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Bambikiller240

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Everything posted by Bambikiller240

  1. Bambikiller240 posted a post in a topic in Engine & Drivetrain
    Most stores that would sell the fans would also stock the controls, or at least be able to order the kit from the same manufacturer. Kragen should be able to do this, but who knows. They are not my favortie source for anything other than oil that is on sale. I routinely got lousy service from them so I spend very little money in any Kragen store.
  2. Bambikiller240 posted a post in a topic in Engine & Drivetrain
    You sould be able to buy everything needed to install the fan at the store that sells it to you. Usually the fan comes with all that is needed to install, or a "install kit" is sold separately. You may want to get a "Thermostatic control kit" to control the operation of the fan, unless you want to switch it on and off manually.
  3. Bambikiller240 posted a post in a topic in Engine & Drivetrain
    Wow, a 240Z Pimp-Mobile!
  4. Now this is where it seems GOOFY to me. The GIF image on that page shows measuring the "backspace from the "outer edge" of the inner side of the wheel to the mounting surface. The measurement from there INCLUDES the (one) "lip" of the wheel. I always thought the Width of the wheel was measured from outer edge to the other outer edge? It seems to me that he measurement from the mounting pad to the "other" outer lip should be equal, or the offset is NOT zero. WTF??
  5. Bambikiller240 posted a post in a topic in Open Chit Chat
    A Brass Drift is a round piece of brass about 8 inches long, approximately 1/2" to 5/8" diameter. Usually had a knurled area for your grip at one end. It is used to drive the steel races out of and into your brake hubs. The idea is that you place the drift against the race and wack the drift with your hammer. The brass, being softer than the steel of the hammer or the race, will deform and not damage the race if you hit the race off center, or if the drift slips and contacts the bearing surface. If you were to use a piece of steel for this job, you'd likely damage the race.
  6. The way I read that web page seems to confirm my previous statements. With ZERO offset, back-space should be 1/2 of rim width. YES / No?
  7. Bambikiller240 posted a post in a topic in Open Chit Chat
    Ya won't find Duct Tape in my tool box! Of course I don't do body work, but IMO Duct Tape is for Half-arse Repairs and I won't have any of that going on with my Z! I *think* I have a small roll somewhere in the house, but I can't remember the last time I used it, nor where I put it.
  8. Kenneth: He's talking about the MSA catalog 20th Anniversary Edition. The newest catalog that they have. Carl
  9. I never carved mine up to check the interior of the material. The surface was black (inside the ashtray as well as outside) and that was all I ever saw. My car earliest Z was a early 71.
  10. Bambikiller240 posted a post in a topic in Open Chit Chat
    So you are getting two cars? What is the story on the "other" one. You mentioned "donor", What is it donating? Conversion to Manual transmission parts? Are you driving the one pictured to Penn from CA? Any concerns about that?
  11. ZmeFly: Since yur an alignment tech I'm hoping that you can 'splain this to me so I understand it. I thought that if the "offset" was zero, then the back-spacing would be exactly 1/2 of the wheel width. In other words: 5" wide wheel = 2.5" back space 5.5" wide wheel = 2.75" back space 6" wide wheel = 3.0" back space 7" wide wheel = 3.5" back space 8" wide wheel = 4.0" back space Reason I ask is I've seen people post wheel size info that doesn't follow this assumption. Can you clear this up for me? I'd appreciate it. Thanks.
  12. Bambikiller240 posted a post in a topic in Open Chit Chat
    Besides the standard tool kit of: full set of metric 3/8" and 1/2" drive 12 point sockets full set of Metric Combo Wrenchs Small set of Standard & Phillips Screwdrivers Regular Pliers Channel-Lock Pliers 1/2" drive 10-150 ft/lb Torque wrench Big & Small Hammers I frequently use the following: 10 mm Flare nut wrench (or Aldenwrenches - www.aldenwrench.net ) for brake line fittings Small Needle-Nosed Vice-Grips for help with screws with stripped heads, and brake line fittings that are already dammaged. Ohm-Meter for Electrical troubleshooting Brass Drift for replacing Wheel Bearings Pickle Fork or Pittman Arm Separator for Tie-Rod Ends and Ball Joints. Spring Compresser Set for Suspension work
  13. Bambikiller240 posted a post in a topic in Electrical
    ZwolleY: Just thought I'd mention, that (if you want to) you can replace your alternator with one for a late 280Z or 280ZX which has an internal voltage regulator. There is a write up on how to do this in our Technical atricles section. There isn't much to it, and you gain amperage capacity as well as the internal voltage regulation. Carl PS Sending you a Private message shortly, please read.
  14. As Far As I Know, it is "Zero".
  15. Revolution, Konig, Panasport make oversize wheels with correct offset for Z's. See the MSA catalog for prices & details. www.zcarparts.com
  16. I'm often accused of being wrong, but actually....they are!
  17. Some of us are so cynical that we don't believe anything told to us on April 1
  18. The ashtrays that are in the EARLIEST 240Z's (the ashtray mounted in the FRONT of the console near the fusebox) are black plastic. On these ashtrays, you flip the lid "up and forward" to open the ashtray. The slightly later 240Z's had the ashtray in the middle of the console (near the E-brake handle. These ashtrays had a metal "slide to open" lid. Mine looks like brushed aluminum, but could be satin-finished stainless steel. I don't believe that it is chromed. That is the way it is in the USA anyway.
  19. Bambikiller240 posted a post in a topic in Open Chit Chat
    That, and they have taught their daughters the law of supply and demand. "Cut off the supply, and the demand rises!" It's makes her a winner everytime in my house!
  20. Remove all the fuses and test while out of the fuse box. You may have a 30 year old fuse in there that was slightly damged when you were in there cleaning contacts. The end-caps tend to separate from the glass and it can look good, but still not pass current from one end to the other. As cheep as fuses are, I replace them all unless you KNOW that YOU have replaced them recently. Eliminates one potential source for your problem and for future issues. just my $.02
  21. Bambikiller240 posted a post in a topic in Open Chit Chat
    Eeeeeeeeeewwwwwwwww! Does it have one of those 4" diameter exhaust tips?? or wiggle when it rolls down the road???? :stupid: :tapemouth
  22. A Re-build usually involves machining the block (i.e. Over-boring the cylinders, machining the crankshaft, replacing the rod, and crankshaft bearings to match the machining done in those places replacing the pistons with ones to match the over-bore, ) in addition to all the work described by St. Stephen. What you end up with is an engine that is as close to new condition as is possible to obtain from the existing engine. All tolerances between the various parts should be within factory specifications for a new engine. To some people an "overhaul" is called a "refresh". It's kind of a half-way measure to extend the life of an engine that has high miles but is still in reasonable condition, maybe just burning a little oil.
  23. From my point of view, electrical problems usually are YUCKY.
  24. Yes, the oil futures traders seem to be driving the market currently. Those of us at the "sharp end of the stick" find little consolation in the fact that the price of oil FUTURES is reflected IMMEDIATELY at the pumps when the price is going up, and falls months after lower priced oil ARRIVES in the US for processing; enabling the oil companies to use the money "somewhere and on something which means an economy is being stimulated". The overall economy could just as well stimulated by allowing the general public to retain that money for personal spending. These are windfall profits. Are you telling us that the prices we ALWAYS pay at the pump do not include monies for the (admittedly significant) costs of developing additional supplies through exploration or whatever? I would find that very hard to believe, as it would not make good business sense, and is contrary to the limited information that I have read. Many of us ARE surprised at the quick rise and slow fall of prices for one simple reason. The oil companies do this in such an extreme manor that it defies logic, and seems to always result in record profits reports for three or four fiscal quarters beyond the price spikes in the crude oil prices. I have nothing against the people who work ing the oil industry, but I do find that IMHO the executive management of those companies to be thieves of the highest skill. .
  25. Bambikiller240 posted a post in a topic in Open Chit Chat
    My home page is that of my ISP "NetZero". I don't use it for anything, as I alway have a IE6 window open to 240z.org and another ready to go to other sites that I need to access. I do use "google" when I need to do a search
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