Bambikiller240

If you are in need of a complete wiring harness for your 240Z, your best bet currently is to contact one of the Z Specialist Salvage yards for what you need. Z Specialites in Snohomish, Wa. Danny's Datsuns in Roseburg, OR Z Parts in Richmond, CA CyberSanford in Michigan Z Car Source of AZ in Phoenix, AZ Z Barn in Maryville, TN

Hi Ben: The calipers were not colored red from the factory, but "Sumitomo" is cast into the calipers on OEM units. I believe from my recollection of looking at your calipers that they are stock 240/260Z. 1mm gap between wheel and caliper sounds awfully close, but I don't know if it is a problem or not. Hopefully someone else can advise you.

I like the quote inyour signature line. I wonder how many people "don't get it". (notice what I found interesting about the post)

STD is for use on an engine where the crankshaft bearing surfaces DO NOT require machine work to remove grooves or other distortion. 0.25mm (0.010") is for use on an engine where the crankshaft bearing surfaces HAVE BEEN machined 0.25mm smaller in diameter than normal (stock) Until you know the condition of your crankshaft (examined and measured by a knowledgable automotive machine shop) it is impossible to know which bearings you should purchase to properly rebuild your engine.

www.datsunzparts.com/start.htm When in doubt................www.google.com

Andrew: Thanks for the picture. I was thinking that I had to get into the far end of the stalk to access the washer switch contacts. Guess I should have looked at my spare parts or taken the stalk off and played with it. I will clean up the contacts and apply "DeoxiT 100" to them to keep them from getting fouled again. Thank you. Carl

Welcome. Not necessarily. Too many variables to make a blanket statement. A 240Z can be made to be faster, but it takes $$$. If one puts $$$ in the right area's, a 280Z can be made faster. Comparing 100% stock vs 100% stock and in similar condition it would be a close race. What I meant was the operation of the locks is different between 240Z and 280Z. But anyway, your locks don't seem to be working quite normally. Sorry, I can't advise on how to fix them.

Can't compare a 280Z to a 240Z.

Will: How did you take it apart? Where do you start? I don't want to mess with contact cleaners, as my experience is that they often discolor plastic parts, and seldom work as a "permanent" repair. Also, even if I wanted to use a contact cleaner, I can't figure out how to get at the contacts to apply cleaner spray. Daniel: New motor works when connected to power source w/o switch.

It will be interesting to see how much of his $40K investment he gets back on this car.

Does anyone have experience with servicing the switch (button type) at the end of the Combo SW Stalk that activates the windshield washer pump on a 240Z? My washer pump (new) operates itermittantly and I'd like to remedy that if I can do so without destroying the combo stalk in the process. Thanks, Carl

AFAIK, there is no published list of engine serial numbers. My brain recalls reading somewhere that the engines were mfg'd in sequence, but then diverted to various model assembly as needed. In other words. one engine sn# sequence used for ALL variations of Z manufacture for sale around the world. HS30, HLS30, etc. Your best bet is to get the SN# of the engine and then look at www.Zhome.com in their registry of Z's. People have listed the VIN # and Engine # of their cars along with date of Mfg data. That should give you an idea of when the engine was manufactured.

Maybe the 2nd option should have read "I want my photo's to be available for download." Rather than an "I don't care" statement. Option #3 covers the "I don't care" folks.

".....a 1970 Nissan 240 ZX" “We’re rebuilding the engine and the motor on this car...." Oh, Brother!

Thanks Jason (and Mike!)

The turn signal switches are all essentially the same for 240Z's, BUT the devil is in the details. The wiring harnesses/connectors are different for different years. There are at least two versions that I am aware of. If anyone finds MikeW's .pdf file on the combo switch, please post a link to it.

Please consider voting. Your opinion (vote) counts as much as anyone else's and it's important (IMHO) that everyone who has an opinion voices that opinion in the poll. It's like the election, if you don't vote you miss an important opportunity to make a difference.

And you'd end up with a 240Z part that would not fit your 280Z car!

Thanks for checking Will! In case anyone needs to know (per Nissan Microfiche): OEM Wiper Blade Assemblies: 26370-E4100 through 07/76 26370-N4701 from 08/76 through end of 280Z production Wiper Arm Nuts: 26381-M0200 through 07/76 26381-N4500 from 08/76.......... 26381-M2300 also from 08/76..........(go figure)

Hi Victor: Thanks for checking your wiper arms. It's looking like the longer passengerside arm is for 260 and early 280Z production. I removed the black paint from the 2 sets I have that "were" painted. The paint on one set practically fell off with a quick wash in Lacquer Thinner, and man are they in great condition! Zweet as ZRush would say! The other set took a lot more effort to strip and the S/S finish is not that great. They have a "mottled" look to them.

Amen Brother!

I dove into the Z Car Microfiche tonight and I found a bit more info. Some of the info I found clarifies some things, other info confuses some things. NOTE: This information relates to North American 240/260/280Z, I do not know how it relates to other market cars Here is what I found in the Microfiche: 26380-E4600 = Driverside (L) Wiper Arm through 07/73 26385-E3600 = Passengerside ® Wiper Arm through 07/73 26385-N4600 = Driverside (L) from 08/73 through 07/76 26380-E4600 = Passengerside ® from 08/73 through 07/76 26385-E4700 = Driverside (L) from 08/76 (These are the OEM Black finished Arms) 26380-N4700 = Passengerside ® from 08/76 So, it seems that here are in fact two versions of the Stainless Steel finished Wiper arms, one set used through 07/73, and another version used from 08/73 through 07/76. The OEM black finished arms were used from 08/76 through the end of 280Z production. Now what seems weird is the PN shown in BOLD above. It is listed as a Driverside Wiper Arm up through 07/73, and then as a Passengerside Wiper Arm from 08/73 through 07/76. This doesn't seem possible given that each arm is marked "L" or "R" and none of the "L" marked arms are the same length as ANY of the "R" marked ones. I have only ONE length of Driverside (L) Arm (12 3/8") (diff. markings on the 2 versions) I have two lengths of Passengerside ® Arms (11 3/16" and 12")

When you add oil to the tubes, do not fill all the way to the top. I suggest filling to about 1/2" to 3/4" of the top. Why you may ask? Because the strut tube does not stand exactly upright when installed. They are canted slightly toward the centerline of the car. If you fill to the top, the oil will slowly seep out until the oil level is below the inner edge of the installed tube. By the time it stops seeping out, your suspension will be coated with oil which will attract dirt and crap and the suspension will look like $^!#,and be a mess to work on, or clean. BTDT

Will: Unavailability of the S/S nuts must be a recent change as I was able to buy a set through Chloe in January or February of this year. What length(s) are the arms that you have for your car? I'm assuming that the paint on the arms was applied by an owner rather than the factory since I have one set of each variety in S/S and one set of each with paint......and the paint looks terrible (though quite different) on both sets. Anyway, the paint is coming off so I'll soon have 4 sets of S/S arms and Nuts.

Yes, you need the "sleeves". Those are known as "peg-leg" struts. Tokico quit making the strut that was originally used, so they now modify a strut used on another car by adding that sleeve so that it will fit a 240Z. I don't remember which is front and which is rear,. but I'm sure someone else can enlighten you. Tips? Be careful when using the spring compressor to disassemble the suspension. The compressed springs store a lot of energy that you don't want released in your face. T H I N K S A F E T Y ! ! ! !