Everything posted by Bambikiller240
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Glove box replacement?
I got the new glovebox installed on Tuesday. I'd forgotten how much you have to contort the old box to get it out. I managed to pretty much destroy the old brittle box in removing it. I was a bit worried about damaging the new one while installing it, but it came through just fine. It fits perfectly and is a very welcome addition to the interior of my car. Thumbs up to MikeW!
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FW rubber grommet for engine harness
I looked for one briefly, and couldn't find a source.
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'81 280ZX 2+2 L28,5spd,R200 into my '74 260z
Where can we see? EDIT: Nevermind, I see that you editted yoiur first post to include a picture. :stupid:
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Need help again lol
I always loosen that huge crank pulley bolt before I take the transmission and driveshaft out of the car. I put the trans in 4th or 5th gear, set the E-brake to keep the engine from rotating easily and loosen the bolt. Then I use a pulley puller to remove the pulley/dampner from the crank. If you have the trans disconnected from the engine, wait until the oil pan is removed and then wedge a piece of wood between a crankshaft counter-weight and the side of the block to keep the crank from rotating and you will be able to loosen the bolt As for the oil pan, be 100% positive that ALL bolts are removed and keep whacking it with a rubber or soft mallet. The pan can be really stuck tightly. Don't pry with a screw driver as you'll bend the lip of the pan and will have a hard time getting a good seal when the pan is reinstalled. If you have to, use a very wide putty knife or something like that to pry the pan from the block while whacking it. You want to spead the force to as wide of an area as you can.
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Was the 240z designed for America?
I'm agreeing with Ben in that ALL iterations of S30 are great and variations in what each different country (or market) received don't really make one "better" than another. In the USA we got what we got for two main reasons, Gov't requirements and Nissan perceptions of what our market wanted in a car. Matsuo-san's statement is good enough for me & I'll gladly let it go at that. He's the expert, who are we to argue the point?
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Was the 240z designed for America?
Beating a dead horse loses it's "fun factor" after the horse starts to rot, and this one has been talked to death.
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He's Dreamin'!!!!!!
For $19K AU, I'd expect him to mow my lawn each week if I bought the car.
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He's Dreamin'!!!!!!
Who is this guy?
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Is the 240Z mailing list working?
I'm on the digest verion of the 240z.org list and I haven't gotten my daily email for a couple of days, so it may not be on your end.
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Dumb move for July!
Knock the freeze plugs out of both sides of the block and look for the tap. Since you are taking it to a machine shop, if you can't find it or get it out, talk to the machine shop.
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Pertronix Test???
Ah yes. Very true in my case as well. Before rebuilding my engine, it would pull strong and consistant all the way to 6500 RPM and beyond if I asked it to do so(I very seldom did). After rebuilding my engine, when I reinstalled the carbs and ignition, the engine would perform just fine until about 3500 to 4200 RPM, then the engine would go "flat". Loose torque and power and jujst not pull strong. RPM would continue to rise, but s-l-o-w-l-y, then after about 4200 RPM the engine would get back to somewhat normal performance although it would "top out" in terms of RPM before 6000 RPM. In attempt to resolve the problem. initially I replaced the fuel pump and filter, then I moved to playing around with timing a bit, then swapping out the coil, and then the distributor (kept same Pertronix), then since I was "sure" that it was an ignition problem I bought another Pertonix and swapped it in. Same problem still existed. Problem turned out to be the carbs were not functioning properly. I had never considered them because "they had worked fine for 30+ years" and I hadn't done anything to them to cause a change. I had a set of ZTherapy reman SU's sitting in the shop, but had wanted to ensure that the engine was running fine before installing them. After a bit of discussion with members of the club, "Blitzkraig" suggested trying the new carbs, so we installed them and he graciously tuned them for me and the problem finally was solved.
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Pertronix Test???
On my Pertronix Ignitor, the air gap between the ring of magnets and the Ignitor (pick-up) is fixed. i.e. it cannot be altered. Also, the troubleshooting guide on the Pertronix site is geared more toward installation problems rather than troubleshooting a failure of a previously functioning unit. It wasn't very helpful to me when I suspected an Ignitor failure. (It turned out that it wasn't the Pertronix.) Hopefully, calling will get you more information. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- "Since I have installed the Ignitorâ„¢ the engine won’t start. What can I check? The first step in trouble shooting involves answering a few questions. Do you have the correct kit for your application? Did the Ignitor install without any modification? Was the Ignitor installed according to the instructions? Did the engine run prior to the installation of the Ignitor? If you answered "NO" to any of the previous questions, go back and correct the condition before proceeding. If the answer to these questions is “YESâ€, then review some additional common solutions to a no start condition. The position in which the Ignitor red wire is attached to is not supplying sufficient voltage. The air gap between the module and magnet sleeve is too great. The ground wire inside the distributor is not connected. The wire connections are not tight. The polarity is not correct. ------------- What type of coil can I use with the Ignitorâ„¢? How do I check my coils resistance? (12V negative ground only) To determine if your systems coil is compatible with the Ignitor, some measurements should be taken prior to installation of the Ignitor. Caution… While performing this test, never leave the ignition switch on for more than 30 seconds at a time. Set your voltmeter to a 15 or 20-volt scale. Attach an 18 or 20 AWG jumper wire from the negative coil terminal to an engine ground. Attach positive (red) lead of your voltmeter to the positive side of the coil, and the negative (black) lead to an engine ground. Turn the ignition switch to the run position. Now read the voltage at the positive coil terminal. Turn the ignition switch off. If the voltage measured is approximately 12 volts, no resistance wire is present. A typical resistance wire will provide 9 - 6 volts. The next step is to determine the resistance in the primary ignition. Label the wires attached to the coil terminals and note their appropriate location. Make sure that the ignition switch is off and disconnect all wires from the coil. Adjust your meter to the lowest ? ohm scale. If you are using an analog style meter make sure to zero the needle. Measure from the negative terminal to the positive terminal. Write your measurement down. Now the maximum system amperage can be determined, divide your voltage measurement by your coil resistance measurement. This will give you the system current or amperage. Four cylinder engines should not exceed 4 amps. Six and eight cylinder engines should not exceed 8.5 amps. If the total amperage in your system is higher than the amount recommended for your application, you should install a ballast resistor. Example Voltage 12 Resistance 1.5 12 / 1.5 = 8 Total amperage 8 ---------------- What will happen if I leave the ignition switch on when the engine is not running? Leaving the ignition switch on when the engine is not running, can cause permanent damage to the ignition system, and related components. This does not apply to the accessory position of the ignition switch."
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whirring sound
It could be the clutch t/o bearing, transmission, or rear end. If the sound goes away when the clutch is disengaged I'd suspect the t/o bearing first, but someone is going to need to listen to each component while the car operating (in gear) on a lift to attempt to determine by ear where the sound is coming from.
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How do you install headers? Underneath or remove intake?
Normally you would remove the intake manifold AND the exhaust manifold. The reason for this is that in almost all cases removal of one manifold ruins the one gasket that is used for BOTH intake and Exhaust (or header) manifolds. The two manifolds share many common studs/nuts securing BOTH to the cylinder head so it isn't like doing this adds much work to the job.
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New-age punishment for kids
.............and without rules, consequences, and a firm guiding parental mind and hand in charge of them, all the sweet talking, reasoning, love, respect, and psycho mumbo-jumbo in the world won't do any good. Some children are just plain monsters....created by parents who want to be their childrens "friend" and neglect to "parent" them. When children turn into monsters, it is usually the fault of their parents.
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Pertronix Test???
I'm not aware of one. But if there is one, I'd like to know about it also. If it turns out you do need another Pertronix, I have one. PM me. EDIT : SOLD!
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My kinda luck...
"sophisticated" is for sissys. "Moorehed" is for everybody.
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Removing Handbrake cable is HARD!!!
What specific problem are you having?
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simon in motion
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Engine bay light cover
If we are talking about a 240Z, I have never seen a metal, or a rubber cover for the Engine Bay Light. There were no "options" on the 240Z, except what a dealer might tack on, like wheels, A/C, Floor Mats, Console arm rest, Vinyl Top, side mouldings, fuzzy dice, etc. None of this stuff was Nissan stuff, it was all aftermarket, though some was declared as a "factory authorized dealer option". Anybody know if 260/280Z's had something like this?
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MidwestZ??
I hope that is all it is, but most folks would announce something on the telephone answering machine and/or with an auto-response to incoming emails.
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Posting photos
You can "attach" a picture file to your post like ChrisA mentioned. or To actually post picture files to your (or any) Gallery, you click on the "Gallery" tab at the top of the Home page, which will take you to a nother page. From there you click "upload photos" which is just below the TABS on the upper right. That gets you to the page where you can actually do the upload.
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My kinda luck...
Moosehead is a Canadian beer, Moorehed is lifelong goal!
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New-age punishment for kids
..............and settin down the rules & demanding respect needs to be done early in child rearing. It isn't something that you can start when they reach 8, 10 or 12 when they can really start to get in trouble. By then it is too late and parents would be in for a helluva time. I've seen it many times, "My children are such angels, sure they sass me, and don't always do what I ask them, but they don't get into real trouble." Then they reach about 10 or 12 and they become real uncontrollable monsters.
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How old were you?
Hi Rick I can't take credit for the pic, someone else from the club posted it a couple years ago in a similar thread, and I liked it, so I saved it to home. Carl