Ben

The long-wheelbase coupe & the 4-door were Australian delivered, so parts should be available through your local dealer. I'd expect that they would share parts with the 610 & 260/280C.

WRX's use the R180, Liberty/Legacy's used R160's. Bear in mind that there are many WRX's pumping out 300+ HP throught the factory R180's (or the STi LSD if you've got the $$$). Also remember that the matching of components should be spot on - since Fuji Heavy industries owns Subaru.

I even reckon an L24 head gasket would work. After all the L20A has notches in the bores to allow the valves to clear. The valves would probably be the same as the early L24's too (42mm & 33mm). Don't quote me on that though... I only have an L20A crank, rods & pistons handy, no block or head.

New rockers aren't cheap (~$70 each from memory). Your best bet is to get some 'good' (wear-pattern-wise) ones from a SII Bluebird, or 86-87 Patrol. These cars were the end of the line for the 'L' series & should be the best 'old' rockers you'll find. Expect to use various lash-pad sizes to get everything in spec. The best factory cam is the non-pollution 240Z one (ie the original one). You will find that the later cams have less duration. More importantly, fit the larger valves & radius the ports.

just a little tale on the side.... My clock doesn't work either. BUT when I pulled it apart & just had the motor plugged in to 12V it worked fine. Put it back together, no-go. This fault drove me to replacing it with a boost gauge....:classic:

do you have a bloody wiring diagram? the bloody gauges get power from the bloody ignition fuse the bloody coolant gauge has a 7V regulator in it. good bloody luck!! :classic:

A valid point, but not necessarily true - take the Toyota twin-cam motors from the same era (eg the 2T family) - they were only 2 valves per cylinder. Also, don't forget that the Japanes culture (mixed with the American influence) contrived some quite wierd conventions.

close..... 4 valves 3 carbies 2 cams R for racing

There are a few Prince GT('s around. Actually, it was an inquiry about a Prince owner joining that led the President to propose allowing all older 'Classic' Nissan/Datsun/Prince cars to join. This was moments before I was going to mention that I had Z owners who were interested....:classic: I still said my bit & everone who was there last Friday had a good stare at the 240's when they arrived!!! Alan, you will want to discuss joining with the comittee, they can be contacted via the website, or better yet, at a meeting. Tomorrow night, Directors Hotel, Gouger Street, West Terrace end (opposite the Postal Distribution Centre) @ 7pm.

I'd like to thank Alan & Damian for dropping in last night to the SVD club recruiting display. It was nice to meet you both & have a (quick) look at your cars. If there is any more info you would like feel free to contact me via the forums here or on the SVD club website (my username is the same). I hope to see you guys (and many other Adelaide-based Z owners) in the near future.

Get it on the road.... (it's been 3 1/2 years so far). By the end of Jan: Have all intake/intercooler/exhaust plumbing done (and other hydraulic systems). Feb/March/April: Interior re-trimmed, wiring harness re-loomed, dashboard installed May/June: Get it running, inspected & registered. keeping my fingers crossed....... :nervous:

Z Kid, you're a fool!!!:classic: The early-bird catches the worm.... You should have called about the car on the way out of the shop. People get the Saturday paper & Thursday Trading-Post at 3am in order to call at 6. There is no consideration for the sellers sleep when it comes to the sale of Z-cars in these parts.... The last Z that was purchased by my associates came from Canberra via Sydney. Good luck & I'll keep my eye out for you.

2 things: 1. 180km/h Speedo = Japanese Domestic. 2. Alan, I've found an error in your info (woot!): L20ET - it's not a C210 GT turbo Skyline, so it would have had an L20E (I know - picky, picky... ROFL). I too am willing to bet that it's an ex-servicemans' car. Does it have a CDI ignition & no air-cleaners? Both of these are typical Japanese modifications to these cars.

Have you checked all uni joints? You should also check tailshaft balance - it could have thrown a weight.

I heard that RX-7's had problems with the head completely missing... Sorry, couldn't help myself.... ROFL (christ0ph, the RX-7 has a rotary motor - it has no 'head' as such) Redline, you should have no problems finding a car or info if you're in SoCal.

Try Warren @ all-Z-parts in Sydney http://www.allzparts.com.au Ben

Hi Rob, Where are you?

For those unsure of Seans' reference to Bathurst... In the early 1990's the R32 GT-R was completely dominating the local Touring-Car competition (as did the Ford Sierra Cosworths before it). It was decimating the locally-built cars so much that the rules were changed to make it impossible for it to remain eligible. After the finish of the very wet & collision-ridden Bathurst 1000 in 1992(?), R32 GT-R driver/race winner Mark Skaife, while on the podium & being booed by the Holden/Ford fans, called out to the crowd "You're a pack of arseholes". That line has been remembered by all who have ever had an interest in this class of racing. Mark was the winner of the same race this year (in a Holden Commodore) & the commentators made mention that the crowd reception was much better this time than when he last won....:classic:

The 'accepted' diff installation was 260Z manual coupes had the R200 along with all 2+2's. But I've seen auto's with & manuals without, so who knows. Brit, The R180 uses alloy side plates for the output shafts, it is also noticeably taller than it is wide. Have a bit of a search & you should find photos' of each.

180mm vs 200mm ring gear 2-pinion vs 4-pinion Reasonably tough vs nearly unbreakable. The R200 was introduced with the 260Z (1974). It was used (in the same housing) through to 1989 in various ratios & LSD types. In the US the 300 Turbo's had an clutch-type LSD & the SE Turbo had a viscous LSD. You want the former (clutch type) + mounting hardware from a donor 260/280Z to suit. You should find plenty of info on fitting an R200 via the search feature on this site, zdriver.com, hybridz.org & zhome.com.

Alan, you bring up a very valid point. Even here in Australia, where if you drive an S30 Z you get complimented by everyone you meet (some who had one, some who wished they did) the name Datsun can conjur up some very nasty thoughts; Cedric - great looks 240/260/280/300C - likewise 120Y (B210) - 120 WHY? 200B (810) - the 180B (610) with 20 more problems.... The 'local' early Bluebird (910) - did someone say rust & bad looks? Unfortunately that stigma associated with some of the less successful Datsuns is a problem. At the same time, everyone here knows someone who had a 120Y or 180B & although they hated it at the time, it was the most reliable & somehow satisfying car they've had. For some reason, most people seem to miss the crappy old Datsuns they once owned...:surprised My vote is also with the Sunbeam Tiger. There were several competing in the Classic Adelaide last month - yum PS Please note that the opinions expressed above on 'old Datsuns' are not that of the author, who has friends with very fine examples of both the 120Y & 910 series.

4 grams - I wish!!! I've just fited new OEM 1st OS pistons (flat-tops) to the original L24 that belongs in my '73 & there was 6 grams between the lightest & heaviest _rod_. I ended up weighing all parts & then matching up to get the best balance (some bolts were 8-grams, others were 9-grams). Then I removed material from the rod only. Instead of removing all flashing & then balancing, I just removed the flashing as balancing. Afterall, this was simply an excercise in improvement, not necessarily precision.... The final balance was within 1-gram, not bad for a home effort! (150-grit belt sander & 450-grit wet-n-dry). Apparently the Datsun stuff was well balanced from the factory. So consider the tolerances on less advanced engines...

That's just the thing. I was looking at VL Calais Turbo's back in late '95 (~$20,000AUD worth). A mate of mine pointed out a 260Z in a local yard one day when we were doing the rounds. I made it clear that I wasn't a fan, but would have a 300 Turbo if the price was right. A couple of months later, Dad found a 240Z in another local yard. By then I was getting a little more desperate for transport & the asking price of $5000AUD was something I could pay for in cash. (It was also a car that we decided that we could play with a bit) It was completely stock & original, but had really crap wheels, retreads & a cracked drum (and a heck more as it turns out - found over many years). The deal went through providing they fixed the brakes. Once the bank balance had recovered, it was shod in 15x7 Superlites, Koni/Kmac/Nolathane & 4x4 Hilux brakes. Within 6-months the engine was rebuilt (did I say it had a thirst for water?) & a year after that, it had a custom TO4 kit made up. 2 years later I decided that the rust was beginning to get unsightly (bubbles on the doors etc). So in March 1999 it was completely stripped. I hope to have an engine in it (L28ET) by the end of the year!!! I'll have a look at that web page, but I spend a lot of time with the Nissan SVD owners club already, when I could re-building the Z :classic:

Rather than say what madels were Japan only, I'll say that the Z31 300ZX 2by2 NA & Turbo were the only Australian delivered models.... There are a few of the 200Z(X)®'s kicking around, but not many. I've never seen a 300ZR on the road here in Aus. Also, we only got the Z32 300ZX 2by2 NA, all the TT's 2-seaters & convertibles are imports.