Bambikiller240

The pictures provided by PrOxLaMuS are great, but will only help if your 260Z is of the "LATE" type. 240Z's and EARLY 260Z's didn't have all that stuff, just a simple water control valve and 3 hoses.

Smilies gave it away for me.

Moyest Not sure how he missed the obvious sarcasm of your post. But I guess he did. PS I thought it was funny.

More Nissan world-wide parts "games".

That is the way my 73 and late 71 Z's were, and I suspect that my 72 was that way before the P.O. played around. Currently my Hatch has a different lock/key. All are two sided keys. The OEM Lock Set I bought friom Courtesy Nissan late last year has all locks keyed alike.

Disc, P/P, Flywheel, and Throw-out bearing arm & collar, & slave cylinder is all I am aware of that would need changing.

I have no experience with the Crane Hi-6, but have seen many people post that they have problems with the Tach when using it,until they get the adapter installed. If you choose not to get an adapter, how about a Pertronix Ignitor in your Euro Dizzy instead of points? Inexpensive, & reliable. Any Hi -Perf coil will help too. Just make sure you get one that matches how you have the car set up (ballast resistor still in the car, or no ballast resistor)

Your local full service auto parts store should be able to get you all the gaskets you'd need/want. They may have to order them from the warehouse, but it usually only takes a day or two to get them. Fel-Blow (Fel-Pro) is only one brand of gasket kit. Some folks like them, some don't. Keith is right on the steering rack bushings, it's far easier to replace them with the engine out. Same with the steering coupler disc.

While the engine bay is empty, take the opportunity to climb in there and CLEAN it thoroughly.

Glad that you got your parts Greg. Based on previous dealings with Chloe, I feel certain that there must be a valid reason for the delay in shipment. Legalities, illness, or something. Odd that there wasn't an invoice, or business card in the package as she was always careful to include those things. Maybe someone else sent your parts on her behalf? I wish Chloe would get in touch with us & let us know she's OK.

www.hybridz.org

On the page where you type in your post, scroll down a bit to where it says "Additional Options". In that area is a button that says "Manage Attachments", click that. A small window will open with a button that says "Browse" click that button. Another window opens to the files on your computer, select the photo file that you want to upload by double clicking. After that, the window to your files closes, and you then click on "Upload" button on the "Manage Attachments" window. When the upload is complete you can close that window and complete your post as you would normally, with the attachment included.

Steve: I think that you will find that these balance tubes for the early SU's are in quite high demand due to people wanting to dump the Flat-Top carbs on their 73 and 74 Z's, not to mention people like yourself switching back to SU's from Webers, 4 bbl's and other carbs. To say that they "should only be a few dollars" is fine as a personal opinion, but does not reflect the reality of the market for them. FYI, ZTherapy used to have balance tubes that were not of "show quality" as well as the polished, fancy ones. They were cheaper than the polished ones, but were not sold for just a "few dollars". I hope you find what you are looking for, but unless you are very lucky you are not going to find one for "a few dollars". The market drives the price, and the market demand is quite high.

There are always alternatives, but many of them aren't worth a $hit. Sometimes people need a little dose graphic reality to wake them up from their foolish endevours. As far as I am concerned for most people there ISN"T an alternative to buying a new or used OEM part. Cuttng and grafting something onto the remnants of the original hose is a stop gap measure at best, and at worst, downright dangerous. Making a new one, like Will describes is fine if you have the skills and equipment (and are willing to sacrifice a new part to make the mold), but it isn't practical for *most* of us. Which is not to discourage Will from tackling the job, as if he is successful, many could benefit from his labors.

I've never tried to hide THAT!

On Carl's MIND ! ! !

Looks like the right tool. Spray WD40 or other penetrating oil all over the inside of the pulley where the big bolt used to be? What happens when you crank on the big wrench attached to the pulley puller tool?

Guus: If you had been following this thread from the beginning you'd realize that we have called, faxed, someone has physically gone to the address and left a message, someone has sent a certified letter, local hospitals have been called, an email expressing concern for her has been sent to her local Police dept. In short, we have done everything we can possibly think to do to check on her welfare. To date there has been no response to any of our attempts. She was routinely in touch with one or another of the members here on an almost daily basis, and had eBay auctions running constantly until sometime in June, then she seems to have dropped off the face of the earth.

Where do you hear horror storys about PU bushings? Not on this site! If you want tighter handling, you basically have two choices, SOLID mount (aluminum/delrin, or heim joints), or Polyeurethane. AFAIK, there isn't much else to choose from. Generally SOLID mounts are not recommended for street driven cars. If you don't autocross or don't want "tighter handling" then stick with OEM Rubber bushings.

It's looking to me like the business has been sold, or otherwise taken over by someone else. I'd still like to know about how Chloe is doing.

Naw, it was an entrant in the WRC Ralley of Britain. I forget what website I found it on.

Well, not on a Z, but it's the thought that counts!

Well, *somebody* has to be interested in it, and since you aren't..............errrr, wellllll, never mind! :cheeky: :cheeky: Just fooling with you, Bill. Whether you have, or haven't; doesn't matter to me. I keep score only for my own game.

You are refering to the linkage from the firewall to the bracket on the balance tube, not the lnkage between the two carbs, right? Linkages for 73 are different from 71, I know that much. Su's v.s. Flat-Tops. I never had the chance to compare 71 v.s. 72 linkages. (but I would expect them to be the same)

Sounds a little PERV to me! But an interesting thought none the less!