e_racer1999

*adding the header

I'm in the process of replacing the head and adding a head to my car and was wondering what the best replacement for the studs is. I'm not concerned with originality, mostly durability compared to the stock studs. anyone? Jason

torque for the rack bolts is 25. as for the steering coupler, i don't think torque is important. and i did have a b1tch and a half on installing that coupler, so if there is a better way PLEASE TELL!!

basically, you need a resonator to get rid of that. a glass pack will do. what someone on here has done is put a piece of tape on the exhaust running the length from the header to about 3 feet back(?). run the car, and where the tape startes to scorch, install a resonator.

oh heck yes the boiling was the ONLY way i could get those buggers in! my car won't be driveable for at least another 2 months, so i will let you know when i get to driver her as for the steering coupler, it's not squeezing it in that's the problem, it's getting the bolts back through! aye aye aye! the other thing we were going to do was unbolt from the spline that's attached to the rod on the rack and slide it down (if that makes any sense) but now that your steering rack bushings have molded to the steering rack, it SHOULD just be a matter of unbolting them and rebolting them when you're done. the hardest part for me was getting the bushings on all the way, so now that that's accomplished you may be able to just unbolt them and go

lemme guess, it's right around 2500 rpms?

DK still tours (without Jello, since the nasty legal woes) with Jeff Penalty as lead vocals. good guy, met him at the concert they had last year. Jello still tours doing spoken word and has made a couple albums...

i did the steering coupler at the same time as the rack bushings. otherwise those bolts would have NEVER made it back in there. and a side note, don't try to put the bolts in the other way (from the bottom) because they will hit the steering knuckle

welcome! and ditto what everyone else said! except i never owned or sold a '76, sooo......

^definitely. and a good investment nonetheless

awesome. thanks for the help!

sweet. is that enough to prevent it from rotating? i suppose so.

ah yes! good question...

aha! got it, you were referencing the 12/74

i'll trade you trannys! but seriously, could be that the linkage is binding. don't know, though

cool. i think a bit too north for me to stop by.... but if the 5 speed you're looking at is in good condition, don't even bother with your 4 speed

ya, the last part of the sign (what we can see) says myuujiamu (or something similar, my katakana skills are rusty) but ya, it's a museum

enigma, did i miss the ICA reference? i went back and read that post 4 times

that's what i figured. i'll see before i dismantle the other side.

i would say out of service. what part of so cal?

i didn't notice the angle. i will check when i take out the other side. how does it maintain its position?

another note - i think that a PO may have done a mulholland suspension upgrade because i have a 15/16" front sway bar (whice i read was a common diameter for mulholland) and i also have a rear sway bar. the PO i bought it from said that one of the owners had invested a lot of $$ into the car. the engine is an L28 that looks to have been refreshed several years ago, and the person that did this may have invested in an interpart susp upgrade (!!)

any more literature, links on the interpart mulholland performance suspension? i found a little information on dime quarterly, but nothing regarding these puppies. if i keep them (which i suppose i will, after learning their performance history), is the offset supposed to be directional, or does it rotate? thanks!

for the time being it's rubbing the valence. it actually bent it in about 2 inches and now it requires replacement. i've got foberglass molds that i am going to be making flares for the car. once i do that (later down the road) i will cut my fenders and valence to match, then deal with better handling

cool. thanks for the advice, curtis!