Mr Camouflage

To be Fair, He bought it like that, he didn't do it himself. If you read the text, instead of judging it by the pictures, youd know to blame the PO.

Man that guys a butcher. If he'd put a FG hood bulge on the bonet, ant least it could be removed, but this guy cut up the bonet and welded in a metal bulge that is totaly ugly, and serves no purpose, other than to vent hot engine bay air into the cowel where it is sucked into the interior vent system. If something let go in the engine bay, the windscreen would be covered with oil or coolant and you wouldnt be able to se where you are going.

Gav. You are still running the correct firing order, its just out of phase with the correct order. Someone hasnt made sure that everything was correctly timed up when they put the engine back together. Its 120 degrees out from standard. Seem odd, but if your engine runs, I wouldnt worry about it too much untill you rebuild the engine again. I'd remove spark plug number 1 and turn the engine over by hand untill #1 is on compression (you'd probably have to remove the valve cover to make sure). Then when its ad TDC, I'd open up the dizzy and see what number its pointing at. I'd guess that its pointing at number 1 (in your green numbering).

also www.311s.org forum www.311s.org/phpBB2/

Also, petrol, or turpentine on a pot scourer disolves the stuff for cleanup too.

Nice. What engine was under the hood when you got it? L20? L28?

Ohh yeah..... Chrome 240z I said it before somewhere that I'd like to see a chrome like finishe on a 240z. Would blind all the other drivers though.

Looks Like Nissan raided the Warehouse, and dusted off a few classic for this one. http://tanetane92.web.infoseek.co.jp/20031220nfts.html

I dont like the porsche styled fronts on the RX-7's

800 pounds. But when they find out how much it willl cost to ship it to the UK the deal will probably fall through. Unless they had loads of cash.

Finding a 280z moustache bar is easy. Just look for a 260Z with an R200. There are heaps of them around. A 280z is just a 260z with a L28 instead of a L26 The 260 2+2 i bought for parts had the R200 moustache bar, r200 with bolt on flanges.

You cutting them straight through the middle? The whole door, or just the skin?

A certain Offspring song springs to mind.

The best thing to do if you are being followed by some nut, is to drive straight to the nearest police station. And bemmerguy714, It was a dumb move posting what you did to the guys car on a public forum. Confessing to vandalising somebodys car, nomater what they did you you is still a confession. Better hope the cops dont read this forum, or you'll find youself on the wrong side of the law.

They are hard to find becuase not many people want them. No they dont add value to the car, unless you are buying a brand new car, then it costs more than the manual for some reason.

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Masonite is thin. about 3mm. Dont know is it has another name in the USA. Dark brown particle board type stuff. Or you could use a sheet pf acrylic plastic.

Its a vette. Heres a clearer picture without the gurney in the way. You can tell it's a vette by the shape of the door, and the fact that it's a firbreglass shell that has cracked open in places, like that crack running up the roof, and how the door had a large hole in it. Metal dents, firbreglass cracks and comes off in chunks.

So you wont be needing those triple solex's then?

That plumber truck is funny. How about painting it desert storm camouflage ? or even regular camouflage. How about:

All head unts have built in amps, other wise you'd have line level voltages and you wouldn't hear anything. The impedance of speaker wire is so small that it wouldn't affect the loudness. Problem is that the speakers arent matched to the power output of the head unit. If you have 100 watt rms speakers in the back and your head unit is 30 watts rms, and you have 30 watt rms speakers in the front, then they will be louder than the ones in the back, because the head unit doesnt have the power to produce the same loudness in the 100 watt speakers. Either get some speaker that are the same power rating as the front ones, or if you need really loud music coming from behind you, find an amp. You chould check out the manual for the head unit (or search for the information on google) to find out if it has speaker level outputs for front and rear, and what power rating they are, if it has line level outputs for amps. Also if it does have front and rear outputs, there is probably a front/rear fader. You'd want to check that the rears aren't set on a quieter setting. I'd probably do that first before buying an amp or new speakers.

Yeah I probably would... And by doing so I would learn how it works and how to fix it, usually.. Actually I'wouldnt buy a rolex, I'd get a Japanese copy of a rolex, Just like my Japanese copies of Gibson Guitars (by Ibanez) and My Japanese copy of a porsche/e-type/ferrari (by Datsun) , which I have taken all apart with no formal mechanical training. But I'm good at that sort of thing, and have done it to other cars before. With the proper manual, you should be able to put them back together. You might need to get somone else to tune them though. Some times you just have to know when to leave it to the experts. Like I do with gearboxes. Good luck with it. Solex Carbs were a pretty common swap in Japan. They were fitted to 240Z rally cars, and the Z432R, Skyline GTR probably had them too, and lots of roadsters have them bolted on their U20's. Dont know for sure, but I'm guessing they were available through nissan motorsport.

MDF or masonite. Glue some black vinyl over it. sweet.

My Tip: Remember to disconnect the handbrake cables from the levers at each brake drum

Check the specs on you head unit. It may have front and rear speaker outputs already. If not you can wire the left and right channels to the front and rear for a 50/50 front/rear split.