Bambikiller240

Oh, A WISE GUY! Actually, it was Shemp. Sorry, No cookie for you today! :stupid:

Yeah, in Texas, salt isn't going to be the issue, BUT, RUST still may be one. We don't have salted roads here in CAli, but all it takes is moisture for rust to form. Floor pans (inside and out); rocker panels, firewalls and frame rails can and do get rusted from a varienty of reasons including poorly applied undercoating, leaky weatherseals, even being parked in a grassy field for long periods of time can promote rust in Datsun chassis. When manufactured, they were not treated with much of a rust preventative. There are more than a few members here who have learned this lesson the hard ($$$$$$) way. There is no substitute for actually inspecting cars in person. Multiple cars. Inspecting more than one car will only cost you a bit of time, but it will ensure that you fully understand the differences in condition of cars for sale, and the value that is placed on them. Contrary to popular belief, not all cars with a price tag of $3000 (or any amount) will be in the same condition, some may be worth more, others will be worth less. "Looks" can be, and often are deceiving. There is no substitute for putting your hands on the car and poking around with your eyes wide open. EVERYWHERE.

Only a thorough inspection can tell if the car is worth any set amount of money. You haven't mentioned the location of the car, which will also affect the value. Has the car been driven on SALTED roads? What about RUST, the KILLER of Z's. Do a search on "RUST" and learn where to look on these cars for signs of it. There are many cars out there that fit the description that you have provided, that also have enough RUST to make the car little more than a Money Pit for the unwary buyer. This car may not have that problem, but only with a complete inspection by someone who knows where and what to look for, will you know for sure. Our member ZMeFly is into ZX cruisers, so he may be able to give you more specific information on where to look on ZX chassis for signs of rust. Hidden or otherwise. Remember, Knowledge is POWER. DO look at a bunch of Z's and DON'T buy the first one you run into. Good Luck

Just how cold is the weather when you are experiencing this? Do you have the carb pre-heat water lines to the intake manifold capped off? For winter you may need to switch to a stock type 240Z air cleaner (the one with the flapper valve) so the carbs can draw air that has been pre-heated by the exhaust manifold instead of COLD air.

Well, he DID/DOES have a legitimate question to discuss. Judging from the fact that Dave did end up reposting his request for information, it is apparent that not everyone understood your attempt at humor. Here's MY attempt at humor

You are welcome Just as there are two Inner (Main) Bushings for each side of the Rear Suspension, there are two Outter (Spindle pin) Bushings for each side of the Rear Suspension for a total of 8 bushings.

You should not use regular grease on these bushings. Silicone grease is what should be used. You could use a silcone lubricant from a spray can, but it will not last as long as a silcone grease. BTW, Silcone grease IS a Silcone Lubricant

Well, using only 4 bushings, you are not going to ge the full benefit of this upgrade, since the suspension has 10 main bushings (two main front, and eight main ones in the rear) PLUS two tension/compression bushings up front and two differential support bushings in the rear. However, in general terms the reason you get a better handling car is that the PU bushings do not deform and "flex" as much as the stock rubber bushings do. When your suspension reacts to the forces put on it by the steering inputs and the surface of the road, those forces are transmitted to the chassis through these bushings. The rubber bushings will absorb some of these forces. The PU bushings will not deflect and deform as much as the rubber, so more of these forces are transmitted directly and more quickly into the chassis. To get full benefit of PU bushings, you should install them all, or at least the 4 inner ones for the rear, and the two main ones in the front. You will also maximize the return on your labor investment ( $$$ or work effort) by rebuilding the entire suspension all at once. It really doesn't make sense to go with PU in the rear and leave old rubber (or even new rubber bushings in the front suspension. If you DO go with PU in the rear only, you'll find that the rear end of the car performs vastly different than the front end. Generally not a good thing to have going on.

PU bushings will squeek, especially in cold/cooler weather unless they are well greased EVERY PLACE that they contact metal. I've had some luck with using High Temp Silicone Brake Grease in this application, however I do still get a bit of squeek in colder weather. The remaining noise isn't very loud or annoying on my car, and the increase in performance is worth every squeek that I might occasionally hear.

Picky, Picky, Picky :stupid: At least he didn't post an Engine related question on the Suspension Forum.

Pulling the air vent hose sure helps, but my glovebox got mangled on the other side by the bracket for the glovebox light switch. I think successful removal (in one piece) depends on how brittle the cardboard on your individual glovebox has gotten.

I don't know for certain, but I have heard that the cardboard gloveboxes for 70-73 240Z's are no longer available, so you might want to be sure you can get a replacement before you go destroying what you have.

Actually Lachlan, the runner up prize is for knowing who REPLACED Curly........................ Any guesses?

He'll have to work really hard to do as much damage as the jacka$$ we just dumped. PS I did NOT vote for Arnie.

You may want to check and confirm this, but my understanding is that for proper geometry you need ZERO off set. I believe you're going to need spacers if you use those wheels in order to get it set up properly.

Well, it seems that Jacques Villeneuve is pouting over being dropped from the 2004 driver line-up and has decided that he's no longer motivated enough to race for B.A.R. in Japan this weekend. Some will say that he's been driving like he's not motivated for several years, however equal blame belongs to the team for fielding less than competitive cars. The good news is that Takuma Sato will take his seat this weekend and for 2004. If any of you guys (besides Jerry) watched the 2002 Suzuka F1 race you'll remember his superb drive through the field for Team Jordan as one of the highlights of the race. And now, on with the show!

Making the cover itself wouldn't be too difficult, but finding the exact same "shock cord" system used, that allows the cover to remain attached to the hatch while it is being opened would be rather difficult. Of course, some other method could be employed, but it would not be the same as the original.

The Toneau Cover that I had offered for sale has been SOLD, and is no longer available. Thanks for the inquiries. Enjoy it Naoshi! Carl

He should post those photo's to www.WreckedExotics.com

There are NO US market 240Z's that came from the factory with a sunroof. However, it is possible that the original owner purchased it from the dealer with a sunroof installed. 240Z's were so popular that demand easily outpaced the supply. So, many dealers added CRAP like sunroofs, stripes, side moldings, after-market airconditioning, and mag (aluminum) wheels as a way to raise the price (and profit margin) of the limited number of cars they had to sell. These sunroofs often leaked badly, and many of the ones that didn't "leak", did allow rust to begin attacking the roof. Be very careful purchasing a 240Z with a sunroof. Check inside and out for signs of rust and damage to the steel structure of the car. Also, by now, 30 years after install; repair parts including weather-seals for these sunroofs are virtually impossible to acquire as most of the manufacturers of the sunroofs have gone out of business.

Hi Fred! How have you been? Now us Californians can say "Our Governor can kick your Governor's arse..........and mean it. PS I did NOT vote for him.