justaZcarguy

Morning! Enrique, I was referring to a post you did back in Jan where you said not to ask about the garage carpet smelling like gas... Which by the way. I now have the same problem. I discovered that it was not the pebble after all, but a hose at the top of the tank, figures, the way it pooled around the strap was a bit misleading... Thanks for the advice all, it was all great and I will use it! By the way Enrique, howz the roadster?????? Have a great Tuesday... ~Brian

Hello All, FIRST let me say this is a temporary fix until I can hibernate the Z in the garage to pull the tank and fix it right and do the return hoses as well, presently they are not leaking, but we all know it's a matter o' time. That being said, who has had luck with patching a tank with something like JB Weld? It appears that a small pebble has gotten between the strap and tank (I can't figure out how either) and yesterday when I filled it, I think the extra weight worked a small hole into the tank. I plan on removing the strap, and yes, with the tank supported as Kmack and EScanlon already know about... (Sorry guys...) Once while out on a hill climb in a '72 4X4 Blazer I poked a small hole in the tank during a climb and I used JB Kwik and it still is working today and that was three years ago... I was wondering if there is something someone else has used and had luck with... Keep in mind this is a small pinhole and not leaking too badly, but I bet that will change once I remove the small intruder. Thanks fellow Zpeople, have a great day!! ~Brian

Thanks all, I'll check them out, I'll have to get one for me and one for my son, that way maybe I'll be able to keep mine, i doubt it tho, I can't even keep him out of the real one! 6 years old and already has the diZeaZe... Gotta be proud. Have a great Sunday all!! ~Brian

Upon further inspection, the auto parts guy sold me a 195 degree thermostat. WAAAAAAAAYYY too hot, now there is a 180 degree in there and things are much better in Zville. The noise ended up being the control valve closed just a bit, way it did not make noise before is beyond me... Thanks for the info!

Yes, I do mean the die cast... Thanks for the info, I'll check into them. Wow, I can double my money in Australia? That means I can be twice as poor!!

Howdy everyone!! I need a link to a site that offers replica Z-cars, please help! I need one for the inside of the house, yes, this is a sickness.... I know there are sites out there, anyone suggest one? Thanks All, Have a helluva Z weekend! ~Brian

What did you have to modify to get them to fit? ~Brian

Anybody out there running a 190 degree thermostat? And if so, where does the needle sit (on a stock '72) gauge? I noticed a while back that I had no thermostat in the system, so when I changed my water pump I also put in a new thermostat. I let it run after installation for a good twenty minutes and no over heat and good heat out of the defrost. Ran down to get a bushel of blonde lager and the damn thing overheated, not quite in the red, but definitly hot. When I finally did get the cap off, the coolant level was right where it should be. ?????????? Also, now that I have made these changes, upon a fairly modreate rpm, I hear a new noise in the heater core / valve that sounds like the "woosh" of water that was never there before this surgery.... Any advice on the two questions? Thanks all... Brian

"I get 14mpg at best." SMG, could it be the TRIPLE carbs? hmmmmmmm... Brian

Hello All, Yesterday I drove to Salem (Oregon) and visited the guys at ZTherapy and it was an awesome experience! Steve was very helpful, when he found something wrong with the carbs, he explained what the problem was and how it was affecting the operation of the engine. The SM needles and new jets made a HUGE difference in the runnability and performance of the engine! I learned a ton of stuff, I can't say enough good things about Steve and Bruce and their knowledge of these carbs. I would suggest that you visit the web site at ZTherapy.com and call them with questions / orders, the money I spent there was worth the knowledge alone, it will also improve my gas mileage! They have a top notch operation...Check 'em out!! Brian

Yes, I've checked the choke and the float level. Out of curiousity, what else could attribute to this? Brian

Hello all, Here's the scenario.... Switched carbs from the flat-tops to 3 screw rounds, the front in running rich no matter what adjustment is made. Here's the question: Is it fair to say that I could take another 3 screw, adjust it the same exactly idle/mixture wise, use the same needle, and switch 'em? (just the front one) In my head, which is dangerous, the car should just start up and run as if the other carb was still there. And hopefully eliminate the rich mixture from the front problem? I have adjusted everything on the darn thing and when I lift up on the front piston, the smoke clears. Ideas / advice? Thanks, have a great day! Brian

First of all, let me say how amazed I am that that people that have never met face-to-face can pull together and help a friend in need. Keith, Your mother is lucky to have a dedicated son, such as yourself, to be by her side and aide her in this most difficult time. The support and love you are giving her is more powerful that any medication out there, continue your dedication and remain strong. Your family is in our prayers and we will be thinking of you. Best regards, Brian and the LeClair family.

Mornin'! Yesterday I switched from the flat-tops to a set of round... No vac leaks, no fuel leaks. Back carb is running rich, VERY rich. We are talking Richy Rich here, the adjustment for the jets on the bottom of the carb is dialed ALL the way up and the car still runs. Idle seems smooth is the funny thing, then, if you depress the throttle about half way and hold it, you get a motor that's suddenly only reving about 800 then falling, acting like it's starving instead of climbing in RPM. This is if you depress the throttle and hold it, it just sits and stumbles like it's running out of fuel. Which there is little or no rich smoke coming out the exhaust during this, but if you just quickly depress the throttle and let it go, you get a quick rev and a lot of black smoke, like rich burn, not blue like oil smoke. I have never messed around with these carbs, this is a first for me. I have a air synchrometer and they are both balanced flow wise. There is 3 and 1 oil in the chambers (about 20wt.). The front carb seems to be operating fine. Now, I am getting this result by lifting up the pistion all the way into the dome and seeing if the engine stumbles. (Running lean, right?) it stumbles when I lift up the piston in the rear carb, but runs smooth when the front piston is all the way up. I've waited for it to begin to stumble and it won't. So, you would dial up on the bottom adjustment to lean it out, right? (on the rear carb) Well, the adjustment is dialed ALL the way up (on both carbs). And with the adjustment knobs on the bottom of the carb all the up on both, how is the engine even running? I thought the needle would be "seated" and this would cut off fuel???? Sorry to ramble on, it's early and I need some coffee. Anyway, I also need some help... Thanks all.... Have a nice Sunday! With any luck I will also! :tapemouth

OK, here's the scenario, this engine is the one in the '74 260. It's been built from head to toe, L28 / N42 setup, bored, hemispherical pistons, cam, head is polished and ported, mikuni intake with triple mikunis, mallory dual point ign., headers, bla, bla, bla. The motor sat for about 1 year. Has been run hard for the last 40k miles or so. Compression on the number 1 hole (front of the motor, closest to the fan) is 150. The heat coming off the header at that hole is way cooler that the rest. Seems to miss. Have replaced the wires, plugs, cap rotor... With the compression at 150 it doesn't seem like it could be rings. I know this is vague, anyone have a place to start on this? The motor has plenty of power but the miss is driving me crazy, and no, it does not seem like a cam rough idle. I can give specifics on the exhaust temps later but last time I checked it was 100 degrees difference or so. This was established by using an infared temp gun with a laser. Advice? Places to start? If this is not enough info, I'm sorry, this is being composed at work and I need to hurry. Questions are welcome.... Just need a place to start on this.... Thanks all!

I just had to say that the new site looks GREAT!! (And yes, you can say that "Tony the tiger style"...) The new chat room is a great upgrade!!!! I have to say I kind miss "Shout" tho, it was a great way to start my day.... In short, Thanks for all your hard work and dedication to not only an excellent car / sickness, but to also a bunch of people that have made this site a part of their everyday lives!! THANK YOU MIKE!! Bri.

In some sick way that makes total sense...:sick: Now just tell me how to tune my triple mikuni setup and we'll be great. I actually have a somewhat dead number 1 hole that I need to address. This motor is on the '74 260. But that's a whole different posting... Ya'll have a great Tuesday!!! Bri

Hello, I have been told that the stock "round tops" that were produced earlier that your flat top Hit's will deliver all the fuel that the motor needs. Currently I am in the process of switching over to the round tops from the flats on my '73 240... The performance is much better from the homework that I have done. You may want to check out Ztherapy.com, they have some excellent advice. Good luck! Bri.

Hey Alan!!! Thanks for the reply that we have all been waiting for!!! I still wish that I had 1/10th of your knowledge!! Any advice on what would cause a lean miss in these carbs?? These sat for a while and the number one seems to have a pop to it. I can't complain tho, I got the whole car cheap.... Thanks for any advice... Have a great Monday!! (Sorry 'bout the K&N's )

The time has come to switch over the flat-tops to a set of round tops.... Here's the question: What is different regarding the linkage set up ? Can I use the existing firewall set up? I've been told that the only linkage difference is the between the carbs... Help!! Thanks everyone!!

How are ya???? Could be...the problem was MUCH worse before the intake redo, you could actually feel the air hit your fingers upon backfiring and when I shot carb cleaner in the area it was like getting a shot of NOS. When the choke is on it seems to change. Doesn't seem to do it as much... Funny thing is, the engine runs smooth at an idle and above the "troubled area". The guy that built the engine was over this weekend and said that if he and his father figured right, it was pushing around 300 h.p.. I won't have any idea how accurate that is until I get the clutch and water pump redone. I know this much, even WITH a spun clutch it wants to GO. Looks like it's centerforce time. He said that they tried to cheapo out with a stock clutch and it was history in about 20 miles. It just couldn't take it. Any other suggestions on clutch??? He got about two years on the centerforce, so I figure it works. I thought about having Ot's friction supply make me a paper / fibre setup. Anyway, thanks for the advice on the popping.... Have a great Saturday...Watch out for those corners :devious:

And no, this is not like a "near" miss. Which to me is kinda like "giant shrimp". ANYWAY, after replacing the intake / exhaust gasket on the 260 motor (L28/N42 combo, triple mikunis, cam, hemisphereical pistons, bored, polished / ported head, header bla,bla,bla...) I get a slight, quick "pop" of a backfire at around 2k on the tach... Lean miss? I'v checked all the nutz and they are tight. Done the spray test vacumn leak thing and found nuthin'.... The good news is that I HAVE NO IDEA HOW TO ADJUST THE MIKUNIS. sorry, didn't mean to yell :stupid: Suggestions??????? Thanks all! Hope your Friday the 13th was well.... Bri

yep laffeaux, $15,000 at Beaverton Nissan and $5,000 at Royal Moore Nissan in Hillsboro... They can both kiss my :tapemouth (Not that I could afford it even with NO mark up )

I can't believe the dealers are tacking on $15,000 ADP. It's robbery. Plain and simple. So much for sticking around 30k. I loved the commercials, I still prefer the 240 over 'em all...

OH MY GOD!!!! Just kidding Zvo... The diaphram in my stock guage was bad and it behaved similar, I switched over to a mechanical guage and it reads steady...About 60 at a run...I can attach pics of the placement inside the cockpit if u like, lemme know....