Bambikiller240

Here is another part (in addition to the vent hoses themselves that can cause gas fumes to be "smelt" in the passenger cabin. The part is NLA, so if yours is broken, you'll have to find one. I tried to replace it with a section of steel tubing and it didn't work worth a damn. Evidently the "barbed" ends help with sealing quite a bit. Found the right part and installed and no smell since.

I had no idea what MSnS meant. Fiqured it was some secret Volvo mojo and since I'm not into them, I don't view that part of your website. Hey, whatever happened with the "fan kissing the radiator" issues? Did you find out a cause or just convert to electric?

kyle, Which "other" car has the megasquirt? The Riv(erboat)?

The moderator didn't know the list has been down for almost 2 months???? This site is the CLASSIC Z CAR CLUB not many of us have ZXT knowledge. But I'm sure someone here can give you some info.

Wasn't trying to poke fun at you, but paint/powdercoating/finish is *almost always* the last step. Painting the lines isn't that difficult, or expensive to do; so if you can't get them clean without damaging the paint, just bite the bullet, clean properly and repaint. You won't be the first to end up doing that. (pointing to self)

Hi Marc: Actually the "Heatshield" is just one of several shades that are good. IMO, 100% UV blocking and insulation properties are the most important chaectoristics.......along with proper fit. I chose Heatshield because thier porduct worked good for a friend, and they are local, will custom fit the shade to a Z car (they already have the pattern), and the price was right. They have a multiple shade discount, so if you or your family needs a shade for another car, it pays to order 2 or more at the same time. Look on the bright side, the dash lasted since 75, so if you get it recovered, it should last another 29 years or more.

Try blowing high pressure, high volume air from each side and hopefully whatever is plugging it up will get blown out one side or the other. That's all I can suggest.

There is no valve of any kind between the points that you mention.

Marc: My experience has been that once a crack starts, it will continue to grow. The damage has been done. About all you can do is make every effort to protect the dash from excessive heat, and Ultaviolet exposure to minimize the speed at which the crack will grow. Use a "Heatshield" on the windshield, and cover the dash with a nice thick towel as well when you aren't driving it. They are made in Sunnyvale and are fairly inexpensive. Link to CanvasWorks (makers of Heatshield) Keep the fresh air vents open on hot days also to minimize the "Barbie E-Z Bake Oven" syndrome. Oh, and start planning on replacing the dash (or having the dash recovered) some day cause unfortunately the cracks will not go away

Actually the cleaning should have been done first and the making it pretty should have come last. First things first and all that.

So, what did you have to do to get it working properly?

Banned from their site? Just because you posted the joke thread which was so similar to what that clown "ls1240Z" posted here when he wanted to incite a flame war? they must be road apples.

I have also used the Pertronix Ignitor installed in a Nissan OEM Rebuilt stock 240Z distributor ($130 from Courtesy Nissan) with zero problems. Like Chino 240Z says, "Set it and forget it!"

If you use water to clean the inside of any metal lines, use compressed air afterwards to help dry the inside. I used solvent, then compressed air, and then left the lines out in the sun on a 90 degree day to ensure the inside was clean and dry. From that point on I used rubber plugs to keep dirt and moisture out of the lines while I painted and re-installed them.

The shifter boot looks very weird. The shape is quite funky, and the height of the shifter seems too high IMO.

You can still send email to governor@governor.ca.gov The address doesn't appear as a "clickable" link becasue the thread is not in a regular forum. Just use "governor "at" governor.ca.gov" (use the @ symbol and no spaces) and reference "AB 2683, Air Polution"

Connections will likely be different, but you should be able to swap connectors or rewire to work in your 240Z. There are a few people in the US that take 280Z "Quartz" clock mechanisms and install them in 240Z clock housings, retaining the 240Z faceplate and connectors. They work great.

neither link works EDIT: Finally found the threads, Lachlan has already posted corect links by the time I got back here. Rest in Peace, William

I found it on a Corvette forum about a year ago. I collect and save lots of small (and hopefully funny) images for use as avatars.

Sold for $5305.00 Price didn't end up so low after all.

Ben: If you want to see what was offered in the Datsun Competition Parts catalog for USA, just remind me next time we get together. I have a 1979/80 copy with a price list that you can look at.

It was common here in SF Bay area when I was growing up. No one (well very few) seem to bother "warning a brother" any more.

There is a whole long list of file extensions that "should be allowed" (are listed as valid extensions). The only problem is that they cannot be uploaded. Try them. Maybe Mike has not specifically "enabled" their use? I've tried to upload .bmp, .pdf, and .doc files with ZERO success. You can convert file types with MS- Paint.

See attached picture of one of my spare suspension hubs. It is marked "B" for the middle length Distance piece. You might need to apply solvent and a wire brush to the hub to clean the surface in order to see the stamped mark. Thanks to panchovisa for guiding me to the mark.

You will defintiely encounter problems with the latching mechanisms. Interior panels and arm rests will be different as well Do a search on the site and you will find lots of info on when the latching sytem changed. IIRC, Basically it is 240 - early (75) 280Z doors will interchange