ajmcforester

Thanks for the complement.

Nice theories, but now how to prove them is the big question. It would take a good document to prove these ideas, however they seem to fit the picture well

I agree fully

I know your not disagreeing with me, you seem to be a lot like me in the fact you like to find out how and ware something failed, and if it is easy to fix. That is how we learn how things work and the weaknesses of things. When I fixed my first one to go out I learned more about that type of meter and has probably helped me out 2-3 times after that.

It wouldn't be bad as long as a got the right wire I'd use my fly tying stuff to help. Usually that isn't what goes bad on these, it's usually the 3 things I first listed.

The whole thing is cooked I assume? Then you need to get some copper wire and re-spin it the same as the original you also need to match the wire gauge. The tighter the gap between the wire the higher the gauge will read

OK the part works on resistance of electricity, the float moves up, less resistance than down. If it wasn't sending anymore, you have a short repair the spot an it will work. The float cracked seal the crack. lastly the arm stuck from corrosion or gunk clean it. I rarely throw out electrical parts 99% of the time the broken electrical part someone threw out is repairable (minus thing like spark plugs, and points). That is why I have two original 240z alternators. Things that wear out in electrical parts are like condensers, guides and barrings . . .

Thanks Ron so they are made like I thought they were. I wish my grand father was around all I would need is to borrow someones and I know he could do it and probably make 20 or more in the first day. Now his brother is good I'll show the picture to him, I might have a project next time I'm in Michigan. If I learn a good way to make these I'll share with you guys how.

From that picture I bet the horn don't work. The plastic is ABS that can be glued with ABS glue. This can be fixed if you want to spend the time. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsunS30/DatsunFairladyZIndex/Electrical/ElectricUnitSwitch/Section2/240Z260ZFromAug73/tabid/1662/Default.aspx 1 COMP-SWITCH LIGHTING 25160-N3605 - 1 2 COMP-SWITCH TURN SIG 25540-N3605 - 1 3 ASSY-UNIT TURN SIGNA 25545-N3600 Someone found and posted this site today on the boards. Recommend you bookmark this one: http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsuns30/DatsunFairladyZIndex/tabid/1543/Default.aspx

We almost had these reproduced Will "hls30.com" tried to reproduce these. I don't know him very well and it sounds like it ended very badly from the forum, but thought we should link that forum a lot of data came out of it. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14343&highlight=chrome+headlight+covers I've always wanted a set but never was the highest bidder or lucky enough to find them. What is the back of the rings like? I have never seen pictures of that side, always the top. Also how thick was the rubber?, and does someone make or can make just the lenses in any size order without the rings?

I agree that would be neat to have are you willing to take on that project. I'd like to but I have other things I need to do first like get my car done before looking and collecting that information.

Great no more squinting and trying to make that number that copied poorly look like a number. 3s or 8s were always a crap shot.

I don't have a set, but had them on a different car. They are nice at cutting down heat from the sun and can reduce fading in the interior. They don't affect you view, unless one gets bent. The disadvantages is cleaning, make the hatch heavier (so make sure the shock is good), and some people don't like the look (they tell you about it also). Personally I like them

The unit is simple you maybe can fix the old one for a spare

Use a basic paint prep cleaner in a 3 step wax job and follow up with a polish using a buffer for all the application and a microfiber rags in the hard to get areas, don't worry about wax till you get the paint clean. You will get about 70% with that. Next the areas that didn't shine use a more abrasive polish, and go one step at a time till it starts to change then work down all the steps till you use a cleaning polish. once the car looks consistent then use a cleanning polish then wax. You have a dark color, using a aeperate polish and a wax with no polish will give you stunning results. If you wanted to and the paint is holding will to the car, depending on paint type you might be able to put a clear over the old paint. I'd recommend considering it if the paint is as consistent as what is on the fender.

You can change it without moving the tank. If you need to drain the gas drain it all the way down and see what comes out. A little tip that keeps the rust out one quart of non-detergent straight weight oil in a half full tank and a short drive every oil change.

oops I forgot urethane paints, my least favorite paint type, it good paint to me it never let up to its expectations. Buffing works start with the mildest buffing compound then work you way up to the coarser ones and back down. Try to get away with using the least abrasive compound, remember buffing removes paint. Now with some paints you can lay new paint on. With lacquer paints scuffing and a little lacquer paint thinner you can prep the paint to accept now coats of paint, I've seen people put clear coats on original 50's paint jobs this way.

I found a soak in Gibbs penetrating oil can work wonders. My grand father showed me the trick you do, it works with the 50/50 mixture, but the Gibbs seems to be a little thinner and seeps in nicer. However with big parts transition oil and acetone are cheaper so I'll use that on bigger parts.

esprit, if you have the lens cover you can make a simple mold to make a new one out of polycarbonate. What you do is use fiberglass to make a mold of the lens from the outside then take and make a mold out of the inside of the new mold. remember to make the mold extend past the original inside. Once the molds are made heat an oven to 350, with the molds in the oven. take a flat piece of polycarbonate and place it between the two halves of the mold with some weight or presure, and place in the oven for 20 minutes the slowly raise the heat10-15 deg F every 5 minites if it don't start to shape. stop increasing heat when it starts to bend you don't want to over soften the polycarbonate. I want to find a good price on an original set with good rings and all the lenses cracked or not cracked. To bad my grandfather isn't around he could show me how to replicate the rings I would just need to boro a set so he could look at one, but that is wishful thinking.

I got it off last week nothing like letting parts sit for over a month in penetrating oil

Many of my coworkers grow and sell trees to off set their saleries trust me none of them will be in the office till January.

This is a matter of ocular observation, somewhat subjective, think of a new car, and how thick the paint is now thin paint chips differently it is almost as thin as paper you will also see spots where you can start to see through the color at certain angles, their is not much you can do if it is very thin, unless you have lacquer paintt Yes you can tell the different paints and why I have considered painting my car with lacquer. The problem is getting 920 Safarie Gold in Lacquer is nearly imposable, and would not hold up as well. Knowing paint type can help you determine some options. Now their are 3 main types and some in between types.Lacquer- One of the older paints has a very translucent look usually no cear coat, it get very cloudy when oxidized. low bet you would have a pure lacquer, however the original paint would have been a acrylic lacquer. Acrylic- This paint it plastic like and looks like smooth plastic. It is very durable and rarely used by its self ushally mixed in lacquer paints or enamels. Hi acrylic paints usually are a base acrylic/clear enamel/acrylic paint job. Enamels- think finger polish easy to apply smooths out nicely Toyota FJ Cruisers are paint with a straight enamel. It is durable, easy to repair and low VOC Yes your last question makes since look at my blue car pictures when I purchased that car it was so badly oxidized I thought it was painted sky blue, and new primer had more shine. The owner I bought the car from told me the car was painted in 84, with about 200 hours of buffing I got that. I had some spots that could use some touch-up with paint, but she was able to win best of show at many large car events without me repaint the car. I can help you get on the right path but I need to see how she shine with pictures, know what paint type we are working with, by the way does she have a clear coat, so I can help you. If it was repainted was the car taken down to bare metal?

I tried to work with Datsun Spirit he puts together a engine bolt kit. Well he sent me an email after sending several messages that he was sick and can't help now. After I had put an order together with him.

Yes you can bring paint back, more or less its removing the oxidized paint. Pictures can help. Is the paint very thin? What type of paint original, lacquer, enamel . . . This can make a big difference and what results would you be satisfied with? By the way color matters pigments change paint hardness

Dido hear and from my Z Just finished the master, slave proportioning valve asymbly after the plaing I did last night and started rebuilding the front calipers. Will plate tomorrow