Bambikiller240

Picture?

No, What does it say?

Nothing! I wish they had a Sonic in my town! Guess I'll have to be satisfied with an In N' Out Burger.

In a brief look at the auction I noticed that this 1971 240Z is claimed to have "intermittant wipers". I wonder if that is true? If so, it would lead one to suspect that Nissan used a 1973 wiring harness in the "resto" of this car, since the intermittant wipers were not available until the 1973 model cars. Also, no luggage straps in the back. What's up with that!?

Stephen: You are the second person to say this, however nobody posts any performance data. All we get is pictures, so that is all we can comment on. Come on someone post some performance info! Then we can talk about it!

This one is going to be like starting with a matchstick and restoring it to a Giant Sequoia.

Sorry, can't tell a thing about performance from Alfadog's picture.

Doesn't it look like a 240K?

Hey Ben, I found the dipstick that I thought I had stashed away. Amazing, it was in the first place I looked. Send me an email and we can make arrangements.

:stupid: :stupid: $hit! I see what you mean now. I was thinking "retract" rather than "recline". As sblake01 would say, "My bad!" I agree, for RECLINE on Type Two seats, the lever should be on the outside (near door). But for RECLINE on the Type 1 seats the knob would be on the inside.

Hi Mike: The label with shows "Up to July 73" is just the section of the microfiche in which BOTH types of seat are shown.

Hmm, the attachment fills the entire screen on my computer, but maybe this one will work better. As for being interesting........not really (to me). As long as it is there and works what diff does it make (unless you are being judged at the convention)?

I check that the battery connections are clean and in good order, then I'd check the status of the battery itself. The fusible link is basically a wire that will self destruct if subjected to excess current. If it is damaged, most times it would be apparent by visual inspection. (It is the short wire the goes from the wiring harness along the framerail and the starter) Ben, let me check. I "may" have an extra dipstick for you. I'll get back to you later this afternoon or evening. As for what happened to the dipstick, I once owned a Datsun 1200 and the dipstick in it disappeared. It is located similar to the Z dipstick and it turned out that if I wiggled the dipstick with the engine running, it could contact one of the counterweights of the crankshaft. I guessed that either the stick somehow hit the crank, or that blow-by pressure from the engine pushed it out of the dipstick tube.

Here's the attachment

I submit for your inspection the attached screen print from the Nissan Z Parts Microfiche. I am surprised that that Vickys Z Store resto car has the seats placed as she describes. All of the 3 240Z's that I've owned since 1975 have had the seats placed as shown in the attachment.

Both seats should have the lever at the INSIDE (i.e. near the Trans Tunnel).

The seller is located in Ontario. Perhaps he bought these from Charlie?

Hi Ben: I think that Daves SU's have been modified a bit by Rebello. I'm not sure what all was done, but I believe they enlarged the diameter of the throats. But, anyway, as you state; SU's can supply high horsepower motors. Most folks would have no "need" to switch to a 4 bbl, or triples for that matter. Just one of those quirky mods that some people "like" to do.

This subject was recently discussed. You may want to use our search function to find the appropriate thread. As I recall, the console itself is the same, but instead of the boot for the shifter, there is an insert that you must find and install to accomodate the auto shifter handle. Good Luck

No, they do not. You need to buy or borrow a volt/ohmeter and do as others have suggested, find two voltage sources. One of the wires goes to a switched voltage source, the other goes to a unswitched source. It's not rocket science, ask one of your local friends who knows a little about electronics to look at it with you.

"New" dashes, if/when available were going for around $900 when I last priced them at Motorsport Auto and Nissan IMO, On a 'Sonic' salary, your best bet is a good quality FULL Dash Cap (NOT the crappy Half Caps that only cover the top of the Dash) "carefully installed". Later on you can upgrade to a restoration of the dash if you desire.

No worries! It takes sleeping in the same bed with someone of the opposite sex for a few years for a full appreciation of the humor (and reality) of the situation to hit you.

Yeah, the diamond was faster than the Jag (as were most of the other cars in the race).

There is only one way to tell which you have..............remove the head from the block. HOW do you tell? Short answer is to look at the shape of the combustion chamber. Long answer is to use the SEARCH function on this website (use "early E88" as your search term_. This has been discussed a dozen times and people have attached pictures of the combustion chambers etc in those threads. You can find the answers to a lot of common questions through the search function. (we tend to talk about this kind of stuff alot)