Bambikiller240

The POR Distributor in Sacramento can ship it within a day or two. UPS will take another couple of days to deliver it. Order a week ahead of time to be safe. BTW, POR must be applied to BARE metal (applied over paint, it does NOTHING!) , properly prepared with "Marine CLean" and "Metal Ready". Both are products sold by POR. Order it all at once. Ask question of the distributor. They have lots of advice to help you.

too expensive. Regular Paint Thinner will do just fine. Let soak in a bit then scrape DO NOT USE HEAT AND SOLVENT!!!!

A scraper and elbow grease. You can soften the undercoat with solvent, or application of heat from a heat gun. Don't try to heat with a torch, you'll burn the undercoat.

Anything by Led Zepplin, Santana, George Thorogood & the Delaware Destroyers, Pink Floyd, or Fleetwood Mac were major favorites of mine back in the day. Now days I don't drive long distances much but when I do, I take a CD player with a pile discs by the same folks and ROCK OUT!

The picture that shows the rear of the balance tube appears to show the model number of the balance tube that you need. It looks like it says "E46 JAPAN". The E46 is the model n umber ofthe balance tube. Refer to that number to describe what you are looking for, and explain the location of the barake vac fitting. Just to help carify what you need for your car. good luck in your search! Carl

Wasn't the suggestion to contact owners of other Gold Medallion winner S30's? That suggestion was made in the Thread about offering your car for sale. I don't remember a suggestion to contact the Resto shops for the Nissan cars(but that doesn't mean it wasn't made). There were several shops involved in the Resto program for Nissan. One was Classic Datsun Motorsports (Les Canaday), another was Datsun Alley (Marc Jones) in Signal Hill, CA. Sorry I don't remember the names of any other shops. Maybe "Pierre'Z" in So Cal ?

How about trying to use an Adjustable Spanner (wrench)? In the US they are widely known as "Crescent" wrenches. (Crescent being the original (?) manufacturer of them).

Ah, taking it to another level! I Love It!!!!!!!!!!!!!

George: On my US Spec 240Z's all nuts and bolts (except some for the dealer add-on A/C stuff) has been Metric. WHen you say "pipe" I assume that you are referring to the fitting where the hard metal hydraulic line (pipe) connects to the rubber hose that goes to the slave cylinder. The fitting on the "pipe" should be for a 10mm spanner, I do not recall the size for the fitting on the hose side of the cionnection. The measurement you see on the slave cylinder is the diameter of the piston bore of the slave cylinder itself. Here is a LINK to some information, including two freeware programs for converting to all sorts of metric measurements.

Well, the NASCAR pit crews use these gloves when doing Pit Stops, and they use "rattle guns". I doubt you'd have a problem. PS I know what you mean about the rubber (Latex) gloves. When doing POR prep last summer, I got all tangled up in a drill moter cause the damn latex gloves disolved and snagged the spinning drill chuck.

Does it match the engine serial number stamped on the VIN Plate mounted on the inner fender? just curious Carl

Could be just the age and minor corrosion from 30 years of normal use on your car then. My car seems to operate OK and is stock except for a cassette radio, but I watch it like a hawk for signs of impending trouble, just in case. Carl Beck has said on the lists, and Joe Demers in his article seems to feel that that the system was marginal even when new in 240Z's. Sure wish I knew enough about electronics to rewire the whole car properly with modern componentry like your other thread inquires about doing. That would be SO nice .

Hi George: The gloves we are talking about are made by a company called MECHANIX. and are made of some kind of material that does not affect your dexterity much at all. They are used by pit crews on race teams to protect your hands from damage as well as to help keep them clean(er), They are advertized in most automobile magazines in the US. Here's A LINK to their website and a picture of one type of glove that they make and sell.

Click on THIS LINK and you can add your jokes to the 400+ Blonde jokes that George already gave us!

Like a lot of things at Costco, they come, and they go. Just keep your eyes open and one time when you are there, they probably will have them.

OK, joeZay, then make sure you point out all of the problems to the seller. Start your bidding for the car on the LOW side. You can expect to have to pay for maintainance and other "issues" on a 30 year old car, so don't blow your whole bank account on the car, you are going to need some money for the inevitable issues that crop up from time to time on an old car. Don't pay more than you have to.

Are you sure that you are looking in the right place? Spark plug side of engine all the way to the rear, just below the cylinder head. If you are looking in the right place, take a little steel wool or an abrasive kitchen pot scrubber and clean the area. They were stamped into the engine block. The number would NOT match the VIN of the car. The serial number of the engine that came with the car from the factory would be on the VIN plate that is screwed to the inner fender (passenger side) of the engine compartment. That is the only place that you will find the serial number of the original engine.

"unlatched" hoods don't come with hood pins sticking up through the hood, there is more to that hood issue than being left open. Why buy a car with damage if you don't have to? joeZay is in CA, there are still decent cars out here without the damage and crap repairs done to them. People should go into a purchase with their eyes open and knowing as much as possible about the problems with a car. It is almost always best to buy a car in the best shape you can afford rather than buying someone else's jerry-rigged mess.

If I recall correctly the heat is due to the high aperage flowing. The circuits were marginal at best when new and people add higher output alternators, and/or high powered stereo's, high wattage headlights, etc, and as the circuits age, corrosion rears its ugly head to increase resistance which agrevates the problem. Mind you, I'm no electrical wiz (far from it actually), but I have a good memory and that is what I remember reading and hearing people tell me.

The emblem on the side (fender emblem) looks like it says more than "Datsun" but I can't read what it says. also the hood isn't closed on the thing, I wonder if it can be closed. I wonder if the "little dent in the tip of the hood" has messed it up so that it can't close?

I think I remember 2Many, or Enrique (maybe someone else) saying that the large guage White w/ Red striped wire is one of the main power feeds in to the passenger cabin. Probably carries most of the amperage and gets really hot. Now that I think of it, it may have been Joe Demers Phd in the SportZ Article in the current issue.

You can get an idea of the value of a car by going to the Classic Car section of NADA GUIDES and plugging in the in the information specific to your car.

Rumor has it that here was a very tiny "Z" tatoo on the left cheek of each one. But you have to look very closely to see them. That's enough Z content for some of us.