ajmcforester

I didn't notice that you did that you need air to get in, if it creates pressure it will push the float down making the gas pour in. Also I'd check to see if the float is sticking or the valve. Adding the oil should not make a big difference in the mixtures between the carbs. See if that fixes the problem. You might need to adjust the carbs a little, but you should be close so something is not right. If you wanted to you can remove the other emission control devices and cap the smog system at the air tubes. The anti-backfire devices are not really needed without a smog pump.

From someone who bought a car he found on ebay after it didn't sell take a look. If I bid what I thought it was worth I would have been taken. I talked the price down $3000 and got what I felt was a fair price. Go look at the car figure a good price and place a bid. More than likely you will get it, ask the sell if you can pick it up within 5 days with money in hand. I'd use travelers checks if you can they have guaranteed funds, that he can cash at any bank, and they are not reimbursable without signing them over, a lot safer than cash. Money orders are no safer than cash. So if he states money order or cash only just pay cash and watch your back.

I emailed about the enclosed duct that Mike B posted without the picture just a description. Direct from the Email: I'm woefully without a lot of details. I tracked the shop down that made the parts originally for BRE, talked to the new owner (who was a worker there in the '70s and now owns the place), and he didn't know what he had but said he never throws anything away. Peter and I stopped by there on a trip to LA and Peter and the guy went thru the pieces so quickly I didn't get a chance to take any pictures. The guy or Peter would grab a piece and Peter would say: "yeah that's our..., yeah that's our..." etc. I made a list and then worked with the guy on how he'd sell them to us, how they'd get shipped, pricing, etc. Now with that said, Peter says the brake vents were not an enclosed tube as they couldn't be fabricated that way with a mold. So the ducting that runs out the back is open on the top and then there was an additional piece that fit on top of the ducting to make it an enclosed tube. We didn't ask the shop if they still had the mold for that small piece. I've now asked Peter why we didn't look into that and he said it was because the primary purpose of the spook was down force and not cooling the brakes and even fewer people today would use the piece to actually cool the brakes. With all that said, I'll call the shop in CA and see if the guy still has the mold. Even if he doesn't it shouldn't take much to make one. I kept his info out since I didn't ask if that would be OK, and some personal information for my order. I'm not posting to this tread anymore I've seen this spitball war one to many times.

Let me go through and check the books so I direct you to the right ones, a couple of the ones I have are from Australia, and the US so I don't know hard they will be to find. Their was not much detail on what Shelby did just a mention that he had a part. It would not surprise me to find out BRE had some influence in the Z they were having good success on the track with the roadsters, and helped out with the marketing of the Z. It just makes since. Yes BRE are out to sell something, but looking at the sight they are more for nostalgia. I think the release of the parts have been from a large interest in the Z again, and people calling to get original styled parts for their Z cars. I don't see any true performance parts. I think the demand is their, look how many reproductions are out their. That detail is small when looking at the overall picture. Not to say it isn't important especially when understanding the cars history.

Your right, can I use your picture in reference to my contact and ask, because I'm restoring close to how the car was sold and this was a part on my car? I found out about the spook when talking to the original owner, he even told me how the original was broken in 74 or 75 (I'd need to check my note for the date). It also explained, why the PS door was a different color, why I had one plastic headlight bucket and one metal bucket. Lucky all damaged metal was replaced and none of the metal welded to the body was damaged or the American Racing rim. I just wish I could say that about its second accident (last owners damage), but nothing that can't be repaired correctly.

Who in this discussion has anything related to selling things, I won't work for BRE. From time to time I sell some extra parts, but we all do that and it does not relate to this. I have several early Z car book that mention Carrol Shelby's work on the 240z, the roadsters and the Toyota 2000GT. Mostly on basic engine performance, driveline, and basic American marketing. I don't think a lot of drastic things were done, it sounded like some basic inquiry from Datsun. I don't know if your on the attack or just having a discussion and coming off wrong, but please read your posts a little more if you won't want to come off as attacking everyone. This was like the time about the side badges being removed in the US on the first shipments.

They show on the ad with the ducts Also I emailed my contact about the rear spoiler. He could have helped with the design of the rear spoiler, because several performance shops in the USA had some input into the car design. I know Carrol Shelby had his hands in the 240Z, why not Peter Brock?

That I agree with!

Then who designed it? It looks like Peter Brock's work. I've seen concept drawings of the Shelby Mustangs with his signature and a similar spook on the car in the illustration. I know BRE his company developed and sold this part. I hope your not mistaking it for something sold in Europe, I don't know if this was sold over their. The American 240Z did have a spook originally like you could get in Europe and the rest of the world. The BRE was one of the first on the US market.

Several months a go I contacted BRE by email to see if they had a spook for the 240z around (don't know unless you ask). Well I got an email back that evening that they took a tour of the original factory that produced the spooks and spoilers the day before well I have been in louse contact ever since. This morning I got the email that they have them and needed my address to calculate shipping since they have not done that yet. They are being made in the original molds. The price is very fair to me, and thought a lot of you might be interested. http://www.bre2.net/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=B&Category_Code=bredatsunparts

FYI: In late November early December 2009 I purchased NOS front half of the original Suppersprint exhaust, in the hopes of finding the rear half. No luck I want to reproduce the rear half as close as possible to the original. If I get lucky I'll install the original rear resonators, but I'm not going to hold my breath any more on finding it. What I'm looking for is a good picture of the rear of the system. The best picture I've found is the ad posted on the forum Arne started (http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=34920&highlight=supersprint). The problem with the picture is the resolution makes it hard to see what type of tip it has (flared, pencil rolled, . . .), also was the two resonators the same as the front one or not. I'm looking to reproduce the earlier version the later version is 2" pipe with straight cut tips while the early version is 1.75", not straight cut tips. I think I might use Jones Exhaust for most of the parts they have the right diameter in a variety of lengths, and have one that matches the front resonators size. However if you know one that looks closer to the original please post, the original has a bead and the tapered section is more cone than rounded and the resonators are different so it will sound different. If you have information or pictures to help please post, if I do this I'll post my results and parts used. If someone wants to reproduce the front half I'll give you the measurements off the original. Any help will be greatly appreciated

The problem is they all do so people don't know which ones of the 106 are counterfeits. Rare special editions always will be intimated, and it is a buyer beware market. I know a guy who thought he bought a SS until we looked at the diff, and we went back to the seller and got $5,000 back.

That's how we have 106 known GTO Judge, when only 86 were built

I concur we had a discussion on the site and he reproduced a set recently. He also was the one that got the braided hoses and several other items reproduced.

How about the differential strap, that is a safety thing that is NLA

It is good to start with something simple. I think everyone who tries something grand just gets burned. The rear hatch is a good one, how about the rubber behind the door locks or some of the parts that were sold with the rubber (and not sepeate from the part like the rubber on the door handles) that are NLA? Another idea is to look at parts that wear out that are NLA like maybe the molded vacuum lines to the brake booster. If he will do more than rubber, what about remaking the battery cables, or some of the switches that are NLA, even the resistor for the heater fan for example. These are simple parts that just don't exist any more I wish you luck and let us know which parts you are looking for, I might even have that part.

OK, I've been looking for some time now for who does the best dash restoration. However I hear little about the more expensive company, Just Dashes, besides they do them. This might not be bad since most people wright about how bad their dash fit from other companies or how cheap they got it done for. The thing I liked is they replace the foam, while others companies seem to fill in the cracks and re-vinyl over the top. One of the big reasons foam-vinyl dashes crack is the foam gets old and shrinks. My concern is how accurate to original are their dashes? It would be nice to hear from someone from the Z community who has had them do their dash give us an honest review of the quality of work? What was done well and what is not perfect match to original that kind of stuff. I don't expect a perfect match but I want to get an idea if I would be satisfied with their work or if I should try to find a NOS replacement.

ChrisZ did you try to rebuild one yet? I'm looking into doing it my self. I noticed their is a lot of other brands of shock oil. I figured when it got close I make some calls and tell them what oil I'm replacing. If this is actual whale oil I might see if I can get is cleaned up and replace what was lost, you can't find better oil, mother nature at her finest. The other thing that concerned me was the specialty tool does someone make it still or what does it look. . .? Lastly the O-rings are easy to match up, but what are the seals like and what other worn parts should I replace and can I get them?

Those wires came out nice, they look better than the factory ones did and more than likely cheaper than a NOS set. I like this companies product of measuring out the solder and flux it is a mess when you use to much and a pain when you don't have enough in the hole (so I always added a little more than needed). I was wondering if anyone has tried to replicate the original wires. I'd like to on my current 240Z since I haven't seen factory correct wires for sale. Also mine have been sliced several times at the terminal and different terminals are now on. Can anyone get measurement on how long the wires are? Also who makes the closest matching to original terminals? Can we get some pictures of original terminals to compare to what is out there?

Look I'd set the price at $4,000 and state "or best offer" keep it simple and be honest with who ever comes to look at it, don't state how low you will go and see what happens. While you have an ad see what a frame shop would charge to straighten it. Even though I haven't seen the car you might get $3,000 for it, if it drives straight. Just remember this is a hard time to sell a car so don't get stuck on the asking price.

I think your on the right track, and the suggestions hear are very good. You can also get a oil dye that uses a black light to detect leaks if you still can't find it.

Another great tip if you have a molded angle start with that corner other wise it won't line up in the end. Rounded corners are not so bad

Are we having fun yet??? I've re-weather stripped two C-4 Corvettes, one Ford Ranger, 84 200SX and my first 240Z, I've also helped my friends with this project. I have some tips I've learned some from others and a little experience. Clean the surfaces very well get all old glue and junk off, rub it down well glue don't stick to oil, old glue, silicon, wax, . . .. On the gluing surface of the new rubber use a degreaser then use some rubbing alcohol until you can take a white rag and wipe without getting anything on it. Test fit with no glue to make sure it fits well no defects that might need trimming or things like that. If/When it won't stay on use masking tape on the test fix place it perpendicular to the weather stripping. If it fits leave it up, next get ready to glue cut the tip so it fits well in the groove in the weatherstripping well, then with it just sitting in location lift it up and but a bead in the grove pressing it down firmly (don't stretch the weather stripping it won't fit right or put a lot or very little glue you need it just right). About every 6" use a piece of masking tape to hold it down as you go. Take your time do one piece at a time and do the easiest one first, keep out of the sun so the glue don't tack up too quickly that you can't adjust to make it fit. By the way I'll try the coat-hanger trick on my Z I'm restoring when it comes time, I've used a broken screwdriver to press in hard to reach areas were my finger don't fit.

The hp and torque difference is made up with the all wheel drive, and maybe a little more. The 700 additional pounds is what kills it. However depending on the track, or track conditions I think the GT-R could beat the Z06. The problem with comparing a Z06 to a GT-R is the old apple and orange, they are both high performance cars, but after that they begin to separate. The closest cars are the pony cars (Camaro, Mustang) and sports compacts.

In 2007 I tried to get one, but I couldn't get a dealer to give me the time of day. I was told this car was only for the special class, well I thought a Z guy that loves the old skylines, and knew more about that car than the dealership as a whole did, should count. I guess they louse the dealerships around me are stuck with them know, they don't sell parts even if I have the part number for the 240Z I'm restoring and I bought a Toyota not a Nissan. They are a blast especial if you can get it on a track were you can really uncork it.