Ben

:surprised sensational!!!!

The mention of the use of Option boxes in Aussie 260Z's is incorrect. However I believe that there was a large number of CROD boxes used, as mentioned above. And due to the closeness of the gears, a number of people believed that they were true Option boxes. I have a friend with an Option 3 gearbox behind a Z24 turbo. But the gears are just too close together to be suitable for that application. Heck, you can skip 2nd 3rd & 4th and still get moving quick....

Beautiful.... Pity I can't afford the $700AUD each for a set of 16x7 F8s Watanabe's for my DR30 And then the $650AUD freight cost to get them here. I'll just have to stick with my 15x7 Superlites on my Z & perhaps a set of Gold/chrome Compomotive CXN's on the DR30 instead....

Fill the FS5W©71B gearbox with OS-Giken or Hollinger internals and you won't have any issues with strength.... But you may have an issue with the hip pocket-factor

I know the seller personally (he lives a less than 1km from my place). If anyone wants more images of the wheels or other info, let me know. Pity they're not 15's or 16's though....

The L-series EFI systems are anaolgue. So no replacement chips can be used. The Z31-up ECCS systems are digital & can be modified more readily.

I'm planning on doing the same thing with my rear lights. But since I haven't been able to find a socket yet, I'll probably wire up an isolation circuit that will allow me to turn on the rear lights only. If anyone does find an appropriate OEM bulb socket, I would much appreciate the details! My DR30 Skyline has this feature, it lights up the outboard taillights & the front parkers, as opposed to the European cars which light up one side only (depending on indicator position).

I would expect that it's just many thousands of miles' worth of carbon/fuel deposits on the back of the valve. One of the things that will slowly reduce the total power that you engine makes. A good method of cleaning that kind of buildup away is to use water injection (yes, even on a NA engine). The water will dissolve the deposits in the intake tract & the back of the intake valve. And most importantly, it will steam-clean the piston crown, combustion chamber, exhaust valve/port/manifold of the hardened carbon deposits.

Gav - we want 12MB next time of 3000-7000rpm goodness!

The interior looks pretty damn good!

That sounds like wear in the actual 3-position switch mechanism behind the stalk. AFAIK my car had the same problem when turning right, not sure what I'm going to do about it....

That looks like a CarTech kit to me.

Quite possibly.... I've seen a 308 stuffed into a 910 Bluebird (originally a L20B).

It seems that you may now hold the title of owning the "latest body # Aussie 240Z". Your car body # is over 100 later than my '73. The indicators on the bumper is standard for the '73, in all other respecs it looks the same as a '72.

Double de-clutching is as christoph said: instead of depressing the clutch & changing into the desired gear, you change into neutral, rev to the appropriate point for the next gear and then clutch in, and make the final change. Rev matching is the next-best thing - clutch in, match revs for the next gear/shift clutch out. Double de-clutching is used in gearboxes that have no synchros (crash boxes), and is also used with dog-boxes (which have dog-rings instead of synchros). A dog box must be shifted like you want to break it, or you will break it! Gearboxes with dog-engagement are used in high-power applications where normal synchros would fail. All the Datsun L-series boxes have full synchros on all forward gears (Porsche or Borg-Warner), so double de-clutching should not be required for smooth shifts. Gearboxes with Quaife, Hollinger or OS-Giken gearsets fitted are a different matter....

The turbo manifold from the Patrol won't fit the L series engine. It may fit the RB motors, but why bother? You should fit a larger fuel feed into your existing tank & use the original feed as the EFI return. You will also need a lift-pump, a surge tank & a high-pressure pump. The R180 diff will be just fine, an LSD R200 is the top-model upgrade. Your 260Z may already have an R200 (in which case, you are set). The only thing I recommend is the replacement of all universal joints & a re-balance of the tailshaft. The OEM turbo manifold has larger runners, but the NA manifold will flow plenty. Baz has been in the game for a long time & knows plenty about datto's.

top effort mate!

Not enuf squat on acceleration - more HP required!!!!

Chances are that the EGR plumbing is completely blocked with carbon deposits.... However, if it is functioning 100% correctly, it will not hurt performance at all & will make the engine cleaner at light throttle openings. My FJ20ET has a fully functional EGR system & still goes like a rocket while using 10L/100km. The air-pump is another story & in reality doesn't make the engine any cleaner, it just dilutes the tailpipe emissions. An appropriately sized exhaust leak would have the same effect. On top of that, it sucks HP from the engine & weighs heaps. If at all possible, get rid of it. The easiest way to get away from the air-pump is to fit a L28E to the car.... (the real late model L28E's won't have EGR either)

If it looks stock & you have an ignorant inspector, anything is possible.....

Australian design rules - see http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=7459 for a breakdown :classic:

Damn, I wish that TSA had guidelines like that (defined). If you plan on changing the engine in a car in SA, you need to apply in writing & then you are notified as to the yay/nay &/or engineering requirements. Sammy if you do a search, I posted a few months back with the legal requirements that my car needs to satisfy in order to have an L28ET fitted to it. The reason that it's 100% ok to modify a 240Z L24 with a turbo is that the car doesn't fall into the ADR27 regulation. Cars pre-ADR27 (in SA) can have unrestricted modifications to the engine, providing that they maintain the PCV system. However, ADR-27 engines must maintain OEM cam, intake & emissions specs. ADR-27A engines must maintain OEM internals as well.

Sinisha's 240Z was featured in issue #1 (or was is #2?) of Zoom magazine when it had its 350+HP L28 turbo in it. That was a few years ago now! Australia has a plentiful supply of import Japanese cars & componentry. The last Skyline that was sold in Australia was the R32 GT-R (at $110,000AUD). And before that we had the R31 series ('86-'89), and there are thousands of them on the road (a bloody reliable & good car - even now). Nissan specially developed the RB30E(T) motor for Australia & it was never sold anywhere else - the R31 series came with the RB20(D)E(T) in Japan & NZ. Though it's a pity we didn't get the Turbo HR31 coupe's or pillarless 4-doors here....

Even a crappy head design will flow heaps when "under pressure". But more to the point, the P90 has a better chamber design than the N42, so ideally, use the P90. But a de-compressed N42 combo will still be able to produce 300HP with a correctly sized turbo & proper controls.

Seriously guys, get an N42/N42 combo & fit pistons with a larger dish. It will be easier than finding a genuine L28ET in Australia.