Bambikiller240

Matt: Email has been sent to you Thanks, Carl

Hi Matt; I am interested in the Headlight/Turn Signal switches that you are offering. I for some reason I can't send a PM, and it seems that you aren't set up to receive emails through the club. Please contact me via email (through my profile page) if you can. I'd also like to talk to you about the misfiring engine problem you are experiencing. Thanks, Carl

Not to throw a damper on the idea, but...................... Rebello Racing isn't anywhere near Berkeley. They are in Antioch. 511 Wilbur Avenue - Building A Unit 5, Antioch, CA 94509 Rebello Racing Website

Why don't you delete the "double" post? click the "edit" link in the post On the "edit" page, at the top, "check" the "delete" box, then click the "delete" button. (it's a two step deal) Done

Of course it will "run". That should never have been in doubt. What about being able to run the tank down to almost empty, and then to get a "FULL" fill up so the tank actually holds the 15.9 gallons it was designed to hold. IMO, that is where you "may" have problems. Well, at least; other people have had difficulty in this area.

Sometimes, it's the simple things. Are you positive tha the fan belt is properly adjusted? Bolts at Alt tightened properly? Had this happen to me once................once!

Rob: Sorry to have to ask this, but what is a gear gaiter?

I know. Hopefully some folks will view the previous thread and realize that it has already been discussed

The thread in which "kats" translates the japanese chaecters is: ELEPHANT OIL CAP THREAD 2nd page, 7th post on that page

Yeah, but you already have an interesting and successful hobby..............fishing!

Hi George! PS If I ever THAT bored, PLEASE someone shoot me!!! (aim between the eyes!)

In the USA, the Ignition Lock Assemblies that I have bought from Nissan (including one in a complete Z-car lockset bought this month) have come with TWO of the screws that shear to form the "bit-less" screws. It doesn't really matter how many of these your car has installed, as all that is needed to defeat this "security", is a portable drill and bit that will destroy the "bit-less" screwhead(s), and a phillips head screwdriver for the others. 3 minutes or less ought to do it. :(

For my money, it still cannot be beat; even after 30 years THE SPEED MERCHANTS

That is an early 1970 fuel vapor tank. It was superceded by a metal tank of a different shape at some point prior to late 1971 production dated cars. I suspect that it was changed again when the FI 280Z's came out , although that is just my assumption based on looking at 280Z interior panels.

Led Zepplin IV (ZoSo?) or ANYTHING by Pink Floyd. Early Santana albums were also a favorite.

Don't remember, but I put a copy in Tech Articles forum

I was thinking that the one pictured by datto_240Z IS the starter motor.

Now THIS is a REAL ENGINE!

Have you had any problems with filling the fuel tank completely? Do you have pictures of what you did to share?

Found it, nevermind

Yeah, it was in a forum message. Not the start of a thread, and I don't remember what the thread was about to begin with. On my dial up it takes forever to search through all the threads, so I have had to give up. Can only devote so many hours to searching for a needle in a haystack. I'm hoping someone else, or the original poster; remembers where they put it.

Yes, it is not one that is listed. Actually, that is one reason I am trying to find it again. So it can be listed there.

About a week ago, somebody posted a link to a website that had many, many links to articles on other websites about Z cars Somehow I did not book mark the site that was posted. Can anyone point me to it? It was not the "Z Garage" weblink, although this site did have links to articles on Z Garage and many other sites as well. Thanks if anyone remembers the thread this was posted in or has saved the link. carl

Regarding the plastic fasteners for the door seals, they are Nissan P/N 01553-00291 I bought a pack of 20 from Nissan. I am reasonably sure that Chloe at MidwestZ can get them. BTW, they are the same fasteners that mount the seal to the bottom of the door, AND they do not come with any of the seals. They are only ordered and purchased separately.

It may not be necessary to tell you this, but others may benefit. This is actually a very common area for considerable corrosion to occur. The bolts can, and do become very weak and soft in this environment of moisture, and dis-similar metals. It is wise to replace all of the the bolts (for a few cents in extra cost) when corrosion extends beyond minor surface rust in order to minimize the chances of something like this from occuring. Another place to consider replacing bolts in order to minmize headaches, is where the thermostat housing bolts to the cylinder head.