood with a instructional DVD and books. A nice looking kit hear some web site with it. http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_384313_384313 http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=16676&itemType=PRODUCT http://www.smarter.com/other-home-garden/urethane-supply-co-mini-weld-model-6-airless-plastic-welder-model-5600ht/pd--ch-32--pi-4399583.html

I was planning to lay some fiber cloth with resin on back side of areas that crack from stress like the sections between the side window and the door, but if the welder would work well I'd repair the plastic first to make it even stronger. The other reason I wanted to check on a Z based website is to find out what peoples' experience have been on the older plastics that you would find on a 240-280z. Also some input on what plastic rods work since that makes a big difference on how it will turn out.

Make a tool or buy them they make tools for this. I made my out of 98 cent 4" wide plastic puddy knife. I drilled a 3/4" hole about 2" in and cut the material to the hole making a fork that can get on each side of the clip and start prying carefully.

Has anyone tried a plastic welder? I am thinking about getting one to repair hairline cracks in the plastic panels. I was thinking that they would work like when welding cracks in metal and stop them from expanding by welding a little past the crack. I want to get some input from someone that has used them since I don't know anyone that has used one.