Bambikiller240

Try Charlie Osboure at Zed Findings , he produces floorpans that get great reviews from people who have purchased and installed them.

less than 30 minutes after your post, the bandwidth has been exceeded. I'll try to check it out again later

Great find! Thanks for the information. I'd been putting off replacing my windsheild washer pump due to the expense (and like you wanting the stock configuration) of a new bottle and OEM pump.

Sorry to hear of such low readings on your engine. As you may know Factory spec on the L24 is 170psi in a new engine, and it isn't uncommon for 30 year old engines with under 200K miles to still have compression readings of over 150psi in all cylinders. With readings of 120 on most cylinders it appears that your engine is very tired. It could be valves that are worn or not closing properly, worn valve guides, or piston rings, or all of the above. (a leakdown test would give you an idea of which is more likely) That cylinder with 40psi is of a more immediate concern. It could also have a head gasket leak from the cylinder to a water jacket, an oil passage, or to an adjoining cylinder, or (less likely) to atmosphere. In any event, at least now you know more of what you are up against and you can try to formulate a plan to address your needs. Yeah, that does sound like normal wear, though with that low reading for cyl #4, I'm surprised that the plug for that cylinder wasn't significantly different in color from the rest of the plugs. It must still be firing, but losing virtually all pressure, and not getting significant excess oil into the cylinder (like from bad valve stem seals), or you'd have found it to be black.

I think that you're going to have to fabricate something yourself. I've never seen them available separately. Trace out an outline of the carb face(s) on paper, then increase the outer dimensions by about 1/4 inch in all directions, Transfer the design onto a good quality gasket material (or BUNA-N sheet rubber) and carve yourself a nice set. A little high-temp RTV can be used to stick them to the air cleaner assembly and you are back in business.

Sounds like George has a WHACK on the Forehead due to him!

No biggie, door should be keyed the same as the doors, as you suspected.

Welcome to the club, Sven!

That's the trouble with you retired guys, you're always rubbing it in to those of us who aren't retired. sign me, Green Carl

:stupid:

Check www.ZHome.com for a registry of early Z cars. You can get a pretty good idea of production date. Once you get the doors open you can also check the Data tag on the drivers door jam. The locking gas cap is an aftermarket piece, and you'll probably have to disassemble the filler neck to get it off. See if you can get a key made for it. They are very difficult to find now days and sell for about $50 on eBay when they show up.

They can be used if the chain is stretched. Also, back in the day, the C Production Z cars routinely set up their cars with the #3 position to get more power out of the engine. AIR, the differnce in cam timing between each of the positions is something like 4 degrees advancing the cam timeing in relation to the crankshaft timing marks. Of couse back then, there was higher octane gasoline available so this may not be something you could get away with (in the US) now. Maybe someone with more knowledge can pipe up here and advise us both, as I'm about to start assembling the top-end of my newly rebuilt short block L24 and I'd like to optimize the engine for the best power I can get out of the crappy gas we have here in California.

OK, I see where you are at on this issue. Sounds like you are just getting ready to get into this thing. Since you haven't looked at the plugs, and I'm guessing that this is a new (to you) car )god knows what shape they are in, or how long they have been in there)........replace the plugs now (use anti-seize on the threads), do the other things that you mentioned, and keep an eye on those plugs. Pull them and inspect them each week for a while and see how they look, how their appearance changes as time passes. This (and the compression test) will help to tell you how bad of an issue this "blow-by" is for your engine. Didn't mean to overwhelm you with questions

Blow-by? Do you mean blow-by as in the piston rings aren't seating to the cylinder walls and the combustion pressure is blowing-by (past) the rings into the crankcase? If so, I guess I'm not sure how that would foul the plugs. Of course, I'm NOT an engine expert. Have you checked your compression? What are the readings? Have you done a leakdown test? What color are the plugs? How long does it take them to get that color?

Well, the auction indicated the diameter of the holes for the cam (bearing surface) was within spec (but just barely AIR). Measure the cam that you have and see what diameters you have to work with. Check with a machine shop and see if they think there would be enough "meat" to line-bore the towers to fit the cam that you have to work with. Who knows, you MAY not even have to line-bore. Won't know until you take some measurements.

KUNG FU LION -- Unconfirmed Darwin Award 1980s, Australia A rather impressionable student of kung fu listened with rapt attention when his instructor dramatically informed the class, "Now that you have reached this level in your training, you can kill wild animals with your bare hands!" The martial arts trainee took the statement as gospel, and headed to the Melbourne zoo to test his mettle with the wildest animal of all: the lion. In the dead of night, he slipped into the zoo, leapt into the lion enclosure, and challenged a suitable king of the jungle in combat. He would probably have lost a one-on-one fight, but he never got to try. His naive fight plan didn't account for the enthusiasm of the lion's pride for a tender intruder; nor did it give sufficient weight to the possibility that his instructor didn't konw what the hell he was talking about. Zoo employees found his remains -- two arms and hands -- the following morning, with shreds of red fur grasped tightly in his fingers.

I'd suggest checking this in a shop manual (preferably a Factory Shop Manual), since I don't have my manual here and I'm going by memory but I believe that what you are showing in the .jpg is correct (or within spec).

I agree with Victor. Cost for a new set of NGK BP-6 plugs is about $10.00 Why muck around cleaning old ones? New plugs, new cap and rotor (points too, if you still haven't gone to Pertronix), set the timing and you should be good to go in a hour or two. Some things take more time and effort than it is worth bothering with.

MAYHEM is referring to the oil filter itself. If the presure relief is eliminated (plugged or capped off) and you rev a cold engine, that thick oil and the increased pressure from high RPM operation WILL split the filter sometimes. There ARE reasons for the pressure relief valve to be there! If you plug the relief valve, don't rev the engine cold. It only takes a few minutes to warm the engine properly. Why take ANY chances? FWIW

Take your radiator to a local radiator shop and ask them about putting in a new core with 3 or 4 rows, and/or more fins per inch. I had a 3 row heavy duty core installed in my stock 72 240Z radiator tanks and brackets. It was a bit more expensive than the list price for one from MSA, but I didn't have to pay shipping and I got a better warrentee. FWIW, Carl

Hi Victor: I believe that he "square" one for your ignition lock is a replacement. I mean that the ignition lock assembly has been replaced at some time in the cars life. The other (rounded) key is the standard normal key that came with the car. My late 71 and early 72, and mid 73 240Z's all had the rounded one as the only key that operated all locks (doors, hatch, glovebox, and ignition). A year a go I had to replace the Ignition lock on the 72 and I got that "squared" key with the new lock assembly from Nissan. I still use the original key for the doors and hatch.

How much more accurate do you want than actually SEEING the piston reach the top of it's stroke?

I was under the impression that it is a pressure relief valve so that if the oil filter gets clogged, there is a path for oil to return to the engine block and continue a flow of oil (and oil pressure)throughout the block. Anyone want to correct me if I'm wrong? Don't have my manuals here to look through, but that is my recollection of the purpose for the spring-loaded check ball at the oil filter mounting.

The earliest 240Z's had 2 (two) keys. I do not recall off hand when the switch to a single key was made. Also do not remember whether it was a separate key for the Hatch (w/ doors and Ignition keyed alike), or a separate key for the Ignition (and Doors and Hatch keyed alike). I'm sure that someone who has owned one of these early Z's can fill you in completely, but to start an answer to your question, YES, there were 240Z's that used two keys.