Ben

James - you suck....

I've often frequented the RockyAuto site over the years & there's always plenty of nice machinery for sale (drool)!

I had Steve Lamb's e-mail address - he may be subscribed to this forum. Gav, can you help?

It can be done - some of the lads in Melbourne have done it. My initial suggestion would be to disassemble both diffs & look for visual indicators.

I've taken L4, L6, FJ & SR engine blocks to the local workshop in the back of dad's 510 (4-door of course!). We took the seat squab out & put a wooden board in its place, wrapped a few seabelts around it. Yes it's bloody hard to get them in & out - I can't imagine doing it with a complete engine. And curses to mum who had the only car in the family with a towbar at the time.....

I know the seller personally, and have spoken to him about this scenario. Based on that I can say a couple of things:

There was a stuff-up in payment timings which resulted in the seller being out of the country before the goods were paid for, and hence they were not shipped.

(I suspected that this was the case & stated this in the OzDat forums.)

The seller was not pro-active in rectifying the situation after returning to Australia. He took too long to sort out the fact that he had received payment & then ship the goods.

I'm of the impression that both parties were at fault, but the seller should have sorted it out ASAP.

I don't believe that the scenario warrants a complete 'steer-clear' of the seller, let the e-bay feedback speak for itself. AND DON'T BID ON THE PARTS I'M AFTER!!!!

The '76 runs a mechanical dizzy.

The '81-82 run a CAS off the crank pulley.

The '83 runs a fully electronic optical dizzy.

They all use different ECU's and the latter 2 have ECU controlled timing.

Agreed, Screw-Ons, Well Suck !

Try and find the wire that goes to the coil. If there is that much of the loom left. Looking back to the ECU is probably going to do your head in !!! Are the Coil Balist Resistors in this configuration? What it an Automatic or Manual?

Steady guys!

The 'screw-on' dizzys are fully electronic optical units. HIGHLY desirable for high-performance motors, as they talk directly to all aftermarket ECU's. You can also fit the Z31 pickup/chopper wheel to get a proper home trigger in addition to the 360+6 setup.

I searched for one of these for ages before getting one from a 280ZXT in the US via e-bay.

I'm sure I could find several buyers for ECCS L-series (C211 Turbo, HR30 Turbo) distributors without too much trouble at all!

I've had my 3N71B modified - but it was all custom work. Bear in mind that the gearbox is also used by Mazda & Toyota, so I imagine that the Rotary drag boys would probably have spent a bit of time working on upgrades.

Don't forget the biggest size in F8's!

F:F815-75 +8.5

R:F815-80 +7

(speaking of which - just got my set of 16x7 & 16x7.5 F8's for my DR30. Now I need to buy some 235/45/16 tyres!)

Check out the Series 2 910 Bluebird (~1983-84) for a nice internally reg'd Bosch unit.

Also, make sure that the nose of your crank isn't damaged.

You can fit alternative compnents into your L24 block in accordance with ADR's and end up with 2.8L. Same with carburettion - the car will still comply with ADR26 with tripple Mikuni's, extractors & a modified head. Doing this to a 260Z (ADR27) though is a different matter....

When I planned on legalising my L28ET into R30 Skyline swap, it required engineering, but the conversion I'm doing now - RB30E just needs an engine change notification.

The L28ET into 240Z was an inspection matter (as I've previously discussed).

Another thing in your favour is the availability of the correct engine for your car, finding a replacement 240Z-spec L24 iss almost impossible, but an L28 is easy to find.

Originally posted by Nick H

Hi Gavin,

Yes that's the same Win. A very talented driver whose career took off when he won the 1974 Blue Circle Modsports Championship in Big Sam against heavy opposition--like Nick Faure with a works sponsored Porsche 911 Carrera. After that Toyota, Jaguar and others hired Win and he competed at Le Mans and the World Sportscar Chapionships. He was still a very competative driver up until his operation being asked to drive many different cars from Sam to D type Jaguars.

Nick

Indeed it is the same Win who used to scream around Bathurst in the old 'Group A' days. A lovely gentleman, I was fortunate to have a brief chat with him at the 2002 Classic Adelaide & got him to autograph the preface of my copy of Brian Longs' book. He still loves his Z's - which isn't surprising since he kept breaking the Sunbeams & Jaguars he was rallying in here in Adelaide! He ended up driving in a Robnell Cobra after his D-Type developed a death rattle....

I was very shocked to read about the surgical complications.

Nick, you'll have to strap him into the passenger seat of Sam & get some 'expert' driver training!

Local wrecker - most can't give them away, they're that reliable....

I haven't read the article (yet) but I do know that the car almost went to the crusher (it was that rusty). It has about $100k invested in it, and when it was in Adelaide a last year for the Datsun 1600 nationals, it was one of the most beautiful examples of a Z to behold. His son's 510 isn't too shabby either with its S13 drivetrain, rear suspension,and all, Silvia interior & air-conditioning.

Not for the purists, but engineering feats all the same.

I shall post my opinion of the article in due course! :classic:

RB30+RB25 = http://users.esc.net.au/~cobra30/

(I work with Rowan).

I'm in the process of converting my old MR30 4-door (formerly powered by an L28ET) to RB30E. It's early days (like about 3 days into the planning stage!), but it seems that fitting an RB into a 'front sump-bowl' L-series 6 engine bay is almost a bolt in job. I'm hoping to go a step further & fit the R31 crossmember, complete with power R&P steering - the chassis rails are the same distance apart, the control arms are the same width & the depth of the crossmember is also about the same. Within the next fortnight I hope to have the front suspension removed in order to determine if this is indeed a viable option.

And RB30E is going to cost me about $300, with 130,000km on the clock.... And I'm after the low-down that the 3-litre provides. Plus I'm going to fit a 4.375 R200 LSD :classic:

Originally posted by HKSZ

Does anyone know the Gross hp nissan plated to the 280C (single carb) or the 280ZX fi ?

Just wondering because if I was to register a 240Z with a L 28 at Vic Roads will they make me get an engineers report because of the 10% capacity increase rule.

Steve

What about the fact that the same chassis/brakes/suspension was the home to an EFI L28 from 1975 onwards on other parts of the world? Does that help your cause?

A little digression.....

The owner of the 1800SSS & KGC10 is my contact for the Yahoo! Auctions in Japan. A good friend of mine has just bought a heap of S30 bits via him, including a PS30 10,000rpm tacho. I've picked up an R200LSD & we'll be visiting Melbourne within the next few weeks to pick the gear up.

Everytime I see a full-house domestic S30, C10, or C110 I get more determined to get one & import it myself. Hopefully within the next year my gf will decide that a KPGC110 replica is her car of choice. A GT-R would be lovely, but spares for the S20 around here are a bit of an issue. Apart from that, I now appreciate how damn complicated that engine is, after reading some of Alan's posts & then looking in the PS30 parts data that I've got - Yikes!

The turbo bolts are the only ones that you can buy. Courtesy Nissan have a special running: http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=CP&Product_Code=P7600-KIT

$49.74USD.

Washers are extra, but are not essential.

The MSD 6A series have a male spade connector on the end that is the tacho ouput signal connector. It's a high impedance, low voltage/current square-wave output. There's more infor in the user manual (which is available at http://www.msdignition.com/)

DO NOT hook up the tacho to anything that even looks like it connects to the coil!

Originally posted by Z-point

Hè Benny boys,

Ben, if can’t open the page how do you know what kind of car it is? here is a picture of the MC Datsun of Toni Fall and it sure isn’t the same as the EAS Datsun.

From memory there were 2 240Z's in the EAS, one of which had a lot of works, or work replica parts on them (and broke an axle) and the other went on to win the event. I suspected that the MC Z may have been the same car as the drop-down front bumpers are very rare.

Kats, you're a legend :classic:

This information is very valuable, but whether is closes arguements or starts more who knows!

It certainly sounds like the first cars were not available until the last days of 1969 at the earliest - and they would have to be domestic models, exports could not have got much further than the shipping terminal.

Originally posted by Brett240

Hi Ben,

just put an MSD 6A into mine on the wekeend. how do you modify the tach to make it work??

I don't know the specifics, I just take the tacho into a gauge workshop & tell them to modify it to suit the square wave output of the MSD rpm signal.

~$100AUD later, it's done, calibrated & ready to use!

Had 2 of my 6-cyl tacho's done so far, one in my MR30 & the other my original 240Z unit.

Souds like the same car that was entered in the East African Safari last year.

ok, ok :classic:

So my clock has been sitting on a shelf for the last 5 years as it's place in the dash is home to my oil-temp guage & I've forgotten the brand.