Bambikiller240

flyfish: Please don't create a new thread regarding the same issue with your Z car. Doing so does not allow for the continuity of information flow for those other members who follow that can learn from the issue you are facing in starting your car, and the steps required to resolve it. Stick with the original thread and add new posts as you work your way though the issue. Thanks, Carl (Bambikiller240)

If your gonna do that, you'all better make sure you ain't holding the plug when the ignition is cranked, or you'll get knocked across the street!

I am in the East Bay area of San Francisco Bay area. Probably about 70 miles or so from Petaluma. I don't know anything going on related to Z's in that timeframe. It's our wet/cold season, and nothing much happens related to cars.

Hi Dwight: Hood is in the backyard! Much closer to me than the hair I used to have! Actually, I took the hood off in August when I started the install of the rebuilt engine. I've been plagued with some minor problems since then and the lack of someone who knows how to install the hood and get it properly adjusted. It was much easier to take off than to get installed and lined up correctly.

Oh, Lordy! That is too funny Alan!

No wonder that stuff is so bad for us.

I think it's the ascorbic acid in the Coke (a preservative) that does it. A soft drink like 7-UP (with citric acid) will do the same.

Hi Marty: Yeah, I think white is kinda rare in a 72 Z , but my plastic panels are so brittle and have a few significant cracks in them that I need to replace them anyway. I still may dye new panels white, but I really don't want White seat covers, so I have to decide what else I can do in that area. Since parts of the interior, like the console and dash came in black, maybe black seats wouldn't look too bad with the panels in white. Anyway, I have plenty of time to ponder that, as it will be years before the money trickles down to that level of my plans for the car.

Hi Chris: Yes, I enjoyed reading it as well. A good idea to tell the stories from many viewpoints. Only a participant could appreciate the exhilaration of the dash across America. I was at the Long Beach F1 GP in 1979 and observed the finishers who remaining in CA for the week leading up to the GP, take a cruise around the track (including the "ambulance on a flatbed" that lost it's transmission on the run into CA). Those folks were STILL having a grand time a week after the race had ended.

Seat cover. Interior is (was) white. Now a yellowish white. Eventually will be black, I think. (years down the road)

In a case like this it's better for the solution to be weaker than stronger. As my shop teacher used to say "Ya can't put the metal back once it's gone." The corrosion is "flakey" and soft compared to the sound metal remaining and it will clean up fairly quickly with a bit of brushing with some of those small "acid brushes" found at the hardware store. I cut the length of the brush hairs a bit shorter to make them more stiff and they work pretty good after a good soak in the vinegar solution. Di-electric grease is good to put on the connectors after cleaning

Here's one of me and the princess.

Hold the business end of a spark plug wire near a piece of the chassis (like a bolt/nut/or other bare metal) look for the spark to jump the gap to the metal. Best viewed in a semi dark area (i.e. NOT in bright sunlight)

OK, I stand corrected. Vinegar is a weak ACID solution. All you want to do is CLEAN the parts, not eat them. ACETIC acid would be inappropriate in the solution (much stronger than vinegar) that you now describe.

Household vinegar IS a "weak acetic acid solution". Check the label.

Sounds like someone is volunteering to make the call!

Probably also cuts his top speed and mileage by 10% or more. I just finished reading Brock Yates book "Cannonball" about the "Cannonball Sea to Shining Sea Memorial Trophy Dashes" which most everyone is familiar with. In Yates first dash across the US he had a wing added to the rear of the souped up Dodge Van they were driving. It cut their top speed by great amount and reduced their mileage to the point where they could never get more than 9 MPG.

www.midwest.com I believe. There is a banner ad for them on our Home Page. It rotates with the Dashboard Restoration folks ad. You could also send CHLOE a Private message. Her username is " mwz ". Tell her she needs to put a picture of herself on the site too!

Heard it before, but it's still one of my all time favorites!

"Awe" Thank you!

And where is your picture Mr. Tanny?

I'll bet you $5 that Chloe will beat their prices! Remember, that $100 is for the valve ONLY. Once their mechano-jock starts ripping on it, they'll be adding hoses to the bill too, so figure on $300+ if you send the job out to them.

Chloe at Midwest Z is where you start. She will get you the best price and the best service. Not sure what the EXACT Nissan name is, but if you ask for a Heater Control Valve for a 1978 280Z, almost anyone would know what you are talking about. Make sure you also get all of the hoses in that area, and you might want to get new grommets where they pass through the firewall unless yours are in very good shape.

Has he ridden in the car? Looked for the problem after the install? I know from being inside a car (driving) it's hard to find problems, just wondering if they have or could put it on a lift and run the car to see how the rotating assemblies look while moving. Hope you find the cause soon. Be sure to post the results so others can benefit from your experience.

I got my Pertronix from Vic Brit.