Ben

Check out the trading post each week & be patient. Also be prepared to pay for what you want.

Although not nearly appreciated enough in Europe, the 510 is THE cult car in Australia. But I don't think that many Aussie's realise how successful they were in the US & Japan on the track/dirt. We get to see a lot of the magnificent machinery that the Japanese manufacturers produce, but only on the 2nd-hand market. Part of this is due to the mechanical robustness that is required for a car to be successful in Australia. Nissan spent millions toughening up the R31 Skyline & developing a whole new powerplant to make is suitable for Australian conditions. And when things started going downhill in the early '90's (they pulled out of local manufacture & went to 100% imported) they couldn't really justify doing the same thing with the R32 platform. The other issue is the fact that the Australian market is built on low-revving V8's & sixes that have to have a large towing capacity. But I digress, & this is a very interesting thread.

What he said :classic: There is also the 200ZX & 200ZR, the former being VG20E(T) powered & the latter being RB20DET powered (was there an NA 200ZR?) I believe that the 200ZR was also limited run car, but the 200ZX was more common than the 300ZX

If everything measures up ok, there is no real benefit to spending the $$$ for new slugs, except for the fact that you can say that they are new. I bought my un-touched L28E engine with 220,000 km on the clock, tore it down, had it honed & put fresh 'consumables' through it (rings bearings, gallery plugs etc). It's done 300,000 km's now and 70,000 of them have been with the T3 forcing things through a little harder than stock... This engine is a N42 combo (8.39:1 compression) running 6psi boost & producing ~220BHP. It is fed good fuel (98RON), synthetic oil (Mobil 1 every 5,000km), Genuine coolant & clean air (Finer filter) & I expect it to last a long time yet. Long live stock pistons

The specs are the same across the board. Frank Honsowetz (How to Modify Your Nissan & Datsun OHC Engine - Nissan # 9996-M8012) states that as a rule of thumb use 0.005" per inch of bore on #1 compression ring & 0.004" per inch on #2 compression. Oil is not critical - 0.010"-0.040" is ok. This gives most engines (avg 3.4" bore) 0.017" on #1 & 0.014" on #2. Bearing in mind that 0.001" bore taper will change the ring gap by 0.003" through its travel. Incidentally, this is an easy way to roughly measure the bore taper - measure the gap @ TDC & BDC & div by 3. You should also get a copy of the Tom Monroe 'How to Rebuild Your Nissan/Datsun OHC Engine' (HP Books) (Nissan #99996-M8013)

Originally posted on zdriver.com just a few minutes ago (sorry Mike:tapemouth).... I have just returned home from my monthy 'Nissan SVD owners Club' meeting (http://www.svd.asn.au), and it appears that there have been a number of enquires from owners of Prince Skylines, 260Z's, 1200's etc. regarding joining the club. The documented 'cut-off date' for eligibility for membership was previously 1982 (in order to allow the entry of early R30 Skylines, like mine). However it has been unanimously decided (by an official vote), that the club will accept membership applications from owners of any 'Special Interest' Prince, Datsun or Nissan car. Cars must be well presented, especially if they are to be displayed at shows, or used in competition events.The club is CAMS affiliated, with approximately 60 financial members and events are held on a regular basis. There is also a strict focus on professionalism at all times. More more infomation, post on this thread, send a private message or e-mail me (if you know my address). I hope to see some of you at the next members meeting (details on the web site)!!!

Let me clarify what I meant with the'10psi' comment... The ceramic-turbine T3 should be able to run at ~15psi all day with no problems. But my point is that the efficiency of the turbo would be quite poor at this pressure ratio. A larger compressor & turbine modifications should see the discharge temperature & rpms lower for the same flow rate/pressure ratio. I have seen many examples of a better turbo producing more power at a lower pressure ratio. Especially when we are talking about stock units working real hard to maintain the boost desired.

The rear demister was a factory option. All cars have the wiring & all consoles have the boss for the switch.

You won't know if the current diff is worth rebuilding util you remove the rear cover. If it's just bearings then it can be fixed, but if it's worn through the hardening on the gears then it's another story. If you can take photo's of it (assuming that your problem is the diff....) & post them a better assessment can be made. Based on your description, I wouldn't trust the current diff down main Nth Rd in peak hour... Let me tell a story.... :classic: My '82 MR30 Skyline runs a L28ET engine, 6psi boost ~220HP. The gearbox (at the time) was a beefed-up 3N71B (factory Auto - soon to be re-fitted, along with the engine, into my 240Z for a while...). Diff was the stock, open, 3.90:1 R180. I'd run this combo for ~18 months, no issues at all. No burnouts, but wheelspin would occur on full-throttle shifts. It's around 35 deg C, summer, mid afternoon.... I was gently accelerating from a standstill @ Days Road/South road (heading North). I'd barely got the engine to 1500rpm (car was just moving) and there was a little 'crack' & I lost all drive. Inspection revealed that the tailshaft was spinning, but the diff wasn't functioning - at all.... After removing the diff, it was apparent that there was a tooth missing from one of the spider gears (must've broken off before I bought the car, as it wasn't in the bottom of the diff). I'd loaded the diff up at this point & then split both spiders into many pieces, taking chunks from the carrier & crownwheel. The diff was completely lunched. No burnout, no 'bang'..... The moral to this story - if it's gonna let go, it'll do it a the time you least expect it, and in the most inconvenient place.

I take it you mean 3.36, as there isn't a 3.28.

I wouldn't run the stock turbo above 10psi. Get a T4 compressor & back-cut the turbine if you want more flow. 4-500HP is very doable, contact Jim-Wolf (California) or Malvern Racing (Virginia)for some workshop info.

It looks good except that hit refers to the square-top carburettors & late emmisions system. All Australian 240Z's had round tops & PCV only (no smog-pump, throttle dampers etc).

If you want someone to have a look at your diff (if you have to take it out). Contact Dave Meaker @ Mitsi-Bits (Lonsdale). I've known him for many years via the Club-Car circuit & he's rebuilt both my R200 LSD's (and plenty of H190's, Supra diffs, Mazda diffs etc). Years ago he worked for Bill Hanson. Tell him I sent you.

try http://www.zzxdatsun.com

A brief one - I'm running late! 4-cylinder (standard block height) L13 L16 L18 tall block L20B super tall block LZ22 LZ24 6-cyl (standard height) L20A L24 L26 L28 tall block LD28 (and some other diesels too, I think) bring on the scones :classic:

Yet another Adelaide member. It appears we're everywhere... Do I need to explain my nick? My avatar is my car (well it's progressed a bit further since then, but not much). I know, lame, but I have to concentrate on fixing my Zed, not making up a fancy nick!

Alan T is right, The Euro & Aussie cars were pretty much HS30-L's. optional fog lights, front spoiler & demister, standard fitment was 5-speed, AM/FM radio (optional 8-track), carpet etc. Nissan Australia referred to the 240Z as the 'Datsun 240Z Sports' And in regard to the 2000GT/Z432 thread, I've already done some investigating re: locating one in Aus & it doesn't look too good. If I had a spare $130K AUD, I could buy a restored Z432 (not 'R') from one of many in dealerships in Japan. See http://www.rockyauto.co.jp for some fine examples. Some of the interesting mods on the 432-R are the perspex windows & full magnesium wheels, not to mention the extra ground clearance (about 20mm I think). I don't care if it isn't as fast as an L28 S30, I still want one! One thing we are just about to take delivery of is a 1965 Fairlady 1500 Roadster (only 125 were originally sold in the country). It's on a truck from Sydney as we speak...

The 'ex' Zoom 'Project Zed Philes' car certainly has the goods when it comes to the mechanicals. You couldn't build it for $18k, but you can insure it for more than $15k. My '73 (see avatar) has no engine/gearbox/interior & is currently insured with Shannons for $15k on a 'laid-up' policy. I have discussed the final agreed value with them & it will be around $30k when it's finished (including salvage rights). I was a little dissapointed in the bodywork on the project car though - its was a respray job (not a restoration), the rails/floor look pretty average (as does the engine bay). You can also bet your $18k that it has been used to it's fullest potential by the Zoom team. Afterall the build $$$ came from more than one individuals wallet. And you saw how the project Excel (Accent) went up in smoke after 15psi of supercharger was applied... Another thing is that everyone who has read the mag would know the car - and all it's details. It _could_ be a theft target, but hey, you're in Sydney & everyone steals WRX's there . I'm not suggesting a 'steer-clear', but I'd want a close look at the car to make sure that it is worth the sum of it's parts. You can get a Z32TT for the same $$$, but you would probably have to spend a few grand to get it up to scratch. If you do buy it, I ain't challenging you to a traffic-light drag until my L31TT is finished...

It's taken me several visits just to read all of the posts in this thread!! Now that's done, I'll add my bit. My dad has already given a brief introduction, and it's his fault that I'm stuck spending all my disposable income on my Datsuns I'm 25, not married (can't afford it - too many cars), but not single. I'm an IT Consultant & live in Adelaide, South Australia. My '73 240Z was my first car - purchased in early 1996. Since then, it's gone completely out of control. The full restoration will get completed one-day soon (it's been 3-years so far). In the meantime, I've bought another '73 (the one Dad's currently restoring), 2 R-30 Skylines & a 910 wagon. I'm currently channelling funds towards my newest Skyline, a 1983 DR-30 RS-X Turbo. Once that's painted & brought up-to-scratch, it'll be back to the Zed. To clarify - the Skylines are nice, but they're NOT a 240Z I find it very motivational to participate in sites such as this one. It also keeps the Z cravings at bay - that & the fact that I have friends with Z's.

modified rotary = good hp & short life bridge port rotary = very good hp & very short life. I believe that firewall/tunnel modifications are required to fit a 12A into a 510. I don't expect this to be the case with a S30/S130, but bear in mind that even the 13BT from the SIV & SV RX-7 was only a 200HP motor & had relatively low torque. A 20BTT from a Cosmo would be another matter.....