24OZ

Nice find! Wish it was this easy and cheap to come across parts cars in England. Do you want to sell the front side repeater? I just need the lens and the chrome fastener. I smashed mine in a freak garage accident late at night!:stupid: Managed to super glue all the bits together, you can hardly tell, but it just aint right!!:disappoin PM me if you want. Thanks.

Does anyone have a spare black plastic cover which fits over the bolt that bolts the seat belt to the rear of the car, by the hatch? THANKS.

Dave thanks very much for pointing me in the right direction, great article!

My drivers side seat has a tear on the seat. Whats the best way of replacing this? Can I just find another seat and remove the vinyl from it and install it onto mine, is it an easy thing to do? OR would it be better to find another drivers side seat and replace just the base of the seat. Thanks.

Enrique, you are correct and I thank you for your 2 cents.

Yes Enrique they're wired intentionally together. Not by me, so I don't know what the advantage of doing this was. Its a real hassle as it means that in the fuse box one of the left or right fuses is redundant (cant remember which one) this means I have to use a higher blowing fuse to cope with the extra current. I havent had any problems so far, just that the right is dimmer then the left, however i have seen it work so its a new problem and not because their wired together. Thanks for the input any ideas as to why someone would bother wiring them up like this?? I guess this may have been done when the L28 and all the FI stuff was installed?? But then again why interfere with the lights for an engine swap? I dunno.....:stupid:

Thats a great idea thanks, especially when considering what a pain they are to get too.

All great suggestions however in my case it cant be a bad connection at the fuse end as both left and right lights are wired together. I guess I'll try swapping the bulbs and seeing if it moves to the other light. Any other suggestions? THANKS!

So there you go, print it, cut it out and stick it. They may not even notice and you've saved yourself some $$$. I may do the same, where does it attach too?

Z Nuts site looks good, let us know the URL when you've finished :beard:

Marty, Give these people a try they may have what you're looking for. http://www.zzxdatsun.com/parts.htm

yeah please help, my right one is dim as well!

I agree and there isnt really any power left past 5,000 anyway, all your doing in unecessarily straining the engine and reducing its life. This is my dyno results I had just bought the car at the time and didnt want to push it over 5,000 Revs but as you can see not that much power left up there anyway. The L28 is stock apart from Cold Aird Induction. Ignore run 1 and run 2 as they went a bit wrong, notice how they just sharply die off. Run 3 is as far as I know how its supposed to look like on a fairly stock L28 FI motor. No extra torque after about 4400rpm, incidentally it peaked at 148ft/lb. I dont know why the other runs peaked over 150, I think they werent doing something write at the dyno centre. Well anyway thats what it looks like for what its worth. I also think my seals are worn as occasionally I do smell oil when I push it so it probably could look better with an engine rebuild.

I've got an L28 from a 280ZX in my 240Z, it redlines about 5,500. But I never really take it past 5,300 very often. I have the original 240Z Tach and it worries me when leaving my car for work or lending it to anyone as I'm thinking they'll look at the tachometer and push it into way too high revs.

Never head of this before? Who is Black Beauty 280Z?

Hi 260Z!! It does look like a 280z to me from the bumpers, however some late 260's had these too. Due to the fact you have the indicators mounted in the radiator grill was a 280Z trait that was not shared by any other model, i think....... On the centre console above the cold/hot air vents do you have a yellow indicator marked Floor Temp and to the right of it a red light indicator marked fuel?? If you do this is a 280z! Someone shout if they think differently!! The best way to check is too look at your Vin number and compare it with info. on www.zhome.com Nice looking car by the way , i only drive mine in the summer months too. Nearly forgot to add, whats the engine size of your car??? 2.8 would suggest a 280z and a 2.6 a 260z - unless someone has done a transplant.

Whats the deal with these tags? Once you get one cant you keep it for good? Keith the one you had was great, why didnt you keep it?? How about, Z E X Y or 2 Z E X Y 4U (Can you have numbers in it as well?)

The interchangeable wheel thread (4 X 114.3) is a great start for wheels but what about other parts? Has anyone compiled a list of interchangeable parts other then wheels from non Z cars? Would be very useful when going to the salvage yards. We will know exactly what would work and what wouldnt! I've heard of throttle bodies, alternators etc.. that work with some of our models but the info is scattered all over the net. Let me get the ball rolling with an obviouse one thats been a brake upgrade for many. Toyota 4 x 4 Calipers - 1979-83 Toyota Pick up (4 cylinder model, stamped with S12 on the side), straight swap.

Guys, check this out. Its already been done!! Well ok for the 510 but I believe we share the same wheel setttings. http://kmhafer.homestead.com/files/wheelFAQ.htm#Deciphering%20Tire%20Sidewalls

Not sure if this has already been seen or not. But here's a video clip of a seriously modded 240Z on the track, where its clearly outrunning the competition! :classic: I've been told that the 240Z is Greg Duprees, not certain though, it has a 300zx TT engine in it. Enjoy! http://www.opentracking.com/240ZvsZ06.mpg

I could do with her helping me polish the Z, all she needs to do is jiggle them along the body work and my Z will be gleaming! Give her a lift home and ask her to do the jiggle and then my dash and windscreen gets done too!!:classic: Mike. have you got any left??

If you dont have a heat gun you can use a hair drier, it will be safer i think.

If I do go for the 6 to 1 header and twice pipes am i actually gonna lose power?:sleepy: I havent moded my engine at all, it is a stock L28 with FI. I've heard that the header is one of the first things to do when you are climbing the upgrade ladder but if I immediately go for twice pipes have i jumped a few runs?? Should I wait until i have upgraded the engine a little? This is all stemming from something I read which said that Twice pipes and Headers can actually reduce power on a stock motor. How true is this?? And why?? :stupid: Thanks!!!!! :classic: