Bambikiller240

Hi Ben: That is the one I was telling you was VERY expensive when I was lookiing for cables. I believe that it is virtually (if not really) NLA. Let us know if/when you find one.

It may be an odd one, Steve. When I removed my seatbelts, none of my metric wrenches fit the bolt head. I had to use a standard US wrench to fit the bolt head. Sorry, I didn't check the thread/pitch of the bolt.

There is provision to un-plug the wiring on the switch from the chassis wiring harness. Unplug them first, Remove the switch again. Clean the terminals (lugs) on the switch and solder the short wires back onto the lugs.

I am not 100% sure but it could be related to the fact that this thread is (in reality) an orphan thread. What I mean is that it was not created in a specific forum. Look up top and you'll see that it is in the "240Z, 260Z, 280Z Discussion ForumS" section which is really a heading for all of the forums such as Engine, or Suspension, or Electrical, etc. This thread is a good example of one that will be very difficult to find at a later date since it does not appear where people would logically expect to find it (Electrical Forum) Notice that the "quotes", italics, bold, etc also do not work. I don't think this place was meant for threads to be posted.

Correct me if I'm wrong here, but if you "replace the chassis" on a unibody car; don't you end up with a different car? (i.e. a different VIN, etc.) Essentially what is being done is you are replacing everything atached to your "donor chassis" with those parts from the car you had originally, and tossing away the original chassis/unibody.

Long handled breaker bar, with an extension on handle to gain leverage. Also, BE CAREFUL so as to not snap the bolt in half. Apply pressure smoothly, a little at a time.

Ed gave a positive answer to the question posed. The entire body of the car IS the chassis. If dfr867 meant something else, he does need to clarify his question.

Please take a moment to say a prayer and/or Thank the members of the armed forces who have fought (and in many cases died) to protect the freedoms that we enjoy in our respective countries. All gave some, some gave all. Current Honor Roll

If you can find a 180 degree steel tube and a short length of hose to make the turn, then you could use generic hose. I couldn't find one at my local hardware store, so I took the path of least resistance (OEM hose). The float needs to hang down so that as fuel fills the tank the float rises. Should be obvious as to which way to install. Hold it horizontal, and see which orientation lets the float hang down the most.

First time I ever heard of a woman listening to her husband! Who wears the pants in your family, anyway? j/k

The only hose you should have a problem with, is the one at the rear (passenger side) which has a 180 degree bend in it. Using generic fuel oil rated hose in this location will not work unless you can find a way to keep it from kinking at that bend. A kink there will render the vent useless. Some folks have used a steel spring inserted in the hose to keep it open. I just bought that one hose from Nissan ( about $50) and used generic hose for the others.

Craig: You could also upload the pictures to a folder in your gallery here, the create a post in Tech Articles and link to each picture where-ever you want inbetween paragraphs. Similar to the Pertronix Install, or Fan Clutch Rebuild threads already posted there.

G' Morning Will: I was hoping that you'd see this thread and chime in, since you are or will soon be working on a wiring loom. I don't believe that I've seen this product before. Is this DeOxit product a paste , powder, spray, or ? What type of store is it found in? Auto Parts, Electronics, or ? Thanks, Carl

Strarting with 1973 240Z's U(S spec) Z's had side intrusion bars and allegedly a unibody made of thicker steel, and of course those wondeful bumpers which weighed more than the previous years of 240Z. I do not know if our 260Z's received even more weight than 240Z's . I would suspect that our 1975 - 1978 280Z's were heavier than the 260Z's that OZ received during those years for similar reasons (added safety features).

I would not drive the car at all with the transmission empty of gear oil. As for removing the fill plug, this can be difficult on a car which has not had the plug loosened for many years. Your best bet in my experience is to use a LONG extension on whatever socket/ratchet, or wrench you are using to gain leverage. On my car, when I first bought it I had to use a long extension and apply all the force I could muster using my LEG, rather than arms to loosen the plug. Steel plug threaded into Aluminum transmission = Disimilar Metal Corrosion. If when you get the plug loose, smear the threads with anti-seize compound to keep this situation from happening again. If you have read this far down, here's a little trick you might think about trying. Try to remove the back-up light switch (just a few inches forward of the fill plug). Sometimes that is easier to remove. If you get it out, fill the trans from that location. Re-install the switch, then figure out how you are going to get the filler plug loose.

Probably from that endangered species "Naugha" leather!

Hi Alex! I think that Wisey lives in Australia, one of the countries that received the 260Z through 1978. Also talking in OZ dollars, and emissions stuff.

Remember everyone is entitled to their own opinion, OK? The people saying that this car isn't a Z Store Resto car are joking right? I mean: The Factory Resto cars sell for quite a bit less than what they commanded at the dealer. The cost of new and shiney parts, and body work (even with gaps at doors) is considerable. Someone went through the effort to counterfeit the Z Store program badges, and documentation shown in the auction page. [/list=1] ........all to try to sell a car that there is relatively little money to be made on, after sourcing parts, or refurbishing parts to new appearance? (and it *SHOULD* be easy to confirm via VIN if it was in fact part of the program or not). Doesn't make sense, or seem plausible to me. OK, Get out yer pea shooters, I'm standing here............. :cheeky:

Maybe something about the Jag electrics being powered by "Lucas, Prince of Darkness"?

Major concerns would include the brake system (rubber hoses, master and wheel cylinders, jellied brake fluid); fuel system (rubber hoses, rust and garbage in tank and lines, jellied fuel) Flywheel and Clutch Disc could be rusted together. Mice "stuff" possibly in the heater ducts, wiring may have been nibbled on.etc You mentioned the magic word (Rust) Floor pans can be cut out an new ones welded in, but I would suggest looking carefully at the Rocker panels and Dog legs to see if they need attention at the same time floor pan repairs are effected. Sounds like a nice find, but "just sitting" like that over a period of years can have worse effects than driving a car periodically over the same number of years. I would start with cleaning the fuel tank etc. No use trying to force any "foriegn materials" (crap) through your carbs and fouling them up. Just my $.02

If the engine has been fully warmed, I don't think that a 15 minute delay is going to amount to much. The lack of coolant "flowing" should (I would thik) let the internal temps remain relatively "soaked" throughout the internals. In doing compression tests on my 240Z's (L24) over the years, I've just warmed the engine thouroughly, pulled off the fuel lines to the carbs, pulled all spark plugs and coil wire, blocked the carb butterflies open, connected my remote starter, then tested. It had to take close to 15 minutes for me to do all that, as I don't work terribly fast. Compression has always been seemingly accurate (160-170psi, wet) on engines that were in good condition.

The auction offers a FREE Carfax record check on the VIN. (towards the bottom and on the right side) Anyone try to click on the link? I did. It doesn't work. Carfax wants a 17 digit VIN and car must be at least a 1981 model.

You're welcome Ben.

Performance wise, looks like with a V8 it was a fun car to zip around in. Have to read more about it later.