Ben

If you un-plug either the thermotime connector, or the cold-start injector, the car will not be able to inject auxillary fuel when the coolant temperature is under 18 deg C. HOWEVER, if the cold-start injector is leaking, then it will continue to leak. You can harm nothing by unplugging either of these components.

Thanks for making my heart sink a little lower.....

http://www.techbooks.com.au/pg-200.htm

Christmas what? Oh, Shopping! Yes, I suppose I should.... I agree that it was a Sth African special edition, perhaps even a tuning-house effort. They are certainly PB210 coupe shells. Top effort on the speeding fines Chris! Remember Adelaideians - red-light cameras will get you for speeding now too....

Variants were otherwise known as the 140J or Datsun Cherry. The PB210 cas powered with the L14, and also the L16 (160J). It's models like these that make it easy to fit a L20B into a B210 shell, using P610 componentry. Yes it's a B210 coupe.

Sounds like the blow-off valve is leaking at idle. On an air-mass metered engine, you MUST plumb any blow-off valves back into the intake pre-compressor. Else the engine will overfuel BADLY on gear changes & if the valve leaks at idle, the engine will run poorly at all times.

If the Thermotime switch goes OC, the engine will run poorly when cold (and may be hard to start). If it goes short, then the cold-start valve will be always open, making the engine run rich all the time. An easy test is to remove the electrical connector from either the switch, or the cold start valve & check engine behaviour. The drain plug is at the LHS-rear of the engine, under the exhaust manifold. Chances are that it is rusted solid to the block.

Both are plenty strong enough for anything except a full-race engine. It sounds like the shifter bushes have worn in your 5-speed though. You will soon see the problem if you remove the gearstick.

Indeed! The 180B of Aslam Khan was prepared here in Adelaide to compete in PRC next year, but was purchased by Arshad Khan only a few months back & shipped to Kenya. I packed it into the shipping container myself! Preparation was performed by the original owner, but the car hasn't been campaigned in about 8 years. The work performed on it when it got to Kenya included - fitting of roof vent from a WRX, the installation of Proflex suspension and a few other minor mods (extra holes in the sump guard etc). The previous owner (and I!) are stoked that the car was able to complete such an event as the Safari with such little preparatory work performed. He even ran it with the near stock-L18 & SU's! You can see some photo's of the car as we packed it (complete with old livery) at: http://www.versadev.com/ben/sst915

Alan - Thanks, that's what I thought. I get people telling me that my Skyline's a 6-cylinder every day of the week. They claim to know about the marque, but have never heard of a 4-cylinder Skyline. Oh, and on the brake pedal topic - my Skyline has no markings on either pedal.... Gav - Primarily because it's a 6-cylinder engine in 4-cylinder engine bay & things are very tight. Ever tried to work on a RNN14 GTi-R? Well they have HEAPS of room compared to an 'RB' S13/14!

Ripped off! Someone stole my clutch pedal But on my Auto-brake pedal I have..... http://www.versadev.com/ben/hs30/DSC00482.JPG (3512) The 260Z pedal box my Dad will be using has nothing on the Clutch, and 4613 on the Brake. And, just for laughs, here's a shot of the oil-temperature gauge: http://www.versadev.com/ben/hs30/DSC00483.JPG Yup, the dash is in the shade & it's reading 45C Do I win anything?

Hotter engine= more complete burn = more power. But... Hotter engine = more stress on the oil & alloys. In stock trim, the L engine produces the most power around the 200F mark (~95C). I run a 180F (82C) in all my engines, as they are turbocharged & the cooling system tends to get stressed more with the extra thermal load of the turbo (and the chamber temps can be up to 100% higher). Coolant temperature is very important, so is oil temperature. For any serious engine I highly recommend a thermostatically controlled oil cooler & oil temperature guage. Racing an engine with oil temperatures below about 70C is not a healthy thing. I generally see my oil temps hovering around the 85C mark with coolant around the 90C mark. An interesting thing is that it takes about 4km of 60km/h driving for the engine coolant to be at operating temperature, but about 15km before the oil gets thouroughly warmed.

FWIW the Z31 200ZR was fitted with a DOHC inline 6 - the RB20DET NICS. That & the PS30 Z432 were the only DOHC inlines to be factory offered. Of course the is the OS-Giken 24v head for the L engine & the factory LY SOHC cross-flow head, but these were not something were factory offered (Alan, can you confirm that the LY was Works/Sports Option only?) It is highly likely the the S13/S14 previously mentioned was fitted with an RB20DET ECCS (R32/A32 etc) engine, but as I have previously mentioned; the RB-converted Silvias tend to run REAL hot & require major cooling/venting upgrades. Unless you are in Salt Lake city in winter.....

In Australia I think that the 260Z 2+2 will eventually be the rarest of them all. Followed by the 280ZX 2+2. Then the 260Z coupe. Then the 240Z. Then the Z31 2+2. Then the Z32. FWIW

They are adjustable Special D's & are currently on their softest setting. Part numbers (for a 240Z) are: 86-1811 (F) 86-1812 ® One of the reasons that they haven't been adjusted up is that you have to fully compress the piston & then turn - hence removal or the spring is required....

FWIW, my car, 'lowered by Kmac' is 360mm front & rear. Not sure about the spring rate, but I do believe that I'm going to tighted up the Koni's a bit - it feels a little soft for my liking.

I don't thnk that you'll have much luck there... And to add insult to injury, you should replace the tail-light seals too - ~$30 each from Nissan.

There's a red 260Z for sale @ http://www.sportsclassic.com.au/

That is one of the LAST of the 240Z's to arrive in AUS - the engine number is 4000 higher than my car; which was complianced in Aug '73. Very nice, and I bet he get's the $$$ too.

I think that the 'GTX/R' name is implying that the car is a GT-R lookalike GT-X. And yes, the GT-R was first released as a 4-door, which weighed more & was longer. Hence 2 reasons to make the 2-door! Having said that, I have no problems with getting hold of a GT(X) with GT-R flares/spoilers/badges & a 3+l L-series in it.

See the mugshots area - I'm there!

Definately not a 240Z. The radiator support panel is post '75 (it has the drop down lower support & the larger ducting hole for the EFI intake).

Good stuff Brian. It's always good when the fix is cheap & easy!

Expensive - yes. But just look at that engine bay! It is a new car.