MrMarcDude

Im sorry, i typoed. It is a N47 L28 engine. When i bought the car it had a cracked cylinder head so it definately needs to be replaced. One thing i noticed is that the N42 he would sell me doesnt come with the cam towers. Would the towers from my N47 work with it?

will the E88 be able to work with fuel injection?

There is a guy that is selling me a cylinder head. He has a E88 and he wants 100 bux for it. It has everything, but the cam is really fubar'd (rust). I have a 78' fuel injected N42 L28 engine. Would this be a good cylinder head? Im looking at porting, and polishing it, and getting a mild cam. BTW, my car has dished pistons. Thanks a bunch He also has a N42 for 150. What do you reccomend? Thanks

Hey guys I am currently rebuilding my L28, and i need to know where i could get some stock sized piston rings? All i heard that i need to do is hone out the cylinders a bit. No boring. I was also wondering if theres a website that i can go to that will give me the basic know-how of doing this? Thanks guys

Ok, i found out what the problem was with the headlight. I was just a bad connection because it had ALLOT of oxidation on it. cleaned it up, and now it works perfectly. As for the starter, i got that to work as well by just jiggling some wires a bit. For some reason the map light works now too! Now, the only problem is that when i turn the key to the on position i hear the click still, under the seat, and under the glove compartment. And, when i hear the click the little light on my fuel pump cut off switch goes out. But, when the key is in the start position the light stays on, and the fuel pump operates perfectly? I took off the pass seat and found that the relay closest to the center console is the one clicking. The one thats clicking under the glovebox is the one that is right in front. The one that is easiest to get to. Could it possibly be a bad ground? Because everything worked fine before i put the interior back in. Who knows, tommorow ill go ahead and mess with it some more.

Ok, i found out what the problem was with the headlight. I was just a bad connection because it had ALLOT of oxidation on it. cleaned it up, and now it works perfectly. As for the starter, i got that to work as well by just jiggling some wires a bit. For some reason the map light works now too! Now, the only problem is that when i turn the key to the on position i hear the click still, under the seat, and under the glove compartment. And, when i hear the click the little light on my fuel pump cut off switch goes out. But, when the key is in the start position the light stays on, and the fuel pump operates perfectly? I took off the pass seat and found that the relay closest to the center console is the one clicking. The one thats clicking under the glovebox is the one that is right in front. The one that is easiest to get to. Could it possibly be a bad ground? Because everything worked fine before i put the interior back in. Who knows, tommorow ill go ahead and mess with it some more.

(78 280z) Hey guys. I have a bit of a problem. I hooked up my battery to test it, and make sure it still has juice in it, and to make sure all of my lights are working good. I have nothing but the block, and the crank in the car. all of the stuff is out because im rebuilding it, and inspecting the internals. So i plugged in the battery, and checked to see that the lights worked ok. I turned on the headlights, and the passenger light is very dim. When i switch it to brights it goes out completely, but the drivers light goes bright. I though it was just a worn bulb or something. But then i turned the key to the "ON" position. The little killswitch i rigged up to my fuel pump glows for about half a second when its in its on position, but then i hear a click under the pass. seat, and glovebox then the light goes out. So i turned the key to the "START" position, and the starter doesnt turn over, but the Floor temp light goes on, and there is a click under the glovebox again. This is really wierd. I checked my fuseable links, my grounds, and my fuses. What could be wrong? Everything else works totally fine. Both brake lights, both blinkers, and both driving lights. Im stumped! Thanks a bunch guys!

(78 280z) Hey guys. I have a bit of a problem. I hooked up my battery to test it, and make sure it still has juice in it, and to make sure all of my lights are working good. I have nothing but the block, and the crank in the car. all of the stuff is out because im rebuilding it, and inspecting the internals. So i plugged in the battery, and checked to see that the lights worked ok. I turned on the headlights, and the passenger light is very dim. When i switch it to brights it goes out completely, but the drivers light goes bright. I though it was just a worn bulb or something. But then i turned the key to the "ON" position. The little killswitch i rigged up to my fuel pump glows for about half a second when its in its on position, but then i hear a click under the pass. seat, and glovebox then the light goes out. So i turned the key to the "START" position, and the starter doesnt turn over, but the Floor temp light goes on, and there is a click under the glovebox again. This is really wierd. I checked my fuseable links, my grounds, and my fuses. What could be wrong? Everything else works totally fine. Both brake lights, both blinkers, and both driving lights. Im stumped! Thanks a bunch guys!

You dont generally have to lift the carpet, just make sure you hide the wires well. I do lift the carpet though so the wires are super hidden. Its not that hard at all.

well, i got it hooked up, and it is working perfectly. Not one small hitch when i installed it. Oh yeah, good luck finding it too hehe...... :devious:

Man, it sure was a good thing i wasnt in my 280, i would have shat myself considering how close he came to me. Luckly i was in my 1991 Geo Metro. The thing is uglier than hell (bright blue, we call the the smurf mobile) but it has not once broke down on me. That thing is a champ! Damn good car I say

yeah i am. He came pretty close though. If it werent for my jeff gordon driving skills (hah, theres a joke for you!) i would have been hit. He slid about 5 feet in front of me. Pretty cool acctually

sweet, thanks allot guys.

I heard something about smog stuff being hooked up to other cars ac stuff. Is this true with this one? Also, can i scrap the radiator lookin thing? And all of the lines? there is ALLOT of stuff that appears to be able to be removed.

sweet, thanks

(78 280z) Sorry if i sound super dumb here but bare with me, im new ta this . While cleaning up the engine bay today i noticed that there is a belt missing from the engine. It is the belt that goes to that giant thing that looks like a pump or motor of some sort. I traced the lines and it connects to what looks like a smaller radiator thats in front of the real radiator. I was wondering. What is that giant pump lookin thing, and can my engine fare without it? That thing with all of the hoses, and lines really creates a lot of clutter. Just trying to make underneath the hood look a little better. Thanks guys

how would i go about removing the rivets anyway? There is only a ding strip on one side. Looks kinda bad.

nobody knows?

Yep, mine are riveted on too.

www.datsunrestore.com

Hey guys. I just recently went to the radio that is shack, and bought a rocker switch for a fuel pump cutoff. The switch is rated at 30A, and 12v. Will this be good enough to handle the job? It has 3 "prongs" that you attach, or solder connectors to. They say Ground, Load, and Power. So if im right the ground goes to anywhere on the body, the positive goes to power, and the load goes to the positive on the pump? Thanks, as you can see im no expert

burp the bolt out with an air bubble? that sounds quite interesting...

Thanks allot. Ill try the putty knife thingy tommorow. My dad just found a giant sledge in the garage. I think its a bit overkill, but we'll see. As for the crank pulley. I'm going to have to wait till I get the pan off because my car is an automatic anyways. (dont worry, swappage will be goings on pretty soon) Thanks though. Guess its just gonna take a little effort. Maybe im just too damn skinny to do the job .

Thanks a bunch, that did the trick. I ended up having to hit it from the bottom upwards to get it out. Thanks

Ok, i just undid every bolt from the oil pan (great fun). But now i cant seem to get the thing off. I whacked it, and whacked it but the damn thing wont budge. I am positive every bolt is off. I even tried kicking it, and nothing. Any tips? Also, how should i go about getting the crankshaft pulley off so i can take off the front cover? Everything is off except for the pulley. Whenever i go to loosen the bolt, all it does is turn the crankshaft. Is there any way i can somehow lock the crank to get this off? Thanks a bunch guys