panchovisa

Bambi, aren't there two "ears" on the thrust bearing collar? Maybe fork got bumped during installation and came undone from "ears" (collar rotated). This could also cause spring clip to come undone from pivot ball (I think from no resistence at end of fork opposite slave cylinder?). I'd drop the slave cylinder and pull boot from fork and have a good look. Maybe possible to re-engage fork to "ears" and spring clip to pivot without dropping trany. Good to have a look see anyway before pulling gearbox.

I think you will have to crawl inside and remove plastic piece that covers inside back of boot (trunk?). A couple of screws (maybe none), and push the center pins thru plastic rivits. Panel will pull out and you should have access to latch strike. Remove two bolts and bingo your in. Find the plastic center pins from rivits, you'll need them again to put it back together.

My favorite story was the one years ago about the guy that showed up in the ER with two 2" staples in his marble bag. When asked how they got there, the patient explained that while pleasuring himself on a belt sander (wonder what grit feels best?) his marble sack got caught and splilled his marbles on the floor. The stapler was near by and he thought it should work to retain the collected marbles.

Scrapers made from old files work great where you can't reach with your fingers. Triangle files can be ground on fine bench grinder wheel to almost any shape. Dip file in kerosene to lubricate file so as not to gall surface. The edges of the file must be burr free, use a stone to slick off burrs. Use the files before wasting your finger tips on the sandpaper. Cotton wheels (stack two together) on your bench grinder with various rouge compounds work wonders after good sanding. Polishes up so nice your new raw fingerprints will actually scratch surface. First (and last) valve cover I polished took about 40 hours. I sold it for 600 bucks. The guy who bought it ruined it with wrench scratches and wipe downs with filty grease rags full of road grit within a week.

khughes, You will not be able to weld a new caliper bracket to the axel housing. The housing is ductil iron and is not weldable. It can be brazed, but I wouldn't trust brazing for critical application like brakes. Plus you would probably want to heat housing in oven before brazing, this would not be good for bearings (you didn't want to disassemble axel) and definately not good for silver solder joint where strut tube meets housing (will come apart). Stick to bolt on caliper adapters.

Hope the ideas are more lucid that what you have shared here. Like most of your ideas it requires someone else to make it happen. I'm sure they have people that can read and understand any real plans you show them. Market analisys from "Ark #2" I'm not so sure of.

Point people are making is "WE" don't need or want this, YOU do. So get going on it, you said you have worked on it for a long time, take your plans to B&M and tell them about how many automatic owners want to be stick shifty wannabes. PS It was dog leg, not log leg.

Just put a shift knob on your autostick marked R,1,2,3,4,5. And add an astheticaly pleasing fake gate on the console. Nobody except a passenger (and you) will know its not a real 5 speed. Fits your requirements for functional and asthetic. People might wonder why you park with your car in "2nd" though.

I've never taken apart a tranny either. With that in mind, my understanding is that syncros are meant to "crash" and capture opposing gears to somewhat match the rotation of each gear and also to align "peak" of one gear with "valley" of the other. Syncros are designed to accept the "crash" which the actual gears are not. I have driven several cars with bad syncros and they can be shifted without grinding gears, but you must give gears time to slow down first and you must shift the lever slowly to mesh gears. Not fun, but can be done.

P-N-R-D-D2-L Might need a dog-leg pattern at least, no go on H pattern.

[quote name= but I'd like to see an H-gate (4 spd pattern) shifter for the auto trans people! Since the S30 is THE MOST POPULAR SPORTS CAR IN THE U.S.' date=' they should design an auto trans shifter. They had one in the late 80s, so why not redesign it for modern cars?? But how many of the most popular sports cars in the U.S. had automatics? How would they redesign it for "modern" 35 year old Z's (was more modern than the Z back in the 80's). Better luck finding an 80's model slide-o-matic at a swap meet/ebay/pick-n-pull. Can't see how they could improve on stock manual shifter.

Didn't mean to be cryptic, its just that its WAY below zero here (high about minus 38C) and I'm not crazy enough to go out in my unheated garage to measure my struts. Sorry.

Pull your caliper off. Measure diameter of your brake disk. Measusure tangent from edge of disk to center of mounting holes. 1/2 disk dia. minus tangent measurement equals "r" on your drawing. Find both "r" dimensions (probably the same) and use trig to find angle(a+. Don't think individual angles "a" and "b" that important because caliper doesn't care if it's mounted behind, in front, on top, or underneath just so long as bleed screw is highest part of caliper.

Though the flat tops are not very popular try to correct the problem before switching to round tops. Sounds like fuel starvation. New fuel filter, check fuel lines for crud. Check fuel pump for flow ( pull line, add extra hose length, pump fuel into gas can). I've never had flat tops so someone else can help with adjusting those.

I bought a 100 of the real rivits last summer. No problem getting them and they were 78 cents each.

I don't think this will hurt anything. All that has happened is that the urethane has deformed slightly, the "excess" material is now longer than planned. The M-bar is now probably hanging slightly lower than before. The universal joints (2 halfshaft + driveshaft) should be able to accept this bit of misalignment.

Catch cans are a good way to go. Was going to post a picture of my set up, but Carl's last picture link was my car. I used an old rear window washer bottle from a BMW (free at junkyard). I have just changed to ITG air cleaners so the float bowl fuel vent lines will be tee'd together with the vent also going to my catch can (puke tank). The differential and transmission breathers will also be vented to tank. The tank has a drain on the bottom to a rubber hose pluged with a bolt and tie wrap for periodic draining at oil change time. I used all braided lines, but plain rubber hose would work just fine.

Thats just the General's new 8 passenger front wheel design at the proving grounds. It's aimed at the ricer crowd with large families.

26thZ, I'm with you. Rick Bolus come back and talk to us. Better yet post some old pictures so the young guys learn something:) Bolus and Snopes, haven't heard that for quite a while. 26thZ and I must be the old timers here.

Good tip mperdue! Besides you don't want to wrestle with them after a full coat of that special gorilla snot lube.