Bambikiller240

That is what I thought. It seems that various companies apply names to a color without regard to an "official" name. See the two scans attached for paint on 1971 and 1972 Datsuns an example.

To be honest, I don't remember what brand of paint the shop used (it was a long time ago). I found a body shop that I was confident could do a great job and let them do it their way. I was more than pleased with the results. Sorry I cannot be of any help with a brand recommendation.

Notes, lots of notes describing where the wires were when you found them Pictures, lots of pictures showing ALL of the details Paper or Tape tags on ALL ends of ALL wires describing where they were when you found them

You might want to ask Dennis at Classic Datsun Motorsports for his recommendation of a body shop, or ask for recommendations from a local car club. The difference in "restoraton" body work and what you get at a body shop that does regular (i.e. insurance or standard) body work is in all the execution of all steps of the job. Prep, Application, and Finish work.

Was this on an OFFICAL NISSAN DOCUMENT (brochure or ?)? If so, which one? I'm curious. I had my 2nd 240Z repainted #918 and could not find an official name for it, other than #918 Orange. http://zhome.com/History/colors.html

See post #6 of the thread linked below http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14845&highlight=Smog

I don't recall seeing any "official" names for paint colors, I think that colors were assigned numbers and these names may be less than "official" mperdue has a web page with examples of the various colors for first gen Z cars. It is located at: http://datsunprojects.org/zpaintcodes/

Almost any "brand" of paint can be tinted to the correct color, once you know what it is. It looks like a factory color, although from the look of the car at the Blackhawk show, I'd say it was a repaint.

74 is the last year that does not have to pass smog tests........for now. You can never tell what the jerk-offs in our government will try to pull in the future.

Did you replace the anti-squeal shims and other hardware (installation pins and clips)? That is usually where the squeal comes from.

I think that "management" removed all the threads about this subject. At least I can't find any of them anymore. www.zcar.com has (had) some threads also. Those may still be available.

Mull: I don't want to get into the argument, but I think that those people stating that "X part" is already made by someone are just pointing out that they aren't interested in your part because it is going to be made 1/2 way around the world and they can already get the part more locally. You had asked if there was interest in these parts and in essence, they are showing no interest and explaining why they aren't interested. I don't think they are trying to discourage you from your project.

Some cars are destined to be used as parts cars to save other cars. This one might be in that catagory. The VIN doesn't seem special to me either.

It could be fixed, but it would be cheaper in the long run to start with a car in better condition. What is the point of the project? The end result (a Nice 240Z)? or the long journey to get it there (Lots of effort, time and money)? The answer to that question will help you decide what is best for you.

Guess it depends on your definition of "restoration". The dictionary has a very specific one.

Good info, Nate. Your car is just slightly older than mine (which also has the vertical defroster).

He also said "body and interior shops in the los angeles area that take good care of Z cars are welcome." Having someone learn (and make the inevitable learners mistakes on your car) is not what most people would call taking good care of a car. But, hey if it works for you.....go for it.

an anomaly

They couldn't use MY car to learn on. NO WAY!! :devious: That would be a bad idea and definitely not "ideal"

Well, I don't know how loose yours is, but mine is fairly tight. Keep in mind that there is no contact between the magnets and the pick-up that senses the magnets (or anything else for that matter), thus no friction, or drag to cause the magnet sleeve to move about.

In the SF Bay Area you'll pay a minimum of $4000 if you want paint and minimal body work (no major repairs) done "right". And you may have to wait 6 months or more to get your car into the shop.

Not sure I understand what you are saying. The magnet sleeve is supposed to move WITH the the shaft. If it didn't, it would be slipping around the shaft and it would be impossible for the Pertronix to fire at the proper time.. The magnet sleeve should slide onto the shaft and be in a fixed position when fully seated.

Will: Until a couple years ago I was like you. Knew of the difference, but didin't know why. Then I started contacting Hardware companies to source replacement bolts and spoke to a salesperson at Lawson Products ( www.lawsonproducts.com ) who explained that from the information he had, he thought that the "JIS" meant "Japan Industrial Standard".

I need it sometimes.

where have I heard that before?