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montoya_fan01

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Posts posted by montoya_fan01


  1. Hey man, just thought you might want to know. The Mallory Distributor you are selling is described as a dual points distributor, but your ebay indicates it's like a Mallory that recently sold for over $300. The one that sold for over $300 (linked in your ad) was a Mallory Unilite distributor which is an Electronic Distrutor that does not have points at all. Comparing Apples to Oranges my friend.


  2. In the listing the owner goes on about the green color and how it was manufactured on St. Patrick's Day in 1970 and that it cost $5,442.00 with emphasis on the "442" part of the purchase price. He also mentions that "objectively" the car was worth aprroximately $350k, so the $201K didn't meet the reserve. He should take the car to Scottsdale next January and enter it into the B-J Auction....maybe someone there will pay what he's looking for.

    I agree.

    I'd be contacting Keith Jackson at B-J right away to make arrangements for the car to hit the auction block in January 07. That's where the heavy hitters w/ big bux will be.


  3. Montoya, you are in fact correct. I always thought the first measurement was the bolt head size. But after doing a little research, I see that I misunderstood the notation of fastener sizes. Thanks for the correction. And I didn't think you were ragging on me. I seldom take anything personally. Life is way too short for that. :D

    http://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-information/Default.aspx

    Enigma:

    You are certainly not the first one to be confused (I may have been). I do admit that it is a bit confusing in that most of us (including me) when working on our cars DO think of bolt size in relation to the wrench we use on them.

    The first time I was buying bolts to replace my oil pan bolts, and intake, exhaust bolts/studs and nuts I got a bit of an education from the salesperson at Lawson products. www.lawsonproducts.com

    Tom:

    Lawson has hardware spec'd by shaft diameter, thread pitch, length, and they also indicate head size. It took me some time to go through their info thoroughly and find what I was looking for, which was the identical size (completely) that came standard on my car even though I could not find the hardware in the gold cad, or yellow zinc (whatever) that Datsun/Nissan used. It was also a pain to order through them because they generally sell only to wholesalers and I had to get "approved" by the regional sales staff before they would accept my order.


  4. Actually, most bolt shaft diameters DO coincide with the head size in that there is a standard ratio that is normally used. That is not to say that there are not exceptions, but they would be just that. :P

    First of all I wasn't trying to rag on you, but instead to clarify your statement about "M12" for the benefit of anyone who might need to buy a bolt/nut.

    Your statement quoted above is semi-accurate.

    A bolt with an 8mm shaft dia is not called a M12 just because a 12mm wrench is used on it, and the reason is because hexhead sizes DO vary.

    FWIW, a standard 8mm bolt/nut has a 13mm hex head, an 8mm JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) bolt/nut, the type of bolt used on a Datsun, would have a 12mm hex head.

    Thus size is stated in terms of the dimension that DOES NOT vary.

    If someone goes to the store and buys a bolt/nut in the size you posted (M12 x 1.25 x 25mm), what they come home with will NOT fit the application we are discussing. If you order a M12 x 1.25 x 25mm bolt, you would get a bolt with a shaft diameter of 12mm. It's as simple as that.


  5. M8 sounds a bit small for a part taking on so much stress unless you have 4 per side. Just to be clear, my bolts are M12(head) x 1.25(thread pitch) x 20mm (length) CL8(strength) Hex Bolt and there are two per side. VicBrit show the same part for 240, 260 & 280Z's.

    Sounds like yours may have been replaced at some point. Hopefully the thread or shaft diameter is the same as normal M12 or this may be your problem. It's even possible someone replaced them with non-metric parts or had to re-thread the hole. Many sway bar mounting brackets come with 1/2" bolts. I found a 1/2" bolt used for one of my motor mounts rather than the usual M12 x 1.25 x 25mm(I think).

    Check if the other working bolts fit properly in the problem mounting point. If so just pick up a matching one at the HW store. If not, you may need to clean up the threads with a an appropriate tap. Sorry, you;re simply gonna have to get under the car ;)

    This is confusing the issue of the bolt size..

    Metric (actually ALL) bolts are not sized by the size wrench that is used on the hex head. Bolt size is related in diameter of the shaft, then thread pitch, then length of the shaft.

    The bolts that secure the mount bushings on a 240z front anti-rollbar are M8 x 1.25 x ~ 20mm. I would suspect it would be the same on a 280, but I have never checked.

    Tom: If the threads on the bolt don't appear stripped but don't tighten up when threaded into the captive nuts in the frame rails, then it is probably the captive nuts that are damaged/defective.


  6. hi

    you could always take to a panel shop that has an chassis alignment

    machine if you really want to find out the axact measurements

    do not know how much they would charge but it would put your mind at ease

    robert

    If I was really interested in knowing the condition of the chassis, this is the only way I'd trust to confirm status of the car in question.


  7. I believe that the "standard" OEM mounting was with the 2 spacers used between the seat runners and the cross-member, and the two spacers stored below were intended to be moved above the cross member to raise the seat higher if needed.

    Seat mount bolt size is 8mm x 1.25, with an 8mm JIS nut which requires a 12mm hex wrench.

    Bolts are sized by diameter of threaded portion and thread pitch, then length of bolt. example: 8mm x 1.25 x 25mm The hex size is not used to identify the size of a bolt or nut.

    The OEM size of the nut for this bolt would be: 8mm x1.25 and would use a Japanese Industrial Standard (JIS) nut for which you would use a 12mm wrench. It is hard to find this nut in the USA unless you order from the dealer, most of the time at a hardware store you would find a 13mm hex on an 8mm x 1.25 bolt/nut. It will work fine but it's not the "correct" OEM size.


  8. the 240zs I've bought from original owners (71 - 73) came with 4 spacers per seat mount bolt. 2 used between seat mount and cross-member and 2 stored on the bolt below the cross-member. when I go to pick n pull yards there are usually at least a few sitting on the floor pan of every Z in the yard.


  9. Thanks for the help. The part that came loose was because the rubber inside of it wore off, no damaged crank shaft or anything. I talked to a z world guy about the pulley. My car had the dealer installed AC, so they had a different pulley put on. They guy told me to just go with the two belt pulley and leave off the compressor and the air pump. The radiator fan, water pump and alternator would be on the 2 belt pulley. He recommended me just buy a new one because if I get one out of a junker, the same problem will happen later. Does anyone know any someone besides MSA that sells new ones because it is about $224 for theirs.

    There are several threeads about this. Use the CZCC search box & type in 'damperdoc'. That should get you to a thread with links to the other threads that have useful information about this issue.

    NOTE: The link to the damperdoc URL listed in the thread is no longer valid.

    You can go directly to THIS WEBSITE and click on "Harmonic Balancers".

    FWIW, the dealer won't give you a 3 YR Warranty like Damper Doctor will.


  10. Speaking of color, I picked up a little promo brochure of the 1970 line of Datsuns. it has a pic of a 240-Z that is light, robins egg blue. I have never seen this color in picture or real life before. Anybody else know anything more??

    Is that the same colour as v12horse's 260Z (in his gallery)?

    Do you have a scan of your brochure? That would be an interesting thing to see after all theses years.


  11. Appliance, Western, Shelby, Anson, and Cragar were large companies in the USA that manufactured wheels (including 5-slots sized for 240z's) IN the USA, mostly in CA, which was where the the aftermarket wheel industy was centered for a variety of reasons back in the 70's. There may have been others that I don't know of.

    I'll take Alan at his word since I know nothing of Japans wheel production capabilities. However, in the decade of the 70's, the USA (also?) became an aluminum wheel producing powerhouse.

    The above mentioned companies had manufacturing plants in Southern CA, and in addition to their own brands, could be contracted to produce private label wheels for retailers such as "Wholesale Distributors" or "WD" which was a large chain of Tire/Wheel/Speed Equipment Stores throughout the West Coast (USA).


  12. Anyone have a pic of where to wedge this? I haven't taken that part off yet, but I'm guessing wedge the wedge between the side of the chain/sprocket and engine block?

    Straight down the timing cover onto the top of the crankshaft gear so the chain is on either side of the wedge.

    PS, I think you need a shop manual before you do this job. It will show you things like this and give you torque specs and other helpful information.

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