Bambikiller240

The small diameter hose goes to the "Flow Guide Valve" which is mounted on the inner fender just below the coil. The fitting you have labelled "to air pump??" does go to the air pump. Does your car still have a air pump? If not, plug it.

I got an eraser to remove gratuitous "Z's" in posts. Actually, I got some $$ to buy a few parts.

Last time I inquired (several years ago) I was told that the bolt-head sizes on some of these stainlesss steel bolts will be different from those of the original bolts used by Nissan. This may not matter to some people, but it might to others. Nissan used "JIS" Metric Fasteners in many (if not most) areas of the cars. An example is 8mm X 1.25 bolts in JIS require a 12mm wrench, a standard 8mm X 1.25 bolt requires a 13mm wrench.

Your diagram looks like the a/c for a 72 240Z, not a 73. What do you need to know (specifically) about the diagram?

There was only one shorter type available in the USA, 10 mm shorter. As least that is the only one listed in the Datsun Competition catalog that I have. As far as differences, according to the Haynes manuals, stock is 2.7 turns lock to lock. I seem to recall that the Datsun Competition catalog that I ordered from indicated the short steering arms changed that to 2.4 turns lock to lock. I'll have to double check that.

Yess, Check the Tech articles forum for a installation instruction.

On my recently rebuilt engine the new pistons had 050 stamped and the builder indicated to me that it was a .50mm overbore. PS The original pistons had no markings on the top

Anything is possible given enough time and money. Looks like there has been serious time (and money) spent developing this car.

Good Luck, Nate. Keep in touch! Carl

Nate, you might try a search on this website as this subject has been discussed previously.

, headphones

It could be that your choke cables need a bit of adjustment. My car had the same problem after I replaced the carbs. Turned out that an adjustment of the cables resolved the problem. Tell us about your electronic ignition installation. Which system did you go with? I'm sure someone can help to confirm a correct installation. Regarding speedo, I don't know the cause, but "bouncing" is a fairly commn problem. Sounds to me like your ammeter is behaving normally. Normally the needle wouldn't read much past the middle unless the battery charge is low. At night, mine reads right at the middle like yours. The oil gauges in Z cars are notoriously "variable" (inaccurate) shall we say. At idle the reading can be incredibly low, but from your description I'd say yours is reading about normal.

I have to agree on this. Almost every time my Z's have had problems with Alternator, OR Voltage Regulator; I have ended up having to replace the other component as well. Also, I've known people to be disatisfied with the "modern" (solid state) VR's. Some have even ended up searching salvage yards for a used original VR to replace the newly purhcased "modern" one that they thought would be the answer to all of their problems.

At low speeds it required somewhat more effort. But IMO the trade off was worth it. PS, The wife didn't like it, but afterall it was MY car.

Just to reiterate comments made by seerex, AVOID letting them total your car, then "allowing" you to buy it back and keep the car as part of the settlement. In doing this (at least in CA) you end up with a Salvage Title to the car which kills the value of the car to a future buyer.

I had them on a Z that I owned in the past. Had zero problems with them. They will quicken your steering a good bit, so if you do something like autocrossing (a lot of rapid and hard cornering) you can scrubb the tires more than with normal steering knuckles and wear the tires quicker, but that's about all I experienced.

God helps those who help themselves. Use your little fingers to do a search for engine builders like Sunbelt or Rebello (or others knowledgable about L series engines) and ye shall be in touch with people who have the info. Why are people asking for info like this? Because some people aren't sufficiently motivated to do their own research, others are not really serious and others just want to ask questions. (curiousity) If Dyno results are are a tuning tool and "dynos should NOT be used for bragging rights. You simply can't compare the results of one dyno to another, even if it's the same model." then this thread is relatively meaningless. Meanwhile, perhaps it should be stated which countries have Dyno's who's results are considered trustworthy, since some countries have Dyno's that lie.

There shouldn't be a problem using and L28 with 240/260/280Z engine mounting brackets. Are you sure that you put each of the brackets on the correct side of the engine? (they are not interchangeable Right to Left) I don't think that ZX engine brackets are the same. (not 100% sure, but the ZX chassis is completely different from a Z) Do you have good pictures of the engine mounts as they are installed in the car that you can post so we can see what's going on?

To inspect the brushes, you'd need to remove the alternator from the car and disassemble it. "Some" parts stores, or auto shops that specialize in electrical repairs have a machine they can use to test your alternator for proper output.

You are right about thev insurance co. not caring much if the repaint doesn't match the original paint. Most good body shops can match the color very close, so it shouldn't look too bad. BUT, the insurance company will not spring for a complete repaint of your car just to ensure that there isn't a color mismatch. I really wish you good luck, I know how disturbing it can be to have to deal with this sort of thing.

No $70 girlfriend?

You'll need to use the F.I. Fuel Pump, the 240Z one won't get it done for you.

TTThat's All Folks!