ajmcforester

I'd keep in the hopes of finding the player one day, a little Deep Purple and Black Sabbath would be nice.

OK maybe I should have called it orange or gold, the part that is a part of the vinyl.

Note gurgling is never good. Air in the system can keep the pump from pumping properly or at all. Make the thermostat not open when needed, and reduce or stop flow threw all or some of the engine passages. How well is the fan working, and when did you replace the fan-clutch? Are you lousing fluid? If yes do a pressure test and find the leak, if a bad head-gasket is the problem you will have fluid rushing out in a pressure test. You can't really fix an overheating issue till the leaks are fixed. If your answer is no it's probably not the head-gasket. It would more than likely be a flow issue. Problems can be a bad thermostat, radiator cap, pump, trapped air, blockage or restrictions. What I do is get a new thermostat, and maybe a new radiator cap. Then drain the system and flush the whole system. Detach the hose and blast the radiator out, make sure water flows easily threw it do this to the engine also (if the 81's have a coolant drain plug like the older ones pull it, and flush it out good). Take the old thermostat out fill with water and run it for a wile and drain it, then put the new one in (make sure water is flowing threw the heater core I don't know if 81's had a shut off to the heater core). If that don't work you have a bad water pump, lot of blockage in the engine or the radiator. You can check the pump with a pressure gauge that Auto Zone has as part of the loan a tool program. If that test good, then I look at a new or reconditioning the radiator. If that don't work, new heater core. If that didn't help, I'd be getting ready to pull the freeze plugs and look for blockages, and considering pulling the engine out for recondition as my last option. Be side if you pull the engine out to recondition it you would need to replace those parts anyways. Another thing to check make sure you have good oil flow

It looks like all but the yellow is spot on. I don't know, lighter colors don't always photograph right and yellow is known to fade so it could be right. It is cool that he made color sample to get it right you got what looks to be the right guys on it;)

That don't look to bad it will be nice to hit the rust and see how far the rabbit goes(figure of speech). Especially on the drivers side. It looks obvious for the passenger side. If the rest of the car looks this good you will be in good shape, but I'd bet on hole in the floor, and some rocker and dog leg rust repair. I'm surprised how good some of the parts look.

Ya someone looks to be able to get some scrap framing metal. If I was doing some floor replacements or structural panels I'd add a support bar to the rotating sections to tie them together that way the car doesn't twist but to just gain access to underside that thing is more than enough (for a large truck, or old Cadillac)

Their isn't much difference from what I heard about the 3 or the 4 screw carbs, other than the screw patterns. I don't know but I'd bet you could use the pistons in the dash-pots interchangeably and a lot of other parts, I bet Bruce would know if that was the case.

They didn't lay it on as heavy at mine then if it only took 4 hours of scraping. I've lost track on how much time it took to get rid of most of it I still need to do the tunnel. It saved the car even the paint took good under the coating

My 4 screws have water heating

How are the heater hoses coming? I'm hoping I'll be able to get them because they are hard to replace, and while they are out it's time for the new ones.

If your going to replace them don't skimp get the grade 8. Mine didn't swivel

My first Z got 35-38mpg on road trips. Used to tell the guys at car shows that gave me a hard time about driving Japanese car that I get about the performance with better gas mileage and ask what they get for gas mileage, shuts them up 95% of the time.

That is why I jumped in quickly to help I thought this was a great thing. Back in 2003 I was talking to my friend in Gates Rubber about doing accurate reproductions of the hoses; then of the other rubber parts. His bosses liked the idea if we could get all NOS for z cars from 240z-280z to make the molds. Well I called MSA and several other shops explained what we are doing, they would tell me we like the idea and let us know when they are available, but we won't let you barrow (or buy in some cases) our NOS stock. So it ended.

I have broken the exhaust into sections I haven't heard a think. Arne maybe it was harder than they thought it would be?

Didn't you clean this tank out, maybe you have twist in the hose?? Shine a flashlight down the fill tube you can see inside the tank at the right angle.

The little tank is a vent tank to collect expanding gasses. Those extra hoses don't mater, actually if you haven't replaced them I'd block them off for now. The hose is nearly straight into the tank I can't see how it would back-up. Can you go into what you see when your pumping gas.

That is a type of body wrap that is cheap and easy to put on. I've never used it, I've only used solid vinyl. The vinyl wrap company in Maple Shade I've worked with does solid vinyl.

I'd ask around at that price, we got the stripes for the Torino for under $200 and they had to order a special vinyl to do the gold. I made the vector files, but they scanned the template I made. I also worked for a pesticide company in the early 2000's we would get custom vinyl for the 1200 gal elliptical trucks for $250.

It depends on humidity other things when storing stuff like this. I own some vintage Smokey the Bear vinyl stickers from the 60's & 70's even the glue is good on them and nothing is discolored, or hardened. Be sides I think the people on this forum would like to find a set to use as a template to make new ones. You really don't want to make reproductions of reproductions, you will louse detail. If you don't believe you would louse detail get some sketch paper, and copy a simple image, put the original away and make another copy of the copy, throw the first copy away and do this several times then pull out the original. Actually would not use an original on the car I think they would be more important for reproduction purposes, and I don't think any one on this forum wants to use originals on the car, but they would want them to make reproductions. I know esprist sells reproduction parts who knows he might reproduce them, that would be great his attention to detail is what you would want;)

Don't just measure if you get a chance trace like I stated we just did that with a Torino GTS. He tried measuring what a mess when I traced it on the car we got great reproduction results.

I wonder how many people would be interested in having a set. Honestly to make them might not be that bad to do if have enough interest. If I got a set do to the cost of the covers I was going to make a fiberglass mold to make more covers. All you need is clear polypropylene plastic, a kitchen oven, and a good mold. this method is good for about 4-5 sets, but I didn't see me going threw more. I think the rings would be the hardest to reproduce.

Good luck I'm on the hunt for a set their are re-manufactures being made but I was told by people I trust that has seen them, they are junk. They also cost over $400, so I'm still on the hunt. I'll even take ones with cracked lenses.

I'm 6' 4" you need to remove the spacers on the seat and you will fit with 2-3" to spare. If you don't remove the spacers you will hit your head a little on hard bumps. You will be fine

It would take some time, but you could use ones on a car to reproduce a set, the hardest part would be getting the colors correct with a faded set, and finding a scanner to scan a large pieces. Since these were added on top of the paint I'd get some opaque illustration paper (I think that is what they call it, you know the paper used to hand copy an illustrations that you can partially see threw), in sheets large enough to cover each decal section on the car. Then tape them into place in a way that the paper sits tight against the car without moving. Then with a soft pencil (makes great rubbing no #2 hear) do a rubbing of the edge. with rulers and engineering drawing guides draw/trace the graphics with a hard pencil (keeps the line more consistent and easier to erase mistakes). Scan it in and use a graphics software to reproduce the stripes to make the vector file. esprist, I also know that companies like Fast Signs claim they can reproduce stuff on the car you might want to call around some local graphics places maybe they can help reproduce them.

zed2 Isn't technology great before machines like that you had to trust some guy could look at it and mix by look or trust some formula that used different paint. The machine will just about all the time get you close if not exact, then you can adjust from their. I did this with my first Z the blue one to get the paint to match 20 year old paint, so I could make repairs from cracking on the hood and rear left fender. When I was done I found no one who could tell what I had repainted except me and the guy who did it (we didn't even blend the panels.