Bambikiller240

Riveted, still there. None came from the factory.

They look like flat-tops to me. What do you think they are? Don't play games, speak up.

You'll need to check the Amp rating of the fuel pump that you are using to know if the switch is rated good enough. Usually this info is printed on a label on the pump. If it isn't there or is the stock pump, check the size of the fuse that serves the pump.

Well, the name doesn't "exactly" describe the process, but basically what you do is drill a hole through the center of the broken bolt (as large as possible without buggering the threads of the housing, then insert the EZ OUT "Screw Extracter" which has flutes that are reversed from the direction of the threads, and you carefully try to back out what is left of the bolt using lots of penetrating oil and care. Link to a Craftsman Tool Page Picture of an E Z Out (Screw Extracter) below

Ugh! Sounds like you are trying all the right things. Didn't see you mention trying an E-Z-Out, though. You are right to be concerned about the actual T-Housing to Head bolts. If the Cover bolt sheared, then the Housing to Head bolts are likely in similar shape.

The last radiator I bought over the internet (Radiator.com) had top and bottom tanks that were made of metal that was WAY thinner the original radiator tanks, and the fins per inch of the core were way less. The overall appearance of the radiator made me feel that it was far inferior to what I could get for approximately the same money locally from people that I know, and know where to find IF I need them. Go ahead and chime in, Will. But we want only the finest of stones!

Local Warranty Better Quality / Workmanship Quicker Service [/list=1] These are a few of my favorite things.

"KRUSTY ! !"

Oh my Gosh! Here in Cali, any Kragens (Checker, or Shucks elsewhere) carries them. Sorry you had to run around so much.

Push in slightly and turn.

It was available as a dealer option in 1973 (I bought one) so it's possible that it was available in 72 as well.

Yup, Support your local Radiator shop!

I DO Nissan sold every 240Z they could possibly build and ship to the USA. They would have sold a lot more Z's if they could have built and delivered them. According to Zhome.com there were 148,615 Z's produced from 1969 thru 1973 for the USA / North American market. From 1979 thru 1983 there were 331,737 280Z(X's) produced for the same marketplace. 1979 had the highest production, and Nissan never built that many ZX's in a year ever again for North America.

Broken (cut or damaged) wire.

I have no idea what those threaded holes are for. It does look like the rod tha your vent knobs mount onto, is corroded somewhat. Maybe some Kroil, or Penephrite would help the operation of the vent control.

Yup! Somebody had WAY too much time on their hands.

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It should be.............unless a rat has built a huge nest in the duct.....or O.E.

Those should have been EASY to figure out. Operate knob while driving car...........note function.

Replace the hoses. With hose rated for "High pressure Fuel Injection Systems".

Why do you want to mess around with the fuel line if the fuel filter was the problem?

FIRST CHOICE Nissan OEM Ball Joints - www.midwestz.com SECOND CHOICE Moog Ball Joints - anyplace that sells Moog parts.

This is the version that I have (attached). I'll have to look it over again. I am sure that it will be cheaper than a FSM. I do recall that the Clymers DID have a few illustrations that I found useful.