Victor Laury

That's about par for the course. Nissan used Aluminum bores. Once pitted, scored or ridged, it tears up the rebuild kit pretty dam quick. A common complaint with our Roadster brothers as well. We have come to the conclusion that once all avenues for new cylinders have been exhausted, we'll fall back to sendinding them out to a re-sleaving service, such a White Post Restorations in Virginia. I'm saving a couple of cores to do just that in the near future. http://www.whitepost.com/ (site was down when I tried) White Post Restorations One Old Car Drive Post Office Drawer D White Post, VA 22663 (540) 837-1140 Fax 837-2368 Ask for Billy or "W.R."

I'd like to make my belts black again, instead of faded gray. Any suggestions? I stopped by a shoe repair place and the fella suggested I use laundry dye (RIT brand at all the grocery stores).

I don't want to come off as a Know-it-all, or "high and Mighty" But, adjusting the carbs is absolutely the very last step in tuning the engine. If your adjusting the carbs without performing an orderly tune up, your setting them to compensate for other items that are poorly adjusted. #1 Points condition and gap #2 rotor and cap condition #3 Timing #4 Spark plug cable condition #5 Spark plug condition and gap #6 Valve adjustment #7 fuel supply filters and pressure #8 carb float adjustment #9 carb idle mixture #10 Carb Balance This is the checklist I use with success.

Yet another photo we need to keep in our reference section. Good one Mark!

Non-adjustable is not to be confused with Low performance. The Tokico HP "Blues" are stiff. They are about the eqivalent to the mid setting on the Luminas. They are not a very comfortable ride in my opinion. They give me the performance I was looking for. But my harshness is amplified by the Urethane bushes, MSA springs and thick juicy sway bars!

Don't Apologize! I think your statment sized up the insurance industry Perfectly!

Beautiful cars! Did they take it easy, or did they really race? I hear a common complaint that in Vintage racing, no one wants to push, afraid to damage the rare coachwork.

The transmission fill plug is on the side of the tranny, a 17mm square on the left side (passenger side for Aussies). Remove the plug and stick your finger in. If it comes out oiled, the box is full. Umm, you've got a 74 Austrialian Market 260?.. I don't know if that has the "B" 5 speed or the "A". Hopefully It's the "B", as parts for the "A" are getting stupid rare. The 5 speed for $150 is a bargan, less than it's core value. Buy it, rebuild it. If your current tranny turns out to be allright, buy it anyway and rebuild it in your leisure.

Well, If you've run out of adjustments, You've narrowed it down to syncros. Look for another box, have it gone through (or go throught it youself) and swap it out.

It's even of more value than you might think. Engines, our engines in paricular, run better when the crankcase has a negitive pressure, the more the merrier. The PCV system gives us enough. Some may contend that the "Dirty air" from the PCV and the valve-cover vent spoils the burn. But, I beleive it would only affect performance on a tired engine with lots of ring blow-by. So hook it back up. The hose for this is very specific, as it has a larger diameter one end, where it connects to the engine vent tube (below the exhaust port of #1)

ten bucks is a bargan!

Is there anything not sexy about a sweet running Z car?

Keith is giving good advice again. Pedal adjust is even more critical than slave free-play. The geometery of the clutch system comes to a sharp point, right at the pedal/clevis/yoke connection. It was amazing to me how little of an adjustment made such a big difference. When I bought my 72, the clutch was dragging. not only was it hard to shift, but I could feel it, tring to move the car with the pedal depressed. I thought no problem! Jack up the car and reduce the free-play, right? Wrong. The free play was already perfect. I began thinking of replacing the clutch, as there must be something mechanically wrong with it... right? Wrong. The pedal was the problem. The clevis pin was worn and the holes in the yoke were ovaled, Both totaled about 1/16'' wear. that 1/16'' was the difference between a perfect clutch and a perfect headache.

"Open", "closed" Isn't good terminology for SU's The chokes don't work that way. "Up" or "Down" could work better, but not clearly. Pulling the handle lowers the nozzle, a juicy pool of gas forms at the top of the lowered nozzle ready to be sucked up by a cold L motor. Even with Mikunis, "open" would describe when the choke is engaged, as the choke "starting circuit" is open when you pull the handle and "closed" for normal operation. But, "Close the chokes" is still accepted as engage the chokes. After all, the iconic symbol for choke is a butterfly valve closing a venturi. Looking down the throat of all my old American steel, it was easy to see if the chokes were closed.

Steve, It's a cornicopia of Z cars in Southern California! You cannot go wrong searching the recycler.com and the collector car trader

We've got a fellow in our roadster club with 2 SPL212's Visit his Web Site I've had the pleasure to drive his running show car (around the parking lot). It drives exactly like my 1965 320 pickup. Ha! some sports car! But it's pretty.

Didn't notice the Z, But that show was FUNNY!

As well as MSA, Too Intense and others. I bought from MSA. My only complaint is they did not have the lower peice availible. Afterward, my roadster supplier laughed at me saying the window channel profile Datsun used is WAY common and you can buy it cheap. Funny, he wouldn't tell me what the profile was, I can only guess it's because he sells it at the same price as everybody else.

Exactly. These systems would work great, If you stored your car in the bottom of the lake. Or buried in mud. Sacrificial anode and impressed current cathodic protection require a conductive media (soil, water) to work. Like a continuous, slow zinc plating operation, material from the anode is constantly being transferred to the surface of the steel.

Does any one have any expirence with LoJack? How much is it to install and how much is the subscription. If anyone steals my baby, I want it back and I want to put them in jail.

Be like Steve, Lose the bumper! When you see his 280Z climing up your tail pipe, there is no mistaking his car for anybody elses. It just looks mean. A mean green machine.

Yea, It's Asbestos. No worries. Most Asbestos hubub you hear is typical media overreaction. The ol Knee-Jerk. Asbestosis is bad. If you worked 10 or so years mining, refining or processing asbestos - nasty. Asbestos is just silicon but it has sharp points and it imbeds itself into lung tissue, irritating it over a LONG period. bad things happen. Same goes for sand. Sand blasters get Silicosis. Same problem, Same action, same result. No one bans the beach. I'd keep it. It was Nissan's answer to rising complaints of vaporlock. I have the Service Bulletin somewhere in my Nissan Maintenance bulletin books

The jury is still out on that one. Popular consencus votes to scrap the tuna can carbs. Some say the Hitachi's can be tuned to perfection - you just need to learn them. Many say that the DGV's will Never out perform a set of round tops, others swear by them. In my camp, simpler is better. Nothing is more simple than a set of round top SU's. 2 carbs, 2 moving parts each.

The head of the bolts are trapped, you can only turn the nuts.

Great Job on the Website,..... EVEN BETTER JOB ON THE CAR!!!!!!! WOW! You did it right! Good for you!