Bambikiller240

I don't know about eBay AU; but in the US many of the sellers offering T shirts and the like are actually making them for sale or having them made. I always wait until the auction is over (if the price goes above the minimum bid) and contact the seller and ask if he has more. Usually I get the item for less than the auction price. Doesn't always work, but works more often than not........for me.

So then why the question in the first place? If you found the auction with the picture, contact the seller. Maybe he has more. If not, a local T shirt shop should be able to make a copy with the picture as an example.

This auction is for a picture of the above engines.:stupid: :stupid:

Nope. It's been in my Gallery for months.

I'd agree Andrew. It's the $30 price for so few items that seems a rip off. Also as you say....can really identify all the small items as the picture sucks. I've been tempted by a few grab bags of nuts and bolts and other fastners, but I keep thinking that I can get'em for free at the Pick ' N ' Pull if I wear loose coveralls with deep pockets!

Nice Work,Skip. They look VERY nice. What did you use to finish them? Do you work with any other varieties of burlwood? Walnut? Maple? Having done a bit of work with Redwood Burls (making Wall Clocks) I do wonder if they will get damaged by rings on shifting hands? I know burlwood is harder that regular redwood, but I found it could still get dented if I wasn't careful.

Here is a pic of the Timing Marks on my 72 (11/71) Lowest white mark on pulley is ZERO, if you look carefully you'll see the POINTER pointing right at it indicating TDC #1 cylinder

Correct. Front of engine to back of engine 1-2-3-4-5-6

The # 1 piston is at the top of it's stroke AND the Timing mark on the crankshaft dampner is at the correct "pointer" or "Zero" mark on the Timing scale (depends on what your car has) AND the rotor of the Distributor is pointing to the #1 contact of the Distributor Cap.

In the sellers pocket if anyone spends $30 + shipping on that crap!

You cannot tell if fuses are good by looking at them. You need to remove them all and test with an ohmmeter. Have your battery and alt checked checked by auto repair shop or parts store. Many will do this for free.

The reason I like to bash Porsches is that I still remember the Porsche 911 owners of the 70's in CA who pulled their heads out of their arse just long enough to stick it in the air at the thought of a Japanese car in the same race as they were................until that Japanese car waxed said arse quite nicely. Then they whined like babies. The cars were nice, if a bit quirky to drive, but it was the attitude of the owners that I hated most intensely. I don't know any hardcore Porsche owners anymore. They are still around, I just don't know them. Back to abusing my elbows !:stupid:

Your best bet is to have the car inspected by a local shop to see the EXACT condition of all systems on the car. Sitting for two years does no good at all for the condition of the car. www.nadaguides.com/ can give you an idea of the worth of such a car.

You might also want to check to be sure that the spark plug wires and connected in the correct order. 1-5-3-6-2-4

Hi Stephen, I know that you knew that I knew that you knew. Just was trying to make it clear to any others who hadn't read the previous thread about the product.

Enough with the suspense. Is it a state secret?

At my (51) age, I said screw it with wrestling the trans and spent the measley $20 to rent a transmission jack. Made the job easy. Slide the trans under the car, then (from behind the trans) slide the trans onto the jack and secure it. Raise the trans via the jack and wiggle it forward until the input shaft slides into the pilot bushing. Bolt it up. Jack rental was less than $20 for 4 hours and I had it back to the rental yard in 2 hours. No Strain, No Pain!

I'm not the one to write a big article for you. but I can tell you that you'll gain drivability if you switch to some form of electronic distributor. Smoother acceleration and seemingly a tad more power (judging by the seat of my pants). Either go with a 280Z or ZX distributor, or if your current distributor is in good shape, dump the points and condensor and pop in a Pertronix Ignitor (This is what I did). There is a article on installation of Pertronix in our Tech Articles forum. If you decide to go the Pertronix route, I have a new kit that has been prepared for installation (wiring properly lengthened and connectors attached (soldered and shrink tubed) but is as yet unused. Send me a PM if you become interested.

The CD's Courtesy sells were created by another company, Courtesy is merely a reseller. Hate to see them get too much credit for the product. There are also a couple of commercials on the club Parts Microfiche CD. Listed under "Free Stuff".

Live less than a mile from where I (allegedly) grew up. If I could find a cool job else where, I'd be gone in a heartbeat.

Sorry, I don't like it. looks like Freddie Kruger hacked a Zed Picture. Liked your previous one MUCH better.

Yes.

That's what I was saying, agreeing with previous statements. A V6 was available, I assume it was a pushrod motor. Never really cared enough to stop by their pit stall and look! Too many Z cars and others to check out.

Capri's did compete, though not successfully against 240Z's on the racetrack in the US. Consistantly a backmarker from my recollection